Self adjusting brakes - Mod

[js6343js6343]

Well I made a decision to install self adjusting brakes as a part of my brake replacement this spring.

Now after reading some posts I am sufficiently spooked and wonder if I should not have stayed with the manual adjust.

If these self adjusting brakes don't work out, and I am afraid they wont, is there a way to just disable the self adjusting mechanism and and revert them to a manual system?

[Lynnmor]

Gdetrailer wrote:

Perhaps "owning" a RV is not for you?

Don't trust the inspection mechanic, simple, MOVE ON TO ANOTHER.

I drive 15 miles one way to mechanics that I found are straight shooters good.. There are MANY "inspection stations" to choose from, just a matter of finding one that has constantly good mechanics.

I found mine at a local tire shop which does not only passenger vehicles but also heavy truck tires and mechanicals.. GOOD folks there.

I also stand right there while they inspect, they give me tips and pointers and I can give them the history of what has been done.

Don't trust, don't take it back and find another mechanic.

Not ALL mechanics are bad, there ARE good ones, just have to sift out the bad ones.

OK, now I get it, my words mean nothing. Thanks for taking the time to school me.

[trail-explorer]

Gdetrailer wrote:
The only reason for me to replace was last inspection the mechanic found some cracks in the lining at the bottom of one of the brake shoes.. Most likely will not pass inspection this year..

What sort of "inspection" is it that you may not pass?

Do the inspection people make you pull the drums to look at the brakes?

I've read that cracks in trailer brake linings are common.

[Gdetrailer]

westend wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
The switchover for me was painless, called Dexter and asked for Technical assistance.. Tech asked for the drum part number and was able to cross it to a 3,500 lb axle..

The spindle size and length was the same as a 3,500 lb axle so I was good to go for the change over.

Thanks for that info. I currently have the older four bolt wheels and they are getting scarce. I may have to switch over to a more modern wheel.

And Lynnmor, that is about the nicest looking drum I've ever seen.

Yeah, bought my trailer used and it came with 15" 4 bolt Star rims and no spare..

Had a heart attack when I found out what the price was for a new star rim.. Seems to me it was on the order of $175 10 yrs ago.

My local Tractor Supply stocked replacement drums for 3,500 lb axles at $120 a pair.. two pairs for $240 and my local tire shop I deal with sold me new 5 bolt Ford pattern 15" rims for $35 each..

The joys of being able to buy standard off the shelf parts = PRICELESS..

Of course, now days my local Tractor supply carries nothing, what a joke that chain has become.. Can't buy tractor parts, trailer parts, heck the only thing they seem to carry is "western" clothing (and it is high priced).

[Gdetrailer]

Lynnmor wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:


An out of round drum causing problems is NOT the fault of self adjusters, period.

An out of round drum is easy to find, heavy vibration while braking is one sure sign that a driver WILL FEEL even as far back as the trailer axles..

Another sure sign of out of round drums is the brakes lightly dragging then no drag or complete stop while turning wheel or drum when you have the tire off the ground during your own inspection (you DO periodically INSPECT your drums/brakes, DON'T YOU??? I sure do!).

PA has an annual inspection, so I CHECK MY OWN BRAKES BEFORE DRAGGING THE TRAILER TO THE INSPECTION STATION. Saves time and aggravation of a failed inspection.

I am in PA as well and hate having anyone mess with my brakes, bearings and seals. My vehicles get three inspections per year. First I inspect, second the inspection and third I fix what they touched.

Yes, I do all of my own work including the turning of brake drums. The idea that over-adjusting is not the fault of self-adjusters, you have to remember that the axle manufacturer often turns out poor quality. Folks that want the self-adjusting feature are just trying to get out of one more chore and they will never detect the grabbing of the brakes because they will never check.

Perhaps "owning" a RV is not for you?

Don't trust the inspection mechanic, simple, MOVE ON TO ANOTHER.

