Small solar set up for TT.

[Trackrig]

Got home with a used 2006 Nash 26X TT that I bought a little while ago. I want to put some solar on it, but not get carried away at this time. There's a chance I may not keep this trailer so I don't want to put a lot of time, money or effort into the solar until I do decide to keep it. Part of it is making up my mind if this TT is too small. There's another model three feet longer that I'd like.

The TT is factory wired from the roof to the batteries with #10 wire for solar. It's probably about a 14' run. There are two 6V batteries on the tongue. If I keep the trailer I already know how I'll add two more batteries.

I wanted to just put a panel on the roof and hook up the wiring to the panels and batteries. I don't want to get into running larger wire, roof boxes, drilling holes, figuring how to get it down through cabinets, buying a controller and so on at this time.

However, it appears I can only go with about 15W of solar without using a controller. So the next approach I'm looking at is putting about 2-300W of non-tilted panels on the roof, using the factory wiring to where it comes out at the batteries and then using a hopefully WATERPROOF controller to connect to the batteries.

Can anyone recommend a suitable WATERPROOF / WEATHERPROOF controller that I can mount outside near the batteries? If a truly weatherproof controller doesn't exist, then I might be able to mount it in a waterproof electrical box under the battery rack if the controller won't generate too much heat. This is in Alaska, so outside temperature shouldn't be a problem.

I do have electrical in the back yard to run the Progressive Dynamics PD9245 converter. In storage mode it's at 13.2V and the charge wizard goes to an equalize mode of 14.4V every 21 hours for 15 minutes.

What are your recommendations on a simple solar set up using the factory wiring? I don't want to use "suitcase" styled panels due to the lack of storage space in the TT.

Bill

[westend]

Locating the controller inside the trailer and using the original wires that can be accessed from the roof is going to be the best solution, IMO. You will also need to install cables to the battery but that would be done in any installation scheme.
Installing an exterior box to house the controller isn't a monumental task but you have the needed ventilation to contend with. If your ventilation screen or slots are covered in snow or ice, it would be a bad thing. Also, deterioration of the electronics could be possible depending on climate.

[webrx]

A little redneck I know, but, I stick my controller inside a plastic ammo box, run wires outside the box, and connect it up at the battery, then run wires from the panel to the input plugs outside the box and put the box in the shade. Now remember, I am portable and only run 100 Watts but I have not had a heat problem with this method, been doing this for a couple years.

Dave

[Trackrig]

It might be back to the drawing board again or wait until I have time to run new and larger wire so the controller can be inside out of the weather.....

Bill

[pianotuna]

Hi,

My Blue Sky does a maximum of 17 amps @ 14.x volts. It gets warm enough that you would not wish to leave your hand on it for very long. It does not have a cooling fan. Output is a maximum of 224 watts.

Fried controller and eggs is not a "breakfast of champions".

Trackrig wrote:
This is the OP coming back again. Since it appears no one makes a waterproof controller (larger than 4.5A), my next idea is to mount the controller under the batteries in a waterproof box like the below one from Home Depot.

Home Depot 12" x 12" x 6" waterproof junction box.

I'm in Alaska so I don't have the southwests' hot temperatures and I'd mount it under the battery boxes in the shade. I can easily seal where the wires go in and out of the box. How much heat does a controller for 2 - 300 watts put off - do I have to worry about it?

Bill

[Trackrig]

This is the OP coming back again. Since it appears no one makes a waterproof controller (larger than 4.5A), my next idea is to mount the controller under the batteries in a waterproof box like the below one from Home Depot.

Home Depot 12" x 12" x 6" waterproof junction box.

I'm in Alaska so I don't have the southwests' hot temperatures and I'd mount it under the battery boxes in the shade. I can easily seal where the wires go in and out of the box. How much heat does a controller for 2 - 300 watts put off - do I have to worry about it?

Bill

[_DJ_1]

I also have the Renogy suitcase. One of the best additions I have bought. I can use it on the TT, TC, at home and my boat. And being able to aim it directly at the sun makes a huge difference. First I tried it just laying flat on the roof. Good hot sun high in the sky I thought it would do good. 1.5 amps. I tilted it slightly, about 6", to face directly into the sun. 5.5 amps!! If I can find room for it in an 8' camper then a 26' should be no problem. And you're not out a nickel as it stays with you. Those twin 6 volt batts have amazing storage. I would try them first without adding more. Especially if you might not keep this TT. JMHO

[granitebaygeeze]

Have had a solar panel on our trailers spanning 30 years. As a retired EE, this stuff was easy to do. For last 12 years have also a 5k solar array on our home feeding the grid. Now to share thoughts from our experience.
1. A solar panel only needs to replace charge lost due to consumption since the last charge. When dry camping that's often very little, especially when using propane for cooking, refrigerator, and heat in your trailer.
2. We usually camp in sunny locations. If A/C needed, we look for hookups. Solar isn't a viable solution. If camping in shade, portable solar required.
3. Never had more than 2 matched batteries, usually they last 5 or more years.
4. Mounting the small 7amp regulator in the refrigerator back access panel worked great for our 19 foot Prowler since the wiring passed through there anyway. The panel was 25 watts. Max current draw was negligible at that wattage. Have a 30 foot trailer with superslide these last 12 years and a 65 watt panel with electric jack. It's controller is mounted behind our front frame member.
5. We're not wasteful, of course, but we've also not had dead batteries.
Hope this encourages you.

