Took pics of roof Maybe this is causing the leaks??

[NJRedneck1986]

here are a few shots of the front of the roof above the leak in my wall. i circled the areas that i think are bad. but i know there are more expert on roofs here then me. let me know what i should do.




And what are these spots? is the roof bad and need a new one installed?


Y'all are soo helpful i am soo thankful i am a part of this website! thanks in advance.

[Campfire_Time]

I had a similar situation on my previous trailer. A small leak on the front left side of the trailer. I pulled the caulking off the screw heads and they were rusted. That means water is getting in. I pulled all the caulking off the retainer bar and removed all the screws. I was then able to pull up the edge of the front wrap around and see the damp wood. Nothing was rotted beyond a small section that only went a centimeter deep. I cleaned all that out, propped it so it stayed open for a couple of days, and let it dry out. I put the whole back together with new screws and covered it with Eternabond tape. No more leak. And when I traded the trailer the dealer didn't bat an eyelash.

[NJRedneck1986]

Sounds like im gonna have to do a full roof inspection and check everything on the trailer. thanks again yall

[Arnold_Wagaman]

I fixed leaks on two different trailers, both leaked at the screws that held the awning in place. Hope this might help.

[westend]

Sure, that area that is missing caulk could be the cause of your leak. Then again, when water enters a structure it can travel along any framing members from above and exit in the interior in a different location.

I have a lot of time invested in my rig so I do a pressurized leak test every year. It is easy to do and i have a squirrel cage blower that is just right for the pressures needed. IIRC, the commercial Sealtech testing is around $100 but may be a bit more. I do know that an undiscovered leak that's allowed to continue and cause framing damage is a LOT more.

[NJRedneck1986]

Thanks Y'all im gonna get some dico or take it to the shop down the road and see how much for them to redo the seems and windowws etc.

[the_bear_II]

Also check the sealant around your windows.

[ScottG]

DiskDoctr wrote:
Those cracks are typical of how caulking fails over time and requires re-caulking every few years.

See, it is possible to answer your question without sending you to a shop :R

Not that a leak test is a bad idea, but it is to find leaks you DON'T see 😉

X2. I don't care whether they're leaking or not. You should always seal up cracks and holes in your roof.

[DiskDoctr]

Those cracks are typical of how caulking fails over time and requires re-caulking every few years.

See, it is possible to answer your question without sending you to a shop :R

Not that a leak test is a bad idea, but it is to find leaks you DON'T see 😉

[donn0128]

Before wasting time and money on maybies, find a shop that can do a sealtest. Pay them the hundred or so dollars and know for sure.

[korbe]

Can't quite tell if the pics are at the joint where the front cap meets the membrane, but on my 5er I have been applying Dicor lap sealant just about each year because of the separation that seems to occur because of the shifting and movement of the different surfaces.