Ready for new TT (I think)

[RBPerry]

Wife and I are doing our homework preparing to purchase our first TT. We will be pulling it with a F150 5.4 V8 (Modified), 138” wheel base. Our max tow weight is 8000 pound unless I re-gear to 3:73 gears, that would boost total tow to 8800. If I stick with the 80% recommendation that mean 6400# TT max. The trailer we really like is the Heritage Glen T26RL with a UVW of 5808# and hitch of 634. I know this is cutting it close, but with the shorter wheel base (ball to axle) I’m hoping I will be ok. I also plan on installing Air Bag and pump to keep it level and truck weight balanced a little better. The truck already has the Class III hitch, trailer brake controller, and HD tow package with trans cooler.
If I’m understanding most of the advice given here I should be ok with this package. The biggest concern I have isn’t the towing, but the braking considering the 1/2 ton brakes are much smaller than 3/4 ton.
I’m a retired truck technician but completely new to TT and the RV lifestyle, so what else should I be considering, or am I cutting too close on the weight?

[RBPerry]

Nope. Just turn off OD and let it run. As you like to tinker. Then you already know the engine will be much happier in 3rd gear turning RPMs closer to it's power band, and using all the fuel being supplied to it. You may in fact notice better MPG in 3Rd as the engine will be, and mine is MUCH happier, and running free, and not lugging trying to hold OD. Also the transmission will run cooler. It will run all day and be very happy with OD turned off.

You are right on target. Not only that a friend that is a good transmission guy said putting too much of a load in OD can tear up the back end of the transmission and has been know to crack cases. I do know many years ago they had problems with the read bushing wearing out when the OD was engaged and overloaded.

I already have heavy duty transmission coolers on my truck, and that is a must have.

[RBPerry]

I'm not into questioning safety, but growing up most people pulled heavier campers with family cars and station wagons,

I don't know what vintage cars you are referring to but the auto industry went to uni-body construction many years ago. Prior to that the cars had a full frame and were much heavier, so yes they were more suited for pulling a trailer. Today the game is to make a vehicle as light as possible, that is why we have plastic interiors, aluminum parts, thinner sheet metal and basically weaker cars. Look what ford has done this year, gone to aluminum bodies to save weight, but just wait until it gets banged up and you need someone to straighten the metal.

[jerem0621]

I would be installing another transmission cooler or two set on thermostats...that's the biggest issue I see.

I pulled all over Tennessee with my 97 F150 5.4 and a 32 ft no slide 7000 lb loaded travel trailer...great and stable combo.

Good WD hitch and it was very stable.

Good luck!

Jeremiah

[charley542]

I'm not into questioning safety, but growing up most people pulled heavier campers with family cars and station wagons, and I never remember seeing anyone swaying all over or off the road. I really don't even remember to many vehicles that had any type of brake controllers. Are the cars and trucks just made that much cheaper, or am I missing something.
And yes I use sway control and a wdh, so no one thinks I'm nuts.

[Terryallan]

RBPerry wrote:
Mine is a 2001, crew cab, and the reason the GVWR is 6600 on mine is because of the 3:55 gears, If I go to 3:73 it will bring it up to 6850, and I just may do that. The Stock 5.4 is a good engine, I just have a bad habit of liking to play with things, the problem is the weakest link is the transmission and U Joints when you put a lot more power than they were designed for.

Do you run yours in overdrive on flat highways?

Terryallan; thanks your your input, obviously I have never used a WDH, it took me a little time to figure out how it worked, I probably spent ten minutes looking at one at the dealer until some nice guy explained the geometry and how it worked. One thing I noticed is the rear mounting bolt does not protrude through the frame, I was told so the thing could shift or move, that seems like it would defeat the purpose.

Nope. Just turn off OD and let it run. As you like to tinker. Then you already know the engine will be much happier in 3rd gear turning RPMs closer to it's power band, and using all the fuel being supplied to it. You may in fact notice better MPG in 3Rd as the engine will be, and mine is MUCH happier, and running free, and not lugging trying to hold OD. Also the transmission will run cooler. It will run all day and be very happy with OD turned off.

[shelbyj]

They did't put one on that truck back then. Only way to know is scale it.

[rbpru]

I would look for the cargo capacity on the door jamb. Published figured do not include the weight of many options.

My 2010 F-150 4x4 has a max cargo of 1411 lbs. The 4x4 weight subtracts from the potential max cargo.