I drive 15 miles one way to mechanics that I found are straight shooters good.. There are MANY "inspection stations" to choose from, just a matter of finding one that has constantly good mechanics.

I found mine at a local tire shop which does not only passenger vehicles but also heavy truck tires and mechanicals.. GOOD folks there.

I also stand right there while they inspect, they give me tips and pointers and I can give them the history of what has been done.

Don't trust, don't take it back and find another mechanic.

Not ALL mechanics are bad, there ARE good ones, just have to sift out the bad ones.

[westend]

Gdetrailer wrote:
The switchover for me was painless, called Dexter and asked for Technical assistance.. Tech asked for the drum part number and was able to cross it to a 3,500 lb axle..

The spindle size and length was the same as a 3,500 lb axle so I was good to go for the change over.

Thanks for that info. I currently have the older four bolt wheels and they are getting scarce. I may have to switch over to a more modern wheel.

And Lynnmor, that is about the nicest looking drum I've ever seen.

[Lynnmor]

Gdetrailer wrote:


An out of round drum causing problems is NOT the fault of self adjusters, period.

An out of round drum is easy to find, heavy vibration while braking is one sure sign that a driver WILL FEEL even as far back as the trailer axles..

Another sure sign of out of round drums is the brakes lightly dragging then no drag or complete stop while turning wheel or drum when you have the tire off the ground during your own inspection (you DO periodically INSPECT your drums/brakes, DON'T YOU??? I sure do!).

PA has an annual inspection, so I CHECK MY OWN BRAKES BEFORE DRAGGING THE TRAILER TO THE INSPECTION STATION. Saves time and aggravation of a failed inspection.

I am in PA as well and hate having anyone mess with my brakes, bearings and seals. My vehicles get three inspections per year. First I inspect, second the inspection and third I fix what they touched.

Yes, I do all of my own work including the turning of brake drums. The idea that over-adjusting is not the fault of self-adjusters, you have to remember that the axle manufacturer often turns out poor quality. Folks that want the self-adjusting feature are just trying to get out of one more chore and they will never detect the grabbing of the brakes because they will never check.

[Gdetrailer]

westend wrote:

js6343js6343 wrote:

westend wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
That was when I bought new drums to convert from the old Dexter "star" rims to modern 5 bolt Ford pattern rims.

Did you replace the hubs, also?

I've found the biggest failure of brake assemblies has been either a buildup of dirt through open adjustment ports on the backing plate or no lubrication on moving parts when installing. I wish I had a dollar for every star wheel and threaded rod I've had to tear down and lubricate.

I replaced the entire backing plate with self adjusting brakes. I did not replace the drums.

No worries. My question about the hubs was directed to Gde.

My suggestion to the OP is to make sure a lubricant is put on moving parts and try the new brakes out. You may be assuming a problem that doesn't exist.

Trailer axles with brakes use drums that are one piece drum/hub and when buying new drums you will get new bearings and grease seal.

The switchover for me was painless, called Dexter and asked for Technical assistance.. Tech asked for the drum part number and was able to cross it to a 3,500 lb axle..

The spindle size and length was the same as a 3,500 lb axle so I was good to go for the change over.

As far as self adjuster failures goes, IF you are going to "lubricate" use DRY LUBRICATION, anything oily or greasy WILL ATTRACT DIRT AND DUST!!

[Gdetrailer]

Lynnmor wrote:
Self adjusters can over adjust if the brake drums are not running true. Dexter has a tolerance of .015" run-out which is too much.

You cannot compare the trailer forward adjusters with the automobile adjusters that required stopping in reverse.

An out of round drum causing problems is NOT the fault of self adjusters, period.

An out of round drum is easy to find, heavy vibration while braking is one sure sign that a driver WILL FEEL even as far back as the trailer axles..

Another sure sign of out of round drums is the brakes lightly dragging then no drag or complete stop while turning wheel or drum when you have the tire off the ground during your own inspection (you DO periodically INSPECT your drums/brakes, DON'T YOU??? I sure do!).

