Recommended Solar control module for 50W solar panel?

[SuaveGato]

Hello,
I have a small 50 watt solar panel on my TC but it was never hooked up? The wires run into the TC but are just cut. And taped to another set of wires that run down to the batteries. (not connected to each other) I understand it needs a control module for me to hook it up? Any recommendations for a "good" one where good = value (quality / economy)

Thanks

[Ski_Pro_3]

Geewizard wrote:


Skipro3, what kind of solar powered equipment do you deal with? My experience is with remote telemetered seismic monitoring stations.

I deal with remote telemetered Hydrography field monitoring stations. These include stream gauging stations, reservoir elevations, rain cans, snow pillows, air temps, solar radiation, wind speeds, etc. Data is used for the Hydrographers computer modeling programs that determine the predicted watershed for hydro-electric dams as well as early warning for dam failures.

[SuaveGato]

Thanks everyone. I just ordered up the Sunsaver 6 for my 50 w panel. not sure but I think I could add another 50w to it later? since they are less than 3 w and the panel goes to 6? But, If not, it was inexpensive, so If / when I want to upgrade later, no biggie if I need to upgrade it too. Thanks for all of the help. I think this will work well for me for now, I don't do a lot of off grid stuff as of now anyway. This will basically just keep my batteries topped while no shore power is available.

Thanks

[Geewizard]

I connect my electric Happijacks (and everything else in my TC) directly to the battery, not to the solar controller load terminals. The high current needed for the jacks is for a relatively short time and I want to be able to use the jacks without the solar controller interfering....as it would if I connected the jacks to the LVD-controlled LOAD terminals.

I agree with you on the use of the LOAD connection. I'm not questioning your comments at all. This is for the original poster....

This is from Northern Arizona Wind & Sun (my source for solar equipment):

"What is a Load, or "Low Voltage Disconnect" output?

Some controllers also have a "LOAD", or LVD output, which can be used for smaller loads, such as small appliances and lights. The advantage is that the load terminals have a low voltage disconnect, so it will turn off whatever is connected to the load terminals and keep from running the battery down too far. The LOAD output is often used for small non-critical loads, such as lights. A few, such as the Xantrex C12, can also be used as a lighting controller, to turn lights on at dark, but the Morningstar SLC lighting controller is usually a better choice for that. Do not use the LOAD output to run any but very small inverters. Inverters can have very high surge currents and may blow the controller.

Most systems do not need the LVD function - it can drive only smaller loads. Depending on the rating of the controller, this may be from 6 to 60 amps. You cannot run any but the smallest inverter from the LOAD output. On some controllers, such as the Morningstar SS series, the load output can be used to drive a heavy duty relay for load control, gen start etc. The LOAD or LVD output is most often used in RV & remote systems, such as camera, monitor, and cell phone sites where the load is small and the site is unattended."

Just fyi, that's all.

Skipro3, what kind of solar powered equipment do you deal with? My experience is with remote telemetered seismic monitoring stations.

[Ski_Pro_3]

AnEv942 wrote:

skipro3 wrote:
One other thing I wanted to point out about that Sun Saver MPPT. It has a MAX output load rating of 15amps. My camper has motor driven jacks. They draw almost 30amps when lifting the camper. Because of that, this controller would not work in most campers with motorized jacks.

Ummm? You wouldnt be driving them (jacks, or any other load) directly from solar output.

No. The controller has three connections;
Input (from solar panels)
Battery (the house battery plant)
Output or Load (the feed to the 12 volt buss that everything on 12 volts connects to)

The controller is rated at 15amps OUTPUT or LOAD. The jacks draw 30amps. Even though the batteries could handle that load, the jacks are not connected to the batteries, they are connected to the controller output.

The purpose of the controller output being separate and isolated from battery is mainly to disconnect load when the batteries get too low. This keeps the batteries from being damaged from being drawn too low.

Hope that makes sense.

[AnEv942]

skipro3 wrote:
One other thing I wanted to point out about that Sun Saver MPPT. It has a MAX output load rating of 15amps. My camper has motor driven jacks. They draw almost 30amps when lifting the camper. Because of that, this controller would not work in most campers with motorized jacks.

