TorkLift Upper Stable loads installation?

[Blanco1]

Have any of you installed them before?

I just got my set & ready to install them especially being I'm considering a multi slide out Camper up-grade.

Looks simple enough on how to do the job.
Tomorrow is my 1st free day in a while & while I have so many other things I need to do, I'm hoping to fit tho into the days schedule.

I've looked on youtube & can't find a single video?

I'm assuming being its such a no Brainer that nobody has bother with posting a video?

Am I right?

I'm not the mechanically inclined guy I use to be in my youth.

Thanks in advance for any helpful info you might have in advance.

[Blanco1]

I see no holes!

[okan-star]

Like I said ,I have no need or want to put those on my 99 Dodge but my upper overload brackets are different than the ones you have , there vulcanized rubber that's flat w/ angled at both ends , I`ve read here that guys have left on the rubber and drilled thru - I believe they said there was a hole in the metal
I would bet Dodge didn't change the holes in the frame , maybe you could go to a yard and find some brackets off a 99- 02
Or cut the rubber off yours and weld a flat on yours
Have you called Torklift ,that would have been the first thing I would have done , they should fit , they cost like 350.00 don't they ?
For that you could buy new rear leafs

[AnEv942]

Could the top of existing pad be pried up enough to verify if pre existing hole?
Seems as though by others comments rubber doesn't come off, possibly a nub that uses hole.
They don't 'look' like they are vulcanized on- But if there is a hole clearancing the rubber easier than drilling. But if required removing bracket certainly would be less a pain in the long run.

[Blanco1]

Reddog1 wrote:
Maybe I am missing something, but why not unbolt the brackets and drill the holes?

Unless you have the TC loaded in the photos, I don't see how the Stable Loads will ever not be engaged. As I recall, the Stable Loads are about 2" or more thick, and I only see about 1" or less between your bracket and spring.

Well that's my question, I guess I'm suppose to remove them & drill the holes & then reinstall them?

But of course the flat pad on such a curve concerns me.

I was hoping someone here has done this already that could show me a picture of how theirs turned out.

[Blanco1]

The camper is on the truck now & pretty much always is, & fully loaded pretty always ready to go.

[Bedlam]

If that is all the clearance between the overload spring and pad when empty, the Energy Suspension pads would be a better fit height. They compress to about half the height of a StableLoad before engaging the spring tension. If the camper is never offloaded from the truck, the StableLoads would be fine. Running an empty truck with the overloads engaged would discourage you from repeating that drive.

[Reddog1]

Maybe I am missing something, but why not unbolt the brackets and drill the holes?

Unless you have the TC loaded in the photos, I don't see how the Stable Loads will ever not be engaged. As I recall, the Stable Loads are about 2" or more thick, and I only see about 1" or less between your bracket and spring.

[Blanco1]

Dreaded double post.

[AnEv942]

Well Says right in note 3
http://www.torklift.com/index.php/products/suspension/stableload#f3 "Drilling of rubber pad on some older Dodge applications may be required." So does sound like theres a hole-

[ISBRAM]

I installed them on my 99 Ram 2500 many years ago and I remember it was a pita. There was already a hole in the proper place underneath the rubber on the mount, but it wasn’t quite big enough. I remember I first jacked the truck up some by the trailer hitch to stretch out the rear suspension and provide some clearance to work.
The rubber on mine was molded to and almost like it glued itself to the mounts, so I left it on.

I used a power drill to probe for the pre drilled hole, it’s in the right place. If you place Stable Load on the mount it’s pretty easy to see where it has to go. I had an extra long drill bit in the right size and that helped a lot, but I still seem to remember loosening up one of the mounts to get a good angle on it.

I really do like the way they worked once on the truck, and they did help prevent sway also. I already had air bags but I only run a little air in them now to level the truck side to side.

[finaddict]

I have them on my 08 f350 and they are a good addition. My bump stop mounts definitely do not look like yours.They were flat not curved and was bolt on exactly like they claimed. Torklift's web page shows two models.

http://www.torklift.com/index.php/products/suspension/stableload#overview

Are they the complete solution? No. They only thing they do for my 2500 lb. camper is bring the overloads to rest on the bump stops sooner and significantly reduce the roll on corners and side to side slop on uneven roads.

The downside to them is that when unloaded, there is an annoying "spring-slap" that is noticeable when going over speed bumps or driving on bumpy roads.

[AnEv942]

Really... that's supposed to work? One size fits all... Even if removing the original rubber and happened there's a hole or end up drilling how does a flat bottom bolt to a curved surface? If there was a hole I assume it'd be centered so contact would be off, further working the bolt. Goofy IMO

Has some one actually done this?

If I had to use those Id be inclined to pull the o'ls, drill and mount to top leave, clearance hole the bottom leave so they could still move independently.
Or someone should design replacement brackets. Bewildered...
Given the weight you plan seems being in the LA area a decent spring shop could be found at reasonable cost to replace springs.

Probably just me- I don't get it, never looked at them before.
I just looked at my truck, 01 Ford. Not as much curve as yours-different, think they might work. Springs are flatter in relation to less curved bracket. Plus it appears there would be, if any, a lot less engagement with no load. Curious.
Wonder how difficult to slide the stock rubber off to see if hole? Pulling all 4 four to drill sounds like work...

[Blanco1]

Strange thing is it sounds like an Unbolt & bolt in the new parts in replacement?


Yet this is what I'm working with?



As you can see there is nothing to unbolt & replace these with?






Seems like it was suppose to be direct R&R but there is no factory bolt ons to replace or even any holes to bolt these into?

[okan-star]

Older Dodges have the bump stops molded on to the brackets , at least my 99 does - cut off and drill
Personally I think that's just going to cause side to side roll
I would address the weak top three leafs in the main pack that are built to collapse to the main bottom overload leaf , giving you a car type ride until you load enough to hit the weight carrying bottom leaf
Add leafs- add Supersprings - or change to progressive leaf springs like 450`s, 550`s ,5500`s have on them
Air bags , stable loads cause side to side roll IMHO

[Bedlam]

Easy on the Ford's but harder on the Ram's that have wheel liners in the way and only one locator slot.