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Rear Bumper Storage - how bad is it?

vtraudt
Explorer
Explorer
The easiest place to make more room for stuff is the rear of the trailer. I used a large platform on all my Class C RV.

But now with travel trailer, any mass added 'back there' is not just reducing the tongue weight (which could be compensated by relocating items).

But adding mass so far away from the center adds a LOT of inertia to the trailer. I am wondering how much it can or will impact the towing stability and sway tendency.

14 REPLIES 14

vtraudt
Explorer
Explorer
Skibane wrote:
vtraudt wrote:

Only concerned about the increased sway tendency from the added mass so far away from center.


Any mass you added to the hitch tongue would tend to counteract the additional mass in the back.

At any given instant, any torque applied by the mass in the back will be resisted by the mass in the front.


No, that is not how inertia works. Any mass added away from the center line ADDS to the inertia.

vtraudt
Explorer
Explorer
penguin149 wrote:
Gotta worry about the bounce too.

Good point. Whatever is stored back there needs to be secured (vertically as well) and content 'rattle and bounce' proof.

Seon
Explorer II
Explorer II
vtraudt wrote:

Only concerned about the increased sway tendency from the added mass so far away from center.


I have a Hensley hitch that virtually eliminated sways. But I don't tow over 65mph.

penguin149
Explorer
Explorer
Gotta worry about the bounce too. I had a reinforced bumper on a previous TT with a cargo carrier/bike rack. Everything bounced and bounced and bounced....almost lost the bikes on the interstate as the expansion joints in the road made the bounce worse. Finally quit using it out of safety concerns.
2021 Nissan Titan Pro-4X 5.6L V8 4WD - 2019 Keystone Bullet 243BHS

Skibane
Explorer II
Explorer II
vtraudt wrote:

Only concerned about the increased sway tendency from the added mass so far away from center.


Any mass you added to the hitch tongue would tend to counteract the additional mass in the back.

At any given instant, any torque applied by the mass in the back will be resisted by the mass in the front.

B-n-B
Explorer III
Explorer III
These Lippert under chassis storage boxes cost a pretty penny, but they offer a solution other than the rear bumper.

https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=lippert+under+trailer+storage&furl=-pg-RV_Cargo_Carrier
2019 Chevy 3500HD LTZ DRW
2025 Bigfoot 10.4

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Adding weight to the rear of a TT isnโ€™t the best ideaโ€ฆeven frame supported IMO.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
One other issue is metal fatigue -- by mounting stuff in the far back, you increase the "lever effect" of the load. So as the back of the trailer shakes from side to side and up and down, there is a lot of stress on the place where the hitch receiver meets the chassis. Cumulatively, that stress can result in metal fatigue and structural failure.

This issue is not a deal killer -- just make sure that the components are sufficiently beefy and that the welding is done by someone with the necessary skills. Also, make sure that the frame of the RV is competent to handle the load -- the whole rear storage arrangement is only as strong as its weakest link.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
If you mount it solidly to the frame and you keep the hitch weight up in the 12-15% range when the rack is loaded, I wouldn't worry too much.

The problems usually arise when someone starts with maybe 12% hitch weight and then they load up the back end resulting in something on the order of 8% and it becomes a carnival ride going down the road.

The bigger the trailer, the more likely you can absorb a couple hundred pounds on the stern while keeping a good hitch weight.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

vtraudt
Explorer
Explorer
mleekamp wrote:

BTW, our current Class C, I added a spare tire carrier and spare...the carrier alone was HEAVY -- solid steel -- to carry the 200lb (guestimate) spare tire. The carrier also allows me to still tow a car flat down or trailer. On the C, on a 450 chassis, I don't notice it at all. You probably experienced the same on a C...


On my first class C, I mounted a HUGE wooden box (on wheels, serving as outdoor storage in the winter) to the rear frame (Chevy class C chassis, 25 ft, huge rear overhang). It was SO heavy, that going through road 'dips' it felt (or actual?) the front wheels came OFF THE GROUND. Also: front brakes locked up like CRAZY during emergency braking (no weight!). In retrospect: I was a nutty setup!

vtraudt
Explorer
Explorer
Seon wrote:
I added an aluminum tool box at the rear then added larger propane tanks, two batteries and a 2k generator up front to


Not afraid about the weight balance (I plan to add storage up front as well) or overall weight (we travel fairly light, plenty off weight 'room' to get to our 7500 lb trailer weight limit).

Obviously, under floor storage (near axle, or further to the front) would be ideal, but inconvenient (will add some 'shelf' down there for storing boards, battery relocation, spare tire and other stuff not often needed).

Only concerned about the increased sway tendency from the added mass so far away from center.

Seon
Explorer II
Explorer II
I added an aluminum tool box at the rear then added larger propane tanks, two batteries and a 2k generator up front to balance the weight.



GrandpaKip
Explorer II
Explorer II
We carry between 60 and 100 pounds on the cargo carrier. With 100#, we are at 13% on the tongue. No sway or any other issues.
The carrier is frame mounted. I wouldnโ€™t trust the standard โ€œbumperโ€ to hold more than a spare tire.
Kip
2015 Skyline Dart 214RB
2018 Silverado Double Cab 4x4
Andersen Hitch

mleekamp
Explorer
Explorer
When we had a TT (several actually), I always added a spare tire and bike rack. I could tell the difference, though not a huge one, when having 4 bikes back there vs. none. Never really towed w/o the spare.

I will note that in the front basement of our TT, near the hitch, I had a grill, hammock stand, all kinds of stuff...so with 4 bikes it did balance it out. So like you said, relocating items (my grill was originally stored in the back, but I moved to front) is a common fix.

As far as sway, we used a standard friction sway bar, and we had no issue. I think overall, in general terms, your initial set up is critical to an enjoyable tow. I'm talking 1st time with truck and trailer, loaded. I'm sure you know that. Personally, I'd be carefull adding too much weight back there.

BTW, our current Class C, I added a spare tire carrier and spare...the carrier alone was HEAVY -- solid steel -- to carry the 200lb (guestimate) spare tire. The carrier also allows me to still tow a car flat down or trailer. On the C, on a 450 chassis, I don't notice it at all. You probably experienced the same on a C...