PA has an annual inspection, so I CHECK MY OWN BRAKES BEFORE DRAGGING THE TRAILER TO THE INSPECTION STATION. Saves time and aggravation of a failed inspection.

[westend]

js6343js6343 wrote:

westend wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
That was when I bought new drums to convert from the old Dexter "star" rims to modern 5 bolt Ford pattern rims.

Did you replace the hubs, also?

I've found the biggest failure of brake assemblies has been either a buildup of dirt through open adjustment ports on the backing plate or no lubrication on moving parts when installing. I wish I had a dollar for every star wheel and threaded rod I've had to tear down and lubricate.

I replaced the entire backing plate with self adjusting brakes. I did not replace the drums.

No worries. My question about the hubs was directed to Gde.

My suggestion to the OP is to make sure a lubricant is put on moving parts and try the new brakes out. You may be assuming a problem that doesn't exist.

[js6343js6343]

westend wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
That was when I bought new drums to convert from the old Dexter "star" rims to modern 5 bolt Ford pattern rims.

Did you replace the hubs, also?

I've found the biggest failure of brake assemblies has been either a buildup of dirt through open adjustment ports on the backing plate or no lubrication on moving parts when installing. I wish I had a dollar for every star wheel and threaded rod I've had to tear down and lubricate.

I replaced the entire backing plate with self adjusting brakes. I did not replace the drums.

[Lynnmor]

Self adjusters can over adjust if the brake drums are not running true. Dexter has a tolerance of .015" run-out which is too much.

You cannot compare the trailer forward adjusters with the automobile adjusters that required stopping in reverse.

[ktmrfs]

js6343js6343 wrote:

donn0128 wrote:
Instead of sticking with 200 dollars worth of old school, bite the bullet andmgomfor disc brakes. Makes a huge difference.

Too late. Already installed.

I can't see the real advantage to disk brakes. I can easily lock up all 4 trailer wheels and at the same time in sequence. so disk brakes aren't going to increase stopping power. Maybe reduce fade, but frankly all I need the trailer brakes for is stopping. I have yet to have to use TV/Trailer brakes on downhill grades for more than a few seconds. TV exhaust brake controls speeds just fine.

[westend]

Gdetrailer wrote:
That was when I bought new drums to convert from the old Dexter "star" rims to modern 5 bolt Ford pattern rims.

Did you replace the hubs, also?

I've found the biggest failure of brake assemblies has been either a buildup of dirt through open adjustment ports on the backing plate or no lubrication on moving parts when installing. I wish I had a dollar for every star wheel and threaded rod I've had to tear down and lubricate.

[Gdetrailer]

js6343js6343 wrote:
Could be I am anticipating the worst. I hope you are correct. One less problem.

Thanks

There should not be any "harm" in having them, self adjusting drum brakes HAVE been around for many years..

The downside is they sometimes fail to adjust, often times due to rust on the adjuster screw, brake dust/dirt build up on the adjuster screw, the adjuster wire rusting and breaking or the star wheel on the adjuster wearing out..

All of those above failure modes will never over tighten the brakes.

As far as overtightening, well lets just say it IS impossible for the automatic adjustment hardware to do so..

The adjuster screw can only move when no brakes are applied (IE no pressure against the drum. The adjuster cable has a spring to pull the adjuster down across the star wheel.

The spring only has enough strength to move the adjuster screw with no pressure against the drum.. It can only SNUG the screw.

Most likely the installer would have had to set the brake shoes too tight to have caused premature brake wear.

You only want to set the brakes so the drum slides on easy (IE very little to no drag).. If you set the shoes too tight you will have to force the drum on and that WILL ruin your brake shoes.

Nothing wrong with either way (IE auto or no auto), I just don't find it is worth the extra money for myself since I obviously am not hard on brakes.