Refrigator Problems

[patkvm]

Hello all,

I would like to bounce something off of this group. Kind of long...

I have a 2013 Jayco 185RB Swift SLX trailer. This trailer is back in the shop after 1 use this year for refrigerator issues. Well not exactly issues with the refer itself. Every time I turn on the A/C the refer box warms up to about 70 degrees, turn off the A/C and the refer works fine. Jayco, Norcold and the dealer are still trying to figure out why this happens. Norcold has replaced the refer. Jayco and dealer have reinstalled the refer and replaced all baffles. So now Jayco is talking about picking up the unit and transporting it back to Middlebury to figure out what is going on.

My question to the groups is, has anyone heard of this? Does anyone have this problem?

Thank you for your time and your responses.

[Cuffs054]

I'm confused. Are we talking "AC" as in alternating current or air conditioning? Seems to be two threads here.

[Caveman_Charlie]

It must be a problem that when the AC is on the fridge is not drafting correctly. Just a guess on my part because I don't really know but, I wonder if a drafting fan put behind the fridge might solve the problem. They make fans just for this purpose so it must be a fairly common problem. It may also be that the problem could be solved by putting a baffle in the right place.

[chr_]

Everything I could come up with was already said other than if the AC condenser fan is blowing hot air into the roof vent for the refer. That may prevent natural convection.

Other than that, absorption refers suck and are one of the worst products on the planet. Just sayin... My 1977 Norcold ACDC compressor fridge in my GMC motorhome worked better than these pieces of c r a p.

[Old-Biscuit]

Happening only on AC operation then it would be due to a voltage drop BUT with it happening on AC and propane operations it has to be related to installation/ventilation of fridge.

Download the installation manual HERE and check the dimensions of fridge opening, the proper clearance dimensions, the proper installation of upper/lower vents and the correct baffle installation.

Something is not right with that install. Maybe it isn't properly sealed allowing outside air flow to the inside of RV around/under fridge when you turn on A/C Unit disrupting the natural draft across the cooling coils

[patkvm]

Unfortunately there is no 12v DC circuity for that model. It has a push ignition just like a gas grill. So that fix is ruled out. It never fails that the easy stuff is never on the trailer.

[wwest]

The control circuit board in the Norcold is not well grounded and the ground is "backfeeding" from the A/C "run" circuitry. Apply 12 volts to the A/C circuit, no ground, fridge is disabled.

Common problem with dual filament automotive tail/stop lights with
tail/brake assembly on one side missing a ground connection, or an extremely poor ground. Tail lights work normally, turn on the brake lights, the tail lights go off and only the side with ground lights the bulb brake filament.

Tail lights work since the one with no ground has a fairly low resistance ground "backfeed" path, 2 low resistance stop light filaments.

Find a ground point on the fridge control circuit board that goes to 12 volts when the A/C is switched on.


Wall thermostat controlling the A/C?

[wwest]

patkvm wrote:
I know that the refer does not have a 12 volt side. It is either LP or 120v. The trailer has a N302R refer and one thought process was to put a N300.3 in which is a 12v/LP/120v refer. They have even gone as far as running wires back to the converter and installing this Norcold Refrigerator FAN KIT part #619020 behind the refer.

12 volts is used for fridge control PC board.

[patkvm]

I know that the refer does not have a 12 volt side. It is either LP or 120v. The trailer has a N302R refer and one thought process was to put a N300.3 in which is a 12v/LP/120v refer. They have even gone as far as running wires back to the converter and installing this Norcold Refrigerator FAN KIT part #619020 behind the refer.

[skipnchar]

I would agree with Robsouth but if it also happens on LP mode that pretty well means it's not the 120 volt side causing the problem. My guess is something about how the 12 volt system is working. Perhaps it's shorting out the 12 volt to the fridge so the thermostat no longer works. How is the interior light in the fridge doing when it warms up? May prove to be something as simple as a grounding issue. I'll be interesting to hear what they find is the cause.

[patkvm]

I sure will keep the forum up to date. I do know that it is the same problem on propane. They think that the air flow is getting disrupted behind the unit so it stops cooling. I am not sure if that is really happening but I never claimed to be a RV engineer. So that is why I thought I would ask the masses.

[patkvm]

I sure will keep the forum up to date. I do know that it is the same problem on propane. They think that the air flow is getting disrupted behind the unit so it stops cooling. I am not sure if that is really happening but I never claimed to be a RV engineer. So that is why I thought I would as the masses.

[robsouth]

That is entirely too weird. The A/C and the Fridge are not related at all so far as I know. Only thing I can think is that you are underpowered (low voltage) to the point that the A/C leaves little for anything else. Hope you figure it out. I will be watching for your future posts as to what was wrong. Good luck.