Suburban SW6P Water Heater Gas Valve Issue

[dacraven]

Hello!

I have a 2002 Keystone Springdale with the Suburban WS6P 6 gallon water heater with the standard manual pilot light (NO ELECTRIC IGNITION) and cannot get gas flow through the main line for the burner after the pilot is lit.

I can light the pilot just fine, good, solid blue flame, and have been able to get gas flow through the main burner with good flow and color once or twice while troubleshooting, so I know flow is not restricted, but now only the pilot will light and as soon as I release the pilot and/or move the gas cock to "On", gas flow to both the pilot and the main burner stop altogether. At this point, I only get gas to the pilot when depressed for lighting, but nothing else. The pilot won't even stay lit.

I troubleshot the lack of gas flow initially by using compressed air to blow out the lines all the way into the gas regulator valve. I disassembled both the pilot line and manifold outlet and blew them out with no problems. I blew each line individually so I could try and determine where gas flow was being obstructed, and all lines were clear except I seemed to only get air coming into the gas valve and out through outlet manifold when I held the pilot in the down position (while blowing air in from the line that adjoins the intake elbow into the gas valve).

With the gas off, I opened the gas valve (or regulator box) and everything appears to be functioning to the best of my understanding and analysis except for the possibility of a spring loaded rubber bushing that appears to allow flow into the outlet manifold which I assume is triggered by the gas cock knob moving to the on position, but have been unsuccessful in finding the functions of these parts inside the gas valve in any manual online, including my own.

I don't see that I have any problem with the thermocouple as I still can get get gas flow to the pilot (as long as I have it pressed down to light). For some reason, I just can't get gas to flow once I move it to "on" or release the pilot.

I feel that I have been very thorough in my "investigation" and I don't see this as a complicated device, but I am not sure what else to do and I have looked at how much it is to replace the gas valve and/or water heater entirely and I would like to avoid a $300 bill, not to mention the labor.

I have seen similar problems in other forums, but to no resolution thus far. Any recommendations or tips on solving this problem would be greatly appreciated!

Below is the unit I have..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-LP-6-GALLON-SUBURBAN-WATER-HEATER-SW6P-PILOT-/251967129435?hash=item3aaa6...

Dan C.

[ScottG]

The first (cheap/free) thing I would do is clean the flame sensor with a small brass brush. Enough carbon can insulate it to the point it wont work.

[Old-Biscuit]

dacraven wrote:
Old Biscuit you are the man.

pilot was aimed way off from the thermocouple, I gently re-positioned it and lit the pilot allowing it to heat up a little bit and switched it to on and BOOM, flows beautifully.

I have learned a little more each year in the maintenance and repair of my trailer as it's gotten a bit older and made some mistakes, but your advice has paid off for me, thank you for saving me the extra time and money. Much appreciated.

Glad it was just pilot flame in wrong position..easy FREE fix

This is a gas control.......large probe is the ECO'
one time/one shot thermal device.....trips if water temp reaches 190*F
Then you have to replace gas control......$150 PLUS

If it has tripped you can light pilot but not keep it lit

[dacraven]

Old Biscuit you are the man.

pilot was aimed way off from the thermocouple, I gently re-positioned it and lit the pilot allowing it to heat up a little bit and switched it to on and BOOM, flows beautifully.

I have learned a little more each year in the maintenance and repair of my trailer as it's gotten a bit older and made some mistakes, but your advice has paid off for me, thank you for saving me the extra time and money. Much appreciated.

[Old-Biscuit]

dacraven wrote:
My regulator or water heater has never been replaced, since we bought it in '05, it's an '02. Likely to be aged, but is only used a few times a year, which maybe could be part of the problem also I suppose.

I did NOT verify the position of the thermocouple over the flow of gas from the pilot however, that I will check, but would that also explain the pilot not staying lit as well?

I don't believe I have an ECO on my model as it has no electrical components. The unit is strictly manually lit and there is no reset. I have not replaced the anode as well, I have only discovered I needed to upon this issue arising.

Very helpful, thank you

Things that will shut off pilot when button released:
A weak thermocouple will drop pilot flame out------replace
A weak magnet in gas control valve will drop out pilot....replace gas control valve
A tripped ECO


The 3 things above will drop pilot flame when button released/turned to ON

And YES you have an ECO.

Like I explained it is the large probe that sticks out,,,....nevermind.
Dan C.

[dacraven]

My regulator or water heater has never been replaced, since we bought it in '05, it's an '02. Likely to be aged, but is only used a few times a year, which maybe could be part of the problem also I suppose.

I did NOT verify the position of the thermocouple over the flow of gas from the pilot however, that I will check, but would that also explain the pilot not staying lit as well?

I don't believe I have an ECO on my model as it has no electrical components. The unit is strictly manually lit and there is no reset. I have not replaced the anode as well, I have only discovered I needed to upon this issue arising.

Very helpful, thank you

Dan C.

[dacraven]

Negative,

knob was turned on in full position. Pilot still goes out as well once I've released it, even before moving to on.

Dan C.

[Old-Biscuit]

Gas control is NOT serviceable......that is why you don't/won't find info/manuals

Things that will shut off pilot when button released:
A weak thermocouple will drop pilot flame out------replace
A weak magnet in gas control valve will drop out pilot....replace gas control valve
A tripped ECO (one time/one shot high temp t-stat 190*F) will drop out pilot flame.....replace gas control valve (The ECO can be tripped by a 'large pilot flame due to mods on orifice)

Pilot flame MUST engulf tip of thermocouple and heat it.
When heated thermocouple generates a milivot signal that holds magnet in gas control allowing gas to flow thru main orifice (12 milivots needed)

IF ECO (Energy Cut OFF------large temp probe that comes out back of gas control and sticks thru WH tank wall into water) trips.......done/no reset

So you have 3 choices......
You could try cleaning off thermocouple with some emery cloth and make sure pilot flame is positioned so it engulfs tip

Replace thermocouple (part# 161156)

Replace expensive gas control valve (part # 161111)

[newman_fulltime]

How old is your regulator it could be bad

[dacraven]

Hi Jeremiah,

Seems easy enough, I will have to double check, but I think I have turned it farther or at least been aware of making sure the knob was properly lined up in previous lighting attempts with no luck. At least before, I have never had a problem with it cranking on once I switched to "on", but I'll take any help I can get at this point.

I'll post my re-evaluation of that.

Thank you!

Dan C.

[jerem0621]

You have to twist the knob a little past on to get the burner to light. There is a line next to the word ON... Twist the knob past on until the line lines up with the indicator.

Not sure if that will fix the problem, but it got mine going.

I hope this helps.

Thanks!

Jeremiah