[shelbyj]

I have the 3.55 gears as well. Very rarely do I run it in OD. The slightest hill or even trying to speed up kicks it out so I usually just leave it off. You probably only have 700 or 800 of payload available with the crew cab. Just something to consider as well. I overload mine when I have my ATV in the back while towing, I don't do that very often though.

[RBPerry]

Mine is a 2001, crew cab, and the reason the GVWR is 6600 on mine is because of the 3:55 gears, If I go to 3:73 it will bring it up to 6850, and I just may do that. The Stock 5.4 is a good engine, I just have a bad habit of liking to play with things, the problem is the weakest link is the transmission and U Joints when you put a lot more power than they were designed for.

Do you run yours in overdrive on flat highways?

Terryallan; thanks your your input, obviously I have never used a WDH, it took me a little time to figure out how it worked, I probably spent ten minutes looking at one at the dealer until some nice guy explained the geometry and how it worked. One thing I noticed is the rear mounting bolt does not protrude through the frame, I was told so the thing could shift or move, that seems like it would defeat the purpose.

[shelbyj]

RBPerry wrote:
First I want to thank all of you for your helpful responses. My GVW is 6600 pounds leaving me with 1840 of payload, now that is what the book states. The empty hitch weight is 634#, I'm will be using weight distribution hitch. The engine is a fresh 5.4 (I built it) with hotter cams and supercharger, but can't use full boost because trans gets too hot. I just acquired a six speed trans that I may replace the 4 speed with, so power isn't an issue.
I appreciate the opinions on the air bags, they are good for 2000# so I may pass on them, but I would like the truck to ride level if that is realistic.

It is just my wife and I and small dog that will be traveling, we will be adding a small generator, but other than that not a lot of extra weight.

Again, thank you all for your wisdom and advice.

The GVWR is 6600? What year and cab configuration? 3.55 rear end? Whats the GCVWR? I have a 2002 crew cab and mine is 6850. My truck is pushing 6k depending on the amount of people. I pull a 6k loaded trailer just fine with mine. My motor is all stock. I would go much heavier with my setup. I think you will be fine pulling that load as long as you don't go too crazy loading up the trailer. They get heavy pretty fast. I would recommend E rated tires.

Good luck and enjoy the ride.

I would wait on the airbags to see if you need them.

[Terryallan]

RBPerry wrote:
First I want to thank all of you for your helpful responses. My GVW is 6600 pounds leaving me with 1840 of payload, now that is what the book states. The empty hitch weight is 634#, I'm will be using weight distribution hitch. The engine is a fresh 5.4 (I built it) with hotter cams and supercharger, but can't use full boost because trans gets too hot. I just acquired a six speed trans that I may replace the 4 speed with, so power isn't an issue.
I appreciate the opinions on the air bags, they are good for 2000# so I may pass on them, but I would like the truck to ride level if that is realistic.

It is just my wife and I and small dog that will be traveling, we will be adding a small generator, but other than that not a lot of extra weight.

Again, thank you all for your wisdom and advice.

Once you get the WDH adjusted correctly. then yes the truck will sit level. In fact it will sit pretty close to how it does now. If it sits nose up. Then you don't have the hitch right. Follow instructions, and measure. You will be fine. Heed the warning not to raise the rear higher than it was unhooked

[RBPerry]

Path1, so you are using the air bags. I don't like the plastic lines, I would use metal or at least braided, chased way too many air leaks on 18 wheelers so I know what you mean. I would want the compressor, also give me a easy way to keep my tires checked each day of travel. From the opinion of the other folks here I will wait on the air bags and see how she handles.

Thanks for your thoughts

[RBPerry]

First I want to thank all of you for your helpful responses. My GVW is 6600 pounds leaving me with 1840 of payload, now that is what the book states. The empty hitch weight is 634#, I'm will be using weight distribution hitch. The engine is a fresh 5.4 (I built it) with hotter cams and supercharger, but can't use full boost because trans gets too hot. I just acquired a six speed trans that I may replace the 4 speed with, so power isn't an issue.
I appreciate the opinions on the air bags, they are good for 2000# so I may pass on them, but I would like the truck to ride level if that is realistic.

It is just my wife and I and small dog that will be traveling, we will be adding a small generator, but other than that not a lot of extra weight.

Again, thank you all for your wisdom and advice.

[fla-gypsy]

If you can handle the 900lbs +/- of tongue weight you can do it safely provided you use a good integrated WD/sway control hitch system.