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Tips on sealing screws into outside paneling

ElementZero
Explorer
Explorer
I need to screw a few things into the outside of my travel trailer and was wondering about sealing or even if I needed to seal screws.

1) Tiny screws just to screw in some level gauges
2) Big screws that will go through the back of the outside wall into a stud, these will be used to support an antenna.

Obviously I don't want any leaks so a) do I need to seal these (I assume the latter but not sure about the former) and if so b) what should I used to seal the screws?

Thanks!
----------------
(TV) 2014 Nissan NV3500 SL
(TT) 2015 Keystone 3290BH
Been fulltiming sine June 1st, 2015.
EvenThePets.com
10 REPLIES 10

LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
3oaks wrote:
LarryJM wrote:

IMO that is the best and it's important to basically "entomb" the entire head of the screw or over time rust will work it's way around the head and down thru the screw threads causing a leak.

Larry
I've seen that happen before. That's why I use stainless steel hardware, not just shiny chrome plated carbon steel screws. Boating supply and accessory outlets are a very good source of all kinds of stainless steel hardware. More expensive but worth the extra cost.


I agree that SS screws are the best, but with the number of exterior screws a more cost effective alternative is something to consider. I guess the biggest point is the typical, fill the hole with "stuff" and then reinsert the screw is not going to give you the really long term reliability that a lot think.

These "wicking screws" along with the slow leaks that are almost guaranteed to develop in the four corners on most roofs due to the water ponding caused by the end cap roof seam and end side molding that runs up onto the roof are almost impossible to detect until the damage is so major.

Almost ALL CAULKING with the exception of some of the 3M Marine "Adhesives/sealants" are not designed as "PRIMARY" or "SUBMERSIBLE" capable and need to be used with those limitations understood. That is why Eternabond and 3M 4000UV series products are all I use on the exterior of my TT now.

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL

ROBERTSUNRUS
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
I mounted this mega size level to the front of our rig using an extreme mounting tape similar to this and the level hasn't moved in the slightest.



I personally wouldn't ever drill any holes in the side of the trailer unless it was absolutely necessary, such as for supporting awning brackets ... for me, an antenna just isn't important enough. That said, if you're going to do it anyway you'd want to screw into studs within the wall and make sure you seal the holes with non sag lap sealant such as ProFlex.



๐Ÿ™‚ Hi, I'm with SoundGuy; I used two sided tape (3M gray or black) to install levels and other items on my trailer. Don't drill into your trailer especially for light weight items.
๐Ÿ™‚ Bob ๐Ÿ™‚
2005 Airstream Safari 25-B
2000 Lincoln Navigator
2014 F-150 Ecoboost
Equal-i-zer
Yamaha 2400

westend
Explorer
Explorer
LarryJM wrote:
westend wrote:
If you have a small piece of Eternabond tape, it seals screws well--Video


IMO that is the best and it's important to basically "entomb" the entire head of the screw or over time rust will work it's way around the head and down thru the screw threads causing a leak.

Larry

When I put the solar panel mounting brackets on the trailer roof, I laid them over a length of Eternabond. I then screwed through the bracket holes, through the tape, through the aluminum skin, and into a rafter. The tape enclosed the screws just like shown in the video.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

3oaks
Explorer
Explorer
LarryJM wrote:

IMO that is the best and it's important to basically "entomb" the entire head of the screw or over time rust will work it's way around the head and down thru the screw threads causing a leak.

Larry
I've seen that happen before. That's why I use stainless steel hardware, not just shiny chrome plated carbon steel screws. Boating supply and accessory outlets are a very good source of all kinds of stainless steel hardware. More expensive but worth the extra cost.

LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
westend wrote:
If you have a small piece of Eternabond tape, it seals screws well--Video


IMO that is the best and it's important to basically "entomb" the entire head of the screw or over time rust will work it's way around the head and down thru the screw threads causing a leak.

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL

westend
Explorer
Explorer
If you have a small piece of Eternabond tape, it seals screws well--Video
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
I mounted this mega size level to the front of our rig using an extreme mounting tape similar to this and the level hasn't moved in the slightest.



I personally wouldn't ever drill any holes in the side of the trailer unless it was absolutely necessary, such as for supporting awning brackets ... for me, an antenna just isn't important enough. That said, if you're going to do it anyway you'd want to screw into studs within the wall and make sure you seal the holes with non sag lap sealant such as ProFlex.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

3oaks
Explorer
Explorer
93Cobra2771 wrote:
Yes, you need to seal them. A non silicone based sealant would be best. Drill hole, shoot some in hole, and shoot some around screw prior to screwing it in. I like a little bit to squish out from around the screw, then I know I have plenty. Wipe off excess and you are good to go.
That is the same procedure I use too.

93Cobra2771
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, you need to seal them. A non silicone based sealant would be best. Drill hole, shoot some in hole, and shoot some around screw prior to screwing it in. I like a little bit to squish out from around the screw, then I know I have plenty. Wipe off excess and you are good to go.
Richard White
2011 F150 Ecoboost SCREW 145" 4x4
Firestone Ride-Rite Air Springs/Air Lift Wireless Controller
2006 Sportsmen by KZ 2604P (30')
Hensley Arrow

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
I just used Goop to stick my levels on, no holes.
bumpy