Ummm? You wouldnt be driving them (jacks, or any other load) directly from solar output.

[xyznotes]

This 50W comes with the controller.
http://itechworld.com/collections/solar/products/airflex-mini-solar-panel-kit-50-watt

[Ski_Pro_3]

One other thing I wanted to point out about that Sun Saver MPPT. It has a MAX output load rating of 15amps. My camper has motor driven jacks. They draw almost 30amps when lifting the camper. Because of that, this controller would not work in most campers with motorized jacks.

[Ski_Pro_3]

On a 50 watt panel, the PWM controller is the better value. If you want to spend that much more, get another 50watt panel over a MPPT controller. You'll be watts ahead and have change in your pocket!

An MPPT controller will get you maybe 10 to 40% better efficiency out of your 50 watt panel and cost you $120 more that a PWM. A 50 watt panel will get you 100% more power and cost you about $85.

[Geewizard]

Mello Mike wrote:
x3 on the Morningstar Sunsaver. I've been very happy with mine. I also bought the Remote meter to monitor solar charging performance.

I've used Morningstar Sunsaver standard (PWM) controllers at work for many years.

That said.....

If you want to get the most from your solar panel, get a Morningstar MPPT controller Yes, they are three times more expensive. They are so much better at getting the full potential out of any solar panel than a standard PWM solar controller can.

I have one for my solar panel. To me, it's worth the extra cost.

[pezvela]

What type of battery is your house battery?

I have a Sunsaver Duo controller and, out of the box, it wants to set the float voltage at 13.7, which is a bit high for most AGM batteries. Most AGMs should be floated at about 13.2-13.4. But if you have a standard lead-acid battery, 13.7 is probably just fine. Just keep an eye on the water levels. I dont know about other Sunsaver controllers; I am speaking to the Sunsaver Duo. It would be wise to research it if you plan on owning an AGM.

The SS Duo can bet set for a lower float voltage........but, unfortunately, it requires purchasing a module for interfacing the unit with a computer to dial it down. And it's an RS-232 serial interface. I dont think I have owned a computer with a serial interface since about 2006. So, that would mean an adaptor to a USB port AND loading a driver.

I do like the Duo capability to charge two isolated battery banks. I have the second "output" of the Duo going to the battery isolator in my camper. That charges the truck batteries when I want it.

[Mello_Mike]

x3 on the Morningstar Sunsaver. I've been very happy with mine. I also bought the Remote meter to monitor solar charging performance.

[Petelogan]

drc5900 wrote:
P.S. When feeding your solar panel manufactured bysolar panels manufacturer direct to battery/ies, make sure to disconnect after sunset, or install a diode: otherwise your solar panel might drain your battery/ies at night.
Some solar panels have built-in diodes: if your solar panel has a built-in diode, your "direct wire" set-up would be OK, and don't worry about my P.S.

Thanks for your advice.. I think I am doing similar mistake and it is the reason behind poor performance of my panels..

[Ski_Pro_3]

msiminoff wrote:

SuaveGato wrote:
Any recommendations for a "good" one where good = value (quality / economy)

MorningStar's SunSaver line meets your definition of "good". Either the SS-6 or SS-10 (if you intend to add an additional panel in the future) would serve you well.
Cheers
-Mark

I used the SunSaver 10 at over 40 field sites for work. They hold up great. I have one on my solar powered gate too.

[drc5900]

P.S. When feeding your solar panel direct to battery/ies, make sure to disconnect after sunset, or install a diode: otherwise your solar panel might drain your battery/ies at night.
Some solar panels have built-in diodes: if your solar panel has a built-in diode, your "direct wire" set-up would be OK, and don't worry about my P.S.

[SuaveGato]

AnEv942 wrote:
Well at less than 3 amps-I suppose you could hook directly to battery, personally not my choice, but there are a lot of smarter folks out there than me. If you went that route at minimum I would install fuses (both pos & neg),

Thanks, won't be direct wiring though... Don't want to cook the batteries etc. And I'll likely get a control module that I can add at least a 100 watt panel to in the future too.