"Partial" Winterization

[BulldawgFan]

Ok, I know there are like 4 active winterization threads going right now. This is a variation on that, allow me to set this up.

We are going to be using the camper in a week and a half as we travel for Thanksgiving. Because of that, I don't really want to do a full winterize.

However, over the next several nights it will be 22-32 at night, warming to 50ish during the day.

The camper is at home and connected to 30 amp service. I am running a space heater and the hot water heater is on. Tonight it is only going down to 34. It's the rest of the week that gets as cold as stated. My plan tomorrow is to drain the fresh water tank and all low point drains. Pour a little rv antifreeze in the ptraps for good measure.

However, since the hot water heater is running, there shouldnt be a need to worry about it, right? Wasn't going to drain and bypass.

Also, I like to leave a few gallons of water in the grey and black tanks for when I drive, and that is how it sits now. Should I drain those?

I do have an enclosed underbelly.

Thanks.

[GrandpaKip]

We will also use our camper this winter. While at home, I blow out the lines, drain the water heater, put pink stuff in traps, black and gray tank, open fresh water drain, and open the low point drains. Getting the compressor out and storing it again takes the longest time of the whole exercise, maybe 30-40 minutes total.

[BulldawgFan]

wannavolunteerFT wrote:
Bulldawg Fan, another bulldawg here, but slightly south of you. I am not sure why you are running water heater. Why waste elec/gas to keep water hot that you aren't using? I drained my fresh water tank and water heater, and then turn my furnace on as low as thermostat will go.. 50ish.. like you we have a few nights that are below freezing, but temps don't remain that low but a few hours. I don't want to do the whole winterize because I will be using my TT during Thanksgiving and again during Christmas. I figure if heat keeps it from freezing while using it, it will work parked in the yard.

So do you/would you just turn the water heater off at the breaker?

[wannavolunteerF]

Bulldawg Fan, another bulldawg here, but slightly south of you. I am not sure why you are running water heater. Why waste elec/gas to keep water hot that you aren't using? I drained my fresh water tank and water heater, and then turn my furnace on as low as thermostat will go.. 50ish.. like you we have a few nights that are below freezing, but temps don't remain that low but a few hours. I don't want to do the whole winterize because I will be using my TT during Thanksgiving and again during Christmas. I figure if heat keeps it from freezing while using it, it will work parked in the yard.

[WyoTraveler]

I winterize and de-winterize in about 15 minutes. Used to do it in 10 minutes but W/D added a few minutes. I winterize and de-winterize on the road any time temp drops below 10 degrees. Having to use anti freeze is for those that think air will freeze. I have a portable air compressor and stop in a rest area and blow out lines. As soon as temp is up again just fill tanks again. piece of cake. Of course in WY air doesn't freeze when it gets 20 below. If a few moisture crystals do freeze it won't cause any problems in the lines. I hate that yucky anti freeze. That is why I buy new MHs. I don't want anything to do with that stuff except in p traps.

[jerem0621]

Starting with empty tanks....

I'd just drain the low point drains, drain the water tank, blow out the lines, replace the low point drains, blow out each faucets one at a time, reopen the low point drains, blow out the lines one more time, siphon the remaining water out of the water heater, add antifreeze to the traps and pour about a gallon of antifreeze into the black tank.

Done...takes 15 minutes taking your time.

I don't put antifreeze in my lines...never have...never had any problems with lines freezing...ever... Lines can't freeze if there is no water in them. The few droplets that are left are not enough to cause problems.

De-winterizing the RV for me consists of hooking up the water

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[MFL]

Many campers with enclosed underbelly, also have heat from the furnace ducts to help warm the tanks. Mine does, and in this case, I'd run the furnace at night, rather than the space heater.

The water heater will be fine, as long as it is running.

If there is heat in the camper, and some heat in an insulated belly, the fresh WT, and P traps should be fine too.

Jerry

[CloudDriver]

The space heater should be enough to protect the interior piping as long as you open cabinet doors, etc. to allow the warm air to get into the spaces where the piping is located. If there is piping in the enclosed underbelly that is normally kept warm by a duct from the furnace you probably should run the furnace instead of the space heater. The waste tanks should be OK with only a couple of gallons in them. Temps rising to the 50's in the day will warm things back up so the water in the tanks might not freeze at all. Same goes for the water heater since it is mostly inside the heated RV and not likely to freeze even if shut off.

[magnusfide]

We drive on empty grey and black tanks - there's no reason to have anything in them unless you don't have time for the DS. Definitely empty all the tanks and drains to avoid freeze damage. If you do cold weather camping frequently get one those heated fresh water hoses.

If the interior is kept heated the p traps and water heater should be fine as they are.