Supplemental AC

[mrp116]

My wife and owned a 2014 Jayco Whitehawk 28DSBH. When we ordered it, we ordered the upgraded AC unit and insulation package. We never had any issues with staying cool inside during the summer. A few months ago, we decided to sell our Whitehawk and take over my FIL's 2016 Jayco Jayflight 28 RLS because of not needing the bunks any longer. His camper is parked five spots down, at the same RV Park, where we have an annual lease on the lake. His camper (ours now) does not cool adequatley for us. This unit has the standard 13.5 BTU unit and no extra insulation package. What is the best way we can add supplemental AC to this camper? The air coming out of the unit is around 55 degrees. So I do not believe that the AC unit is faulty, but we are in full sun, and I suspect it has more to do with the insulation.

[afidel]

wowens79 wrote:
One thing that really helped ours, and was less than $20, was I cut 2 inch foam like in a cushion and put pieces in the shower skylight, and the vent. I cut them a little oversized, and just squeeze them in and they stay in place.
I was shocked how much it helped.

Camco makes a commercial version for about the same $. We've been very happy with them both for peak summer and during freezing temps with the silver side down.

[wnjj]

TomG2 wrote:
If water is free and plentiful, I set a timer to "sprinkle" the trailer down three or four times an hour. (The evaporating water acts like a swamp cooler and brings the skin temperature down.)

That’s an interesting idea and I can see that helping quite a bit. You probably want to make sure it’s not hard water that will leave crusties behind when it evaporates.

[wowens79]

One thing that really helped ours, and was less than $20, was I cut 2 inch foam like in a cushion and put pieces in the shower skylight, and the vent. I cut them a little oversized, and just squeeze them in and they stay in place.
I was shocked how much it helped.

[mrp116]

Sportsmen wrote:
We have a 2016 JayFlight 27BHS. Anytime the temps get much over 90 degrees, parked in the sun, it does not cool down like it should. It has the 15 k AC unit, tinted windows, blocked off skylight, etc, etc and is still hot inside. Since I already own a 6k window unit I fashioned a removable bracket and I put the unit in the side front bedroom window. Seal around the sides of the unit with foam board and the place is like an ice chest now. This has solved the problem of parking in direct sunlight as well as small grand kids that like to stand on the steps with the door open. And from the outside it looks o.k.,, BTW, I power the unit with an extension cord to the electrical pedestal. Is it a perfect arrangement ? No, but it works and cost me $150.00 out of pocket... Hope this helps

This does help. Thank you.

[TomG2]

My $1,500 carport took roof temperature down from 132 degrees to 95 degrees on a 95 degree day in South Texas.

[Second_Chance]

CA Traveler wrote:
Seal all leaks and add insulation on the windows will help.

This^^^. Reflectix (AKA "bubble foil") works well in the windows. Cut it to fit tightly inside the window frames on the inside and push it in. You can get it at any home improvement store.

Any shade you can provide on the east side in the morning and west side in the evening (awnings, sun screen, etc.) is also a big help.

Rob

[jdc1]

Build a sun shelter over it. They come in kits.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/VersaTube-12-ft-W-x-29-ft-L-x-12-ft-H-Steel-Carport-CM012290120/100659732?mtc=Shopping-B-F_Brand-G-Multi-NA-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Catchall_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_Brand-G-Multi-NA-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-Catchall_PLA-71700000014585962-58700001236285396-92700010802552436&gclid=CjwKCAjwt-L2BRA_EiwAacX32eW0aKQkxOj7i3bkB3CcxoKw3bQ6E2fdgpp2jQl3huz5f-bh99YsMhoC2JIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[wanderingaimles]

Add a mini split AC unit. small 8-12k btuh units are out there that are 120 volt, and could be added for just the front bedroom (assuming that your layout)
They are hire higher efficiency and lower power usage than rooftop units generally are and at a permanent site should not be a problem running off a 20 amp outlet from the pedestal.
mr cool install
Units are available from hardware big boxes as well as Amazon and others.

[Cocky_Camper]

Put reflective materials in the windows, or use room darkening curtains. Add insulating pillows to the roof vents.

[valhalla360]

Can you close off bedroom/bathroom and shut the vents to those areas?
DIY improvements to insulation - vent pillows, seal holes, make sure slides are sealing well, clear plastic window covers, etc...

Upgrading to 15k btu is a marginal upgrade for significant cost.

Adding additional air/con units is problematic with only 30amp. If you aren't careful, it's really easy to overload the electrical system.

[TomG2]

A couple of more tricks:

Cover floor vents if so equipped. (Cold sinks into them)

If water is free and plentiful, I set a timer to "sprinkle" the trailer down three or four times an hour. (The evaporating water acts like a swamp cooler and brings the skin temperature down.)

[Sportsmen]

double post, sorry

[Sportsmen]

We have a 2016 JayFlight 27BHS. Anytime the temps get much over 90 degrees, parked in the sun, it does not cool down like it should. It has the 15 k AC unit, tinted windows, blocked off skylight, etc, etc and is still hot inside. Since I already own a 6k window unit I fashioned a removable bracket and I put the unit in the side front bedroom window. Seal around the sides of the unit with foam board and the place is like an ice chest now. This has solved the problem of parking in direct sunlight as well as small grand kids that like to stand on the steps with the door open. And from the outside it looks o.k.,, BTW, I power the unit with an extension cord to the electrical pedestal. Is it a perfect arrangement ? No, but it works and cost me $150.00 out of pocket... Hope this helps

[cavie]

Inside dark window tint like you car. MaxAir covers for you vents. Inside tint for skylights if you have one. Curtins for the windows. Add ceiling fan.