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Superhitch and Truss

lap527
Explorer
Explorer
After a recent discussion on the superhitch and truss it looks like unbeknownst to us our assembly might be wrong (sumting wong). I am posting a few pics to show what we have. No collars or spacers to prevent pinched fingers. Please feel free to comment.



2006 Dodge 3500 dually 4X4 / 2013 Livin Lite 10.0 TC /Torklift talons, fastguns, stableloads, superhitch, and truss/ towing a
14'V Nose Trailer when needed.
20 REPLIES 20

finsruskw
Explorer
Explorer
The bands are what makes it a truss

lap527
Explorer
Explorer
Keep it coming...I love the discussion.
2006 Dodge 3500 dually 4X4 / 2013 Livin Lite 10.0 TC /Torklift talons, fastguns, stableloads, superhitch, and truss/ towing a
14'V Nose Trailer when needed.

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
~DJ~ wrote:
Kayteg1 wrote:
I think the bands allow for truss movement.
I am researching the stinger hitch and I think for better strength it suppose to be welded, although it will make installation harder.


It may make it impossible. 🙂


If everything is done correctly, 2 parallels trusses should go into parallel receivers easy, but any bend will require sledge hammer for removal.
The point is that with clamps allowing movements, you do have 2 single truss working together and as I observe on the road, they do flex.
When you weld them few inches at the end, you are making tall I-beam that more than double the strength/stiffness.
Now the stiffness will transfer on the hitch, so all the movements from trailer will go on the truck hitch frame without cushion, what will put the frame to the test.

jmckelvy
Explorer
Explorer
Kayteg1 wrote:
I think the bands allow for truss movement.
............


I suppose in the limit they might. Mine are tightly coupled together after torquing the U-bracket bolts down and do not normally move with respect to each other.
06 RAM 3500,Dually,CTD,Auto(ATS Stage 1),QC,4X4,PacBrake,Spyntec Freespin Hubs,60 Gal Titan Tank,EFI Live, Line-X,Torklifts and SuperHitch,Fastguns
2013 Arctic Fox 990, 275 Watts Solar, 2 Grp 31 AGMs
US Navy 1964-1968, 2-Tour Vietnam Vet

lap527
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks boys and girls, I sent torklift a few pics so will wait to see what they say. They have always had great customer support.
2006 Dodge 3500 dually 4X4 / 2013 Livin Lite 10.0 TC /Torklift talons, fastguns, stableloads, superhitch, and truss/ towing a
14'V Nose Trailer when needed.

_DJ_1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Kayteg1 wrote:
I think the bands allow for truss movement.
I am researching the stinger hitch and I think for better strength it suppose to be welded, although it will make installation harder.


It may make it impossible. 🙂
'17 Class C 22' Conquest on Ford E 450 with V 10. 4000 Onan, Quad 6 volt AGMs, 515 watts solar.
'12 Northstar Liberty on a '16 Super Duty 6.2. Twin 6 volt AGMs with 300 watts solar.

lap527
Explorer
Explorer
AnEv942 wrote:
Hmm yes with one 'u-collar' I can see now how it could pivot/scissor closed. Ouch.
Maybe optical illusion, looks like the gap between the 2 tubes isn't uniform? Adding second clamp it wouldnt need to be so tight that tubes couldnt still pivot a bit if needed for insertion. But doesnt look like dealer error-, still think I'd add second clamp.

Im noting the use of the quick links..were those dealer installed? Ive never had luck with them long term-threads gall if high load seen (or me reefing on em).

..edit- with the tubes removed from hitch and the single bolt clamp at opposit end, theres nothing other than friction to keep the ends from closing, unless your finger(s) is between the tubes.

Yes, all of it was dealer installed. The dealer also cut off the ends of our rear torklift tie downs, another long story, but they ordered new ones and installed them correctly, after I contacted torklift. We now know WHO NOT TO GO TO if we need something done to our TC. It has been one thing after another. I sometimes wonder why we got a bag of washers and leftover parts after it was said and done. LOL!
2006 Dodge 3500 dually 4X4 / 2013 Livin Lite 10.0 TC /Torklift talons, fastguns, stableloads, superhitch, and truss/ towing a
14'V Nose Trailer when needed.

AnEv942
Nomad
Nomad
Hmm yes with one 'u-collar' I can see now how it could pivot/scissor closed. Ouch.
Maybe optical illusion, looks like the gap between the 2 tubes isn't uniform? Adding second clamp it wouldnt need to be so tight that tubes couldnt still pivot a bit if needed for insertion. But doesnt look like dealer error-, still think I'd add second clamp.

Im noting the use of the quick links..were those dealer installed? Ive never had luck with them long term-threads gall if high load seen (or me reefing on em).

..edit- with the tubes removed from hitch and the single bolt clamp at opposit end, theres nothing other than friction to keep the ends from closing, unless your finger(s) is between the tubes.
01 Ford F250 4x4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
Our camper projects page http://www.ourelkhorn.itgo.com

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I think the bands allow for truss movement.
I am researching the stinger hitch and I think for better strength it suppose to be welded, although it will make installation harder.
I actually follow a pickup pulling with supertruss and it was visibly bending on freeway bumps.
IMHO they are overpriced as well.
What if I fabricate something on my own? I think I can do it better & cheaper, but will I get lawyers on my back?

_DJ_1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Reddog1 wrote:
With my experience in welding/fabrication, I still cannot see the pinch points. Something has to be flexed/under tension.


Without a "band' "collar" or whatever you want to call it at both ends of the truss the ends that are stuck into the hitch can collapse in to each other (top one falls own to the bottom one) when removed from the hitch. If your fingers are between the shafts they will get pinched.

I bought my 21" truss in '05 and it came with two bands.
'17 Class C 22' Conquest on Ford E 450 with V 10. 4000 Onan, Quad 6 volt AGMs, 515 watts solar.
'12 Northstar Liberty on a '16 Super Duty 6.2. Twin 6 volt AGMs with 300 watts solar.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
With my experience in welding/fabrication, I still cannot see the pinch points. Something has to be flexed/under tension.


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

lap527
Explorer
Explorer
Bedlam wrote:
There are two trusses coming out of the two receivers. If you only have one collar the trusses will not stay separated and will fall on each other when removed. With two collars, the separation is held and will not pinch your hand. Sorry, no pictures to illustrate this.

Yup, exactly! :B
2006 Dodge 3500 dually 4X4 / 2013 Livin Lite 10.0 TC /Torklift talons, fastguns, stableloads, superhitch, and truss/ towing a
14'V Nose Trailer when needed.

Bedlam
Moderator
Moderator
There are two trusses coming out of the two receivers. If you only have one collar the trusses will not stay separated and will fall on each other when removed. With two collars, the separation is held and will not pinch your hand. Sorry, no pictures to illustrate this.

Host Mammoth 11.5 on Ram 5500 HD

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
For give me guys, but I do not have a Superhitch and do not see the pinch point in the photos. Could someone please point them out using arrows in a photo?

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke