Solar assistance

[Oscar_P]

I have a solar panel that is rated at 315w@9a. My converter in the camper is a BW Model 6406, which apparently means it will allow me to run off of batteries for my electrical needs, but will not charge the batteries. I'm trying to set up a solar system, but am over my head with the information I've been gathering and I know I will run out of time before I get it all narrowed down and installed, so could y'all lend a little assistance?

I'm trying to figure out a decent set of batteries to run and which inverter to get to charge the batteries. My electrical needs are not huge, 3 lights that will have LED bulbs soon and one furnace fan. Electrical will not be used during the day, lights will only be used for about 1-2 hours max and furnace ran as long through the night as possible. I'll be boon-dock camping in the Colorado mountains, so no option of shore power for recharge and wanting to fight off the sub 32* nights.

Can anyone help guide me to the proper size batteries and inverter needed to be a close to self sustaining system working with what I already have? I'm not asking for anyone to do the shopping for me, just getting confused on the exact specs I need for this.

[3_tons]

Converter means to convert 120vac shore power to 12vdc for RV class appliances and charging batteries.

Inverter means to invert 12vdc battery power for certain 120vac appliances.

[thundercloud]

Could be time for an upgrade to a better more up to date converter that has a nice 3 or 4 stage charger built in. A new converter will automatically supply current to 12 volt DC and 120 AC based on if you are plugged into a power source or not. i.e. shore power or generator. No need to flip a switch to change between the two.

If you don't want to upgrade you converter you can easily add a solar system to your camper battery or batteries. It is a separate system from your converter wether you use your current one or upgrade to a new one.

The solar system is pretty easy to hook up. Solar panels from the roof are connected to a combiner box (used to add more solar panels in the future), then the combiner box is connected to a solar charge controller (preferably a mppt controller), from the solar charge controller you connect to your camper battery or batteries.

Hope this helps.

[AnEv942]

Oscar P wrote:
Now I'm really confused. I am following you on your explanation, the reading I have done on the BW 6406 says that it will allow you to run on either 12v or 120v by flipping a switch, but does not charge the batteries when hooked to shore power. Before I get too involved in this things, y'all please correct me in this.

***Tried to attach a picture to help out, but can't figure it out.***

Your BW 6406 IS a converter. IF plugged into shore converts AC to 12vDC current for USE (not charging as noted).
The switch simply turns off the DC output and draws/supplies 12v directly from battery for use. Or more accurately selects where 12v source is from-converter or battery.
It may have an AC receptacle on it but it will only supply AC if plugged in- does NOT not invert 12V DC to AC.

[Lwiddis]

Buddy heaters don’t heat the tanks which many RV factory heaters do. Buddy heaters don’t charge your batteries. Solar rechargers batteries which is needed daily and allows use of the RV’s heater. A buddy heater run overnight without adequate ventilation can kill you.

[davemhughes]

Lurking....interesting thread. I will be adding solar to mine so I appreciate the information.

[pianotuna]

Unvented combustion heaters are not safe. Heath issues are Oxygen depletion, Carbon Dioxide, and (worst) Carbon Monoxide. I won't use one.

Here are some simple flow charts.

solar-->charge controller-->battery bank.

For inverter:

battery bank-->inverter (to 120 volts)-->load (RV)

For shore power (or generator):

shore power-->RV breaker box-->converter-->battery bank-->12 volt devices in RV

[Oscar_P]

hedge wrote:
You still have your terms mixed up.

- Converter changes 120v to 12v, It also usually serves as the 12v and 120v distribution point having breakers for the 120v AC and fuses for the 12v DC side. Never seen a converter that doesn't charge the batteries.

- Charge controller is the piece that sits between solar panels and the batteries.

- Inverter takes 12v DC and inverts it to 120V AC, this is not usually an OEM installed piece.

Now I'm really confused. I am following you on your explanation, the reading I have done on the BW 6406 says that it will allow you to run on either 12v or 120v by flipping a switch, but does not charge the batteries when hooked to shore power. Before I get too involved in this things, y'all please correct me in this.

***Tried to attach a picture to help out, but can't figure it out.***

[hedge]

You still have your terms mixed up.

- Converter changes 120v to 12v, It also usually serves as the 12v and 120v distribution point having breakers for the 120v AC and fuses for the 12v DC side. Never seen a converter that doesn't charge the batteries.

- Charge controller is the piece that sits between solar panels and the batteries.

- Inverter takes 12v DC and inverts it to 120V AC, this is not usually an OEM installed piece.

[Oscar_P]

Wow, a flood of information since I last checked on this. Thank y'all very much for coming through.

Yes, I mixed up my terminology and apologize for that. I said converter simply because that's what it says on the front of the unit, "Power Converter". However research on that model shows that it does convert from 12v to 120v, but does not have the ability to charge batteries. When I said "inverter", I was referring to the unit that goes between the solar panel and the batteries to charge them.

I'm going to look into the buddy heaters. No more than I expect the run lights and such, I could get away with using the pickup batteries for running the lights and use the buddy heater for heating if need be. For that matter, I only really need the heat in the evening and morning when changing clothes and prepping food, so the buddy heater might allow me to forget the solar system completely at this time.

I'm going to read back through all the posts more carefully now and start doing more research. I just wanted to take a minute to say thanks for the help so far.

[deltabravo]

2oldman wrote:
I think he's mixing up terminology.

I think so to, including this statement (which says a converter doesn't charge is batteries.... but that what a converter DOES do, is charge the batteries.

Oscar P wrote:
My converter in the camper is a BW Model 6406, which apparently means it will allow me to run off of batteries for my electrical needs, but will not charge the batteries.

[work2much]

2oldman wrote:
I'd suggest you start by reading this: 12v side of life.

work2much wrote:
As far as inverters you need to calculate your max draw and size. 1000 Watts should be more than enough for your battery capacity..

I didn't see anything in his post indicating he needs an inverter. I think he's mixing up terminology.

After rereading again I think you are correct.

[kerrlakeRoo]

OP, as others have said, Go with the 6volt if possible, Fitznj also mentioned winter camping in a pop up and listed the buddy heater, if you are trying to heat a pop up as was listed in your earlier post, thats an almost continious user of heat. The Buddy heater will be more efficient use and wont deplete your battery like the furnace, and the Wave heaters may well be even better for your usage. Olympian 3 unit will be able to run at a very low heat level 3000 btuh on high and about 1600 btuh on low. with the small space your looking at, the tiny heater like this would greatly extend your battery time since it would not utilize electricity at all. You will also see very low consumption of propane vs a furnace type of heat production.

[2oldman]

I'd suggest you start by reading this: 12v side of life.

work2much wrote:
As far as inverters you need to calculate your max draw and size. 1000 Watts should be more than enough for your battery capacity..

I didn't see anything in his post indicating he needs an inverter. I think he's mixing up terminology.

[work2much]

Aside from fuses and cables you need 4 basic components. Panels, batteries, solar charge controller and inverter to make your 120v power. Your solar charge controller will need to be an mppt type to deal with the high voltage panel you have. For cheap units many like the epever. For a quality unit I like Victron.

As far as batteries I would go with a pair of 6v true deep cycle like Trojans if they fit your compartment. I also recommend a shunt based battery monitor. Again Victron makes a good one.

As far as inverters you need to calculate your max draw and size. 1000 Watts should be more than enough for your battery capacity.

Keep cable lengths from battery to inverter as short as possible. Use a voltage drop calculator to determine correct gauge of cable.