Spacer under camper - manufacturer "approved" solution?

[BoilerEE]

Just got our new (used) 07 Eagle Cap 1160, and needed to throw a bunch of 2x6's under it to get it to clear the bed rails of my 07.5 Sierra. I've seen a couple of different home brew solutions, but was wondering what the TC manufacturers say is the "right" way to do it - anybody asked "officially"?

[dadwolf2]

Even if you don't need a spacer to raise the camper, would a 1" sheet of rigid insulation be helpful for the insulation properties, or if you don't need to raise the camper, would the increased height be more of a detriment?

[BoilerEE]

OK, finally got my act together and refreshed myself on how to post pics, so here's my spacer:

[BoilerEE]

So, a quick update on what I ended up doing - I took everyone's advice and sort of came up with a "hybrid" design using both lumber and foam. I built a perimeter frame of 2x6's around the sides and rear with a 2x3 at the front and then filled the middle section with 1.5" Foamular 250 rigid XPS foam. Pretty happy with the results since I think it's relatively light, supports the entire floor, and also doesn't make me worry about compressibility of the foam since the largest load-bearing areas are supported by the lumber. I'll take a picture at some point ...

[jroddick]

BoilerEE wrote:
Thanks for all of the replies everyone - Jeffrey, yours in particular looks super clean - nice work - did you build the side storage boxes yourself?

I just called Adventurer/EagleCap and they pretty much didn't have any specific info on the '07 since the company has changed hands so many times. His recommendation was to support the entire floor since that's the way it's designed, which makes sense I guess. Maybe a "composite" approach might make it light and strong - like maybe 1" of high density foam + a sheet of 3/4" ply or something ...

Thanks. I did do it myself. Got the baggage doors for a pittance on ebay and ordered some Filon and trim from my local RV shop. One nice thing about wood framed campers is that they're easy to modify.

[travelnutz]

I agree with Reddog1 that magic43 needs angular truss bracing or a solid vertical crossmember from side on edge 2 X 6 to side on edge 2 X 6 under and secured to the top camper support 2 X 6 at both ends min to prevent racking which will only get worse over time until disaster occurs. Will also give needed support to the TC floor in the center areas. Angular truss bracing would still allow for some long item storage in the riser depending on the TC's design.

[elgy]

This is my solution, I needed 3 1/2" so 2X4s on edge, the rear section is filled with styrofoam insulation and the front part is for my plywood X supports to steady the camper when it is off the truck.
I have added a step at the rear since I run with the tailgate off. The step is held on with four bolts for easy removal.



Here are the X supports stowed, the narrow plywood is the base for the supports, with the 4 pieces of 3/4" plywood plus strips it is 1/4" above the 2X4s, so that's what takes the weight.


And my X supports... all this will be painted when the snow is gone and the temperature is above freezing!

[hedge]

I also used the pink insulation, 3" thick in two layers. I had to do a bit of framing around my 5th wheel rails so I ended up with a perimeter frame of 2x4's with the inner area filled in with the foam.

It worked well but I no longer need it with the new camper.

[Redsky]

The rigid pink insulating sheets sold at Home Depot work very well and come in 1/2", 1", and 2" thicknesses. With a 1" sheet and my 3400 lb. camper there was no compression of the sheet. It cuts with a box cutter and weighs next to nothing and it will not absorb water or warp like a plywood sheet will do.

I have the pink sheet on the bottom and then a rubber mat and then the camper. No sliding at all. When the camper is off the truck I leave the pink sheet and the truck mat in place. The rubber bed mat weighs a lot more than the pink insulation.

[69_Avion]

BoilerEE wrote:
Just did some snooping around in the basement area with a flashlight, and it looks like the main structure is supported by the outer edges and there's one longitudinal structural piece that runs right about in the middle with holding tanks on either side. I think I'm going to try some 2x6's laid flat under each side and down the middle under that spar, plus ones at the front and rear width-wise. The floor of the basement is 1" or 1 1/4" ply, so I'm not terribly concerned about support under the whole thing. Only going to use 2x6's because of the longitudinal "ribbing" on my truck bed - I think a 2x4 would be prone to get in between them and not spread the load well.

You are correct in needing to "spread the load" across your truck bed. You don't want all the weight on one side ending up on one sheet metal rib. There are pictures on this forum of some truck beds cracking because of too much weight being placed in one area. If you look under your truck bed you will notice reinforcing ribs which are usually where the bolts are that hold the bed to the frame. It is a good idea to have these point being load bearing. It is also a good idea to have camper guides that keep the camper centered once it is in place and a stop to keep the camper from bending the front of the bed.

Example:

[BoilerEE]

Just did some snooping around in the basement area with a flashlight, and it looks like the main structure is supported by the outer edges and there's one longitudinal structural piece that runs right about in the middle with holding tanks on either side. I think I'm going to try some 2x6's laid flat under each side and down the middle under that spar, plus ones at the front and rear width-wise. The floor of the basement is 1" or 1 1/4" ply, so I'm not terribly concerned about support under the whole thing. Only going to use 2x6's because of the longitudinal "ribbing" on my truck bed - I think a 2x4 would be prone to get in between them and not spread the load well.

[69_Avion]

I had to raise my camper 1-1/2" so I just used a couple of 3/4" pieces of OSB that I painted. I would prefer something lighter like dense foam, but the OSB has worked well.

[magic43]

Reddog1 wrote:
Respectfully, it looks to me that there is nothing to prevent the platform from racking, and falling against the wheel wells. Two 2x6, on edge between the side 2x6s would solve that as a potential problem. Wayne

The camper bottom is sprayed with bed liner from the factory and in well over 12K miles, there has never been any movement on the platform.

I certainly do see your reason for concern and the potential problem. As a precautionary measure, I will add a ledge of some sort.

Even with kiln dried material, weight adds up very fast.

[BoilerEE]

Thanks for all of the replies everyone - Jeffrey, yours in particular looks super clean - nice work - did you build the side storage boxes yourself?

I just called Adventurer/EagleCap and they pretty much didn't have any specific info on the '07 since the company has changed hands so many times. His recommendation was to support the entire floor since that's the way it's designed, which makes sense I guess. Maybe a "composite" approach might make it light and strong - like maybe 1" of high density foam + a sheet of 3/4" ply or something ...

[Reddog1]

magic43 wrote:
I had to build one that would raise mine 7". A 2X6 upright and another flatways made it exactly right.

I left those "wings" in front of the rear wheel wells which insures that it will not slip backwards.

Respectfully, it looks to me that there is nothing to prevent the platform from racking, and falling against the wheel wells. Two 2x6, on edge between the side 2x6s would solve that as a potential problem.

With platforms in general, I prefer kiln dried lumber, but only because it is lighter in weight, making it easier to remove the platform. Strength or rot is not an issue with any lumber for this application.

Wayne