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Possible solution to wood rot

Freep
Explorer
Explorer
The constant enemy of campers is water and the resulting wood rot. I've read here of people having water damage to their campers even when it is only a few years old. Even though many manufacturers use aluminum framing now, a great deal of the internal construction is still wood, leaving you with a potential of severe structural compromise when water gets in.

Has anyone done a rebuild using composite material? It seems to me that this would be a great way to have some peace of mind to protect against rot. I'd be happy to pay a manufacturer a little more to use composite rather than wood.

What do you think? Am I crazy?
2014 Lance 992
2014 Ram 3500 DRW Turbo diesel
51 REPLIES 51

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Like said before, such constructions exist for long time.
This one is 45 years old.
Can you spot dryrot on it?

Freep
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1 wrote:
I would raise (pedestal) the area of the penetrations 1 to 2 inches. The pedestals would be molded in. The flanges of the penetrations would be about 2 inches wider than the item fitted to the penetrations. For example, the standard opening for vents and A/Cs is 14 inches. I would make a pedestal 18" by 1 or 2 inches high. With the raised pedestal, it is very unlikely you would have a leak at that point.

Wayne


That's clever. You could do something similar with solar panel mounts. Protrusions for the screws(or bolts) to go into that will never completely penetrate the skin(as long as you use the right length screws).
2014 Lance 992
2014 Ram 3500 DRW Turbo diesel

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
HMS Beagle wrote:
... Then be very careful about the roof penetrations - how many and how treated.
I would raise (pedestal) the area of the penetrations 1 to 2 inches. The pedestals would be molded in. The flanges of the penetrations would be about 2 inches wider than the item fitted to the penetrations. For example, the standard opening for vents and A/Cs is 14 inches. I would make a pedestal 18" by 1 or 2 inches high. With the raised pedestal, it is very unlikely you would have a leak at that point.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
narcodog wrote:

You are partially correct but a two foot square that will be painted should not pose any hazard. I did a search an found that the newer treated wood can be used in playhouses with exceptions.

I hope you are right. Treated wood did not hold the paint well, but new technology surprise me every day.

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Even 1-piece molded shell will leak if you don't put good sealant around the vents and windows.
I think the main issue is non-existing quality control on the units.
I am pretty sure that if you do leak test on brand new camper, you will find lot to desire.
Look at the aluminium frame topic. Those things are mounted with "bubble gum" (trying not to use not-allowed words on the forum) welds.

HMS_Beagle
Explorer
Explorer
If you have to "stick build" a camper, the use of composite structural panels would be best, as many custom expedition type units have done. To keep the water out though, you can't do better than the Bigfoot or NL campers, with a one piece fiberglass top overlapping a one piece fiberglass bottom. In truth you could execute it better than they do, but the concept is as watertight as you will find. Anything built of panels will have a hundred feet or more of seam that it prone to leak.

If I was doing a custom I would laminate a composite shell, outer skin - structural foam - inner skin in two halves and then bond and tab it together. This could be watertight and airtight. Then be very careful about the roof penetrations - how many and how treated.
Bigfoot 10.4E, 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 2WD, Autoflex Ultra Air Ride rear suspension, Hellwig Bigwig sway bars front and rear

narcodog
Explorer II
Explorer II
Kayteg1 wrote:
Treated plywood not supposed to be used indoor.
The chemicals can be harmful to people.
I would get marine-grade plywood, or try to find piece at HD with minimal voids (look at the edge how center wood looks like) and no cracks or spackling.

You are partially correct but a two foot square that will be painted should not pose any hazard. I did a search an found that the newer treated wood can be used in playhouses with exceptions.

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Treated plywood not supposed to be used indoor.
The chemicals can be harmful to people.
I would get marine-grade plywood, or try to find piece at HD with minimal voids (look at the edge how center wood looks like) and no cracks or spackling.

narcodog
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have had a persistent leak since the 06 Lance was new. I'm in the process of replacing the floor along the back wall for the second time. The last I used particle board. This time I'm using treated 1/2 plywood.

weasel4
Explorer
Explorer
Try Rot Doctor.com, they will guide you properly

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
The key to longevity is maintenance and staying with the seals and caulk. I check mine every 3 months without fail and go over every inch. Especially where the water pressure is positive, on the nose and underside of the cab over plus any forward facing seal lips on vents or any items sticking out from the side panel like water heater vents or fresh water fill ports.

On the composite wood thing...

I was going to build a wood mat for the pan in my wet bath from composite but after I compared the actual weight of the composite against teak, teak won out hands down. The composite material was almost twice as heavy.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

joerg68
Nomad III
Nomad III
The eternal discussion...

Somewhere here in these forums was a thread where someone rebuilt his popup camper with Coosa.

There are pros and cons for every material used. Wood rots when not sealed well enough. Aluminum breaks welds when not welded well enough. Fiberglass shells sometimes buckle when not bonded well enough. Problems can be found with all campers, rot is just one of them.

Cost is a major factor, and so is quality control or lack thereof.

I have owned three campers of different design. My current Northstar is all wood.

So.. what do I want to say? Buy what you believe is a good product at a good price, take good care of it, and GO CAMPING!
2014 Ford F350 XLT 6.2 SCLB + 2017 Northstar Arrow

mi_drew
Explorer
Explorer
I agree with jimh425, the problem is not rot it is water. Stop the water like you do with your home.

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I guess the Avion construction does not fit many needs.
But those aluminium constructions are really admirable.
When Avion might have outdated floor plans, take a look at Airstream trailers, or Barth motorhomes.
Those things will get remodeled over and over again, as the shell is lifetime item.

Freep
Explorer
Explorer
Great information, Travelnutz. I didn't know that about Lance. In all the places I have been able to poke my head, I've seen wood framing. Places like, behind the fridge, in the basement and under the step to the cabover. The wood I have seen seems pretty cheap.
2014 Lance 992
2014 Ram 3500 DRW Turbo diesel