[webrx]

I mount my solar panels in the bed of my truck (no theft), and I also have a little 40 watt panel that is portable in the pass through. From the truck I run a 25 foot cable to the TT so I can park the panels in the sun and keep the TT in the shade. the little panel is used if I want to catch the last bit of sun for the day or if I want to take the truck somewhere I can hook up the portable (cabled to a tree or something) and take off. We are generally charged up before noon the way we camp, so this has worked well.

d

[pianotuna]

As soon as one goes to a large inverter more capacity is a good thing. If planning on running heavy loads then 12 volt AGM may be the path to follow. I have 556 amp-hours total in four jars. It works well with the 3000 watt inverter.

[Muddydogs]

I purchase the 2 100 watt panel kit from Windy Nation 2 years ago for around $350 ish. I did the portable deal for a couple trips as I thought I need to due to shade and everything else guys post on this forum. 2 springs ago I mounted the 2 panels on my roof, ran the wires and hooked the system up.

The two panels keep my 2 group 24 battery charged up just fine, the last few trips out we have taken our 4 month old grandson so I have set the heater on 60 at night as the temps were getting down to the 40's. By noon my battery's have always been charged back up. Only time I find I need to run my generator is in the fall while hunting as the temps are in the 20's so the heater is running a lot and most times it's cloudy and of course the sun is at a low angle.

[Oldmax]

I use a panel set three 15 watt from HF just set them outside put controller inside they keep my two RV battrys up . on a limited use when dry camping i use for lights LED , 12 volt to run refer on propane. and water pump. the panels keep up .

[ewarnerusa]

Trackrig wrote:
You know Ewarnerusa, you just gave me an idea.

My TT has the front kitchen and the factory solar wiring comes right out of the bottom of the front wall because the batteries are right on the other side of the front wall sitting 4" away on the tongue.

What I can do is drill a hole down from one of the base cabinets through the floor, pull the factory wiring up into the cabinet, install the controller in the cabinet and run 2' of new wire back out to the batteries. That makes it lot easier than running new wiring down from the roof and puts the controller inside.

While studying this idea I'll wait a week to see if only comes up with a waterproof controller.

As for four batteries, you're right, I probably don't need them though I'm retired and do spend more than weekends out. I think it's just that I'm used to four of them in my MH? And I found a neat way to add the other two with a little bit of welding.

Bill

Well I don't think anyone ever complains that they have too much battery capacity available! But it does mean that you've got more battery to maintain and properly charge. So I mainly just wanted to point out that 2x6V batteries used in an ordinary manner, plus 200-300 watts of solar, and you'll probably never be running low on 12V power as long as the sun is shining. Boon docker posted an example of their battery life with 2x6V plus solar that is similar to our experience. We don't worry about battery charge, just how much fresh water and food is left.

Now if you run a large inverter to regularly operate high draw appliances off of battery like coffee machines or microwaves, or run a residential compressor fridge with 120V AC power, then you would probably need 4x6V batteries and 400-600 watts of solar just to keep up.

[Boon_Docker]

To give you some idea about battery life.
I have 200 watts of solar (MPPT controller) and 2 6v batteries (230ah). Never watch TV or listen to stereo. Run water pump, fridge (on propane), water heater (on propane), run 600 watt inverter (for charging lap top and camera batteries and occasionally a small fan), run furnace nightly and have LED lighting. My batteries never go below 65-70 Percent SOC.

[Trackrig]

You know Ewarnerusa, you just gave me an idea.

My TT has the front kitchen and the factory solar wiring comes right out of the bottom of the front wall because the batteries are right on the other side of the front wall sitting 4" away on the tongue.

What I can do is drill a hole down from one of the base cabinets through the floor, pull the factory wiring up into the cabinet, install the controller in the cabinet and run 2' of new wire back out to the batteries. That makes it lot easier than running new wiring down from the roof and puts the controller inside.

While studying this idea I'll wait a week to see if only comes up with a waterproof controller.

As for four batteries, you're right, I probably don't need them though I'm retired and do spend more than weekends out. I think it's just that I'm used to four of them in my MH? And I found a neat way to add the other two with a little bit of welding.

Bill

[ewarnerusa]

I'm all for solar, don't let me talk you out of it.
But why upgrade to 4x6V batteries? That is a lot of capacity, what is it needed for? If your camper power needs are "ordinary", as in lighting, water pump, furnace, and fridge, then 2x6V could last you through a long weekend without any recharging if you're being frugal with it. The 200-300 watts of solar that you mention is a good match for 2x6V batteries and would eliminate any worry about running out of 12V power if the sun is shining during a long weekend camp trip. So why the interest in doubling the battery capacity? That would mean you would need to double your solar wattage to 400-600 watts to make it useful for recharging that much battery in a reasonable amount of time.

I have not heard of a waterproof controller, either. I mounted mine in the pass through storage located at the front of my camper. I drilled a hole through the floor to pass the wiring through for a short wire length to the batteries on the tongue.