Travel Tow Capacity for Ford Expedition EL

[mcruz]

We are considering purchasing a 2015 Tracer 2990bhd travel trailer. Its weight is 7000lbs. Its tongue weight is 800 lbs. We own a 2014 Ford Expedition 4x4 EL equipped with a 3.73 rear axle ratio, 5.4L V8 engine with heavy-duty trailer tow package (15,000 GCWR). Ford site states this Expedition will tow 8,900 lbs. and has a tongue weight maximum of 890 lbs. We would carry four bikes on the back of the trailer, but besides that, minimal weight. We are a family of four, weight (500 lbs). A full tank of gas in this Expedition is about 275 lbs. From all of our calculations, we appear to be within weight restrictions for a safe tow, but we are looking for additional input/opinions on this vehicle towing this travel trailer. Also, any recommendations on how to increase the tow capacity of this vehicle?? Is it possible?? Thanks!

[Gaffer222]

We have a 07 Expy Limited with HD tow and use the Equal-izer hitch 1000lb/10000lb. TT is 2015 Keystone Outback Terrain. Shipped weight/hitch 5500lbs/585lbs, 27' 6" long. We towed from CT to Hershey PA and I was impressed with the setup. Never had any issues on the hills and semi's had no affect on sway. In my opinion I would not go any heavier or longer. This was our second trip with this combo and I was concerned as I was use to a much lighter/shorter HTT.

What really made me feel good about our setup was the TT next to us in Hershey was also an Outback and Expy combo but he was at 36'
and 7500 lbs dry. He said he had major towing issues until purchasing $2700 ProPride hitch. He had the DW and 3 kids and a dog. I don't like to judge but this made me feel good about our setup...

[johninedmonton]

Tystevens wrote:

intheburbs wrote:
And lastly, the Excursion has a GVWR of 9200 lbs. Yet it only has a payload of 1350? Its curb weight is 7850? Seems a bit high to me....

If it is a diesel, it certainly could weigh 7800#. That PSD is a heavy drivetrain inside an already heavy truck.

Yeah, that drivetrain is HEAVY. It's one of the reasons I picked it over the 3/4 Burb. The diesel power is lovely, and the extra weight will be helpful if the trailer ever wants to misbehave on the road. All of the safety equipment is great, but the laws of physics are pretty clear: heavy items push light items around. I like that my truck weighs as much, if not more, than my trailer. ( Plus, I have every piece of safety equipment I can lay hands on! )

Back to the OP though; I loved driving my Ex EL. Smooooth as silk; more comfy than my Lincoln or my Mercedes. A wonderful vehicle to drive.

[johninedmonton]

intheburbs wrote:
Well, based on my data point of "one," I can say that as soon as I exceeded the door sticker numbers, stuff started to break.

My half-ton Burb is on rear end number 4. I upgraded my trailer in 2010, thinking the half-ton could handle it.

1) 2010 - Spun the pinion bearing while vacationing. Spent 3 days in Youngstown, OH.
2) 2011 - Seized the rear end while vacationing. Spent 4 days in Mitchell, SD.
3) 2012 - rear end replaced under warranty, likely because of improper break-in.

2013 - bought the 2500 Burb.
2014 - beat the snot out of the 2500 on a 5300-mile vacation out West, including four wheeling and the Eisenhower Tunnel, and nothing broke.

Folks can do whatever the heck they want. I'm simply sharing my experience with an almost-identical vehicle. 10-bolt semi-floater rears don't like excess weight and high temperatures.

My friend, you've had LOUSY luck with vacations!

[colliehauler]

intheburbs wrote:
Well, based on my data point of "one," I can say that as soon as I exceeded the door sticker numbers, stuff started to break.

My half-ton Burb is on rear end number 4. I upgraded my trailer in 2010, thinking the half-ton could handle it.

1) 2010 - Spun the pinion bearing while vacationing. Spent 3 days in Youngstown, OH.
2) 2011 - Seized the rear end while vacationing. Spent 4 days in Mitchell, SD.
3) 2012 - rear end replaced under warranty, likely because of improper break-in.

2013 - bought the 2500 Burb.
2014 - beat the snot out of the 2500 on a 5300-mile vacation out West, including four wheeling and the Eisenhower Tunnel, and nothing broke.

Folks can do whatever the heck they want. I'm simply sharing my experience with an almost-identical vehicle. 10-bolt semi-floater rears don't like excess weight and high temperatures.

Well not a Burb but had the same thing happen to my Dodge 1500 and I was under weight. I replaced the rear end gears, transmission, front ball joints all before it had 80K miles.

[bogeygolfer]

As an owner of a 2008 EL w/HD towing package, I can tell you that when I towed our 5800 lb. trailer it was not fun. Possibly I had the hitch adjusted improperly (with too little weight on the tongue), but the sway was terrible compared to our 3/4 ton Duramax. Yes, I understand they are completely different vehicles - but my point is: when towing with the HD truck, I felt in control of the trailer at all times. Then, when towing with the EL, I felt like I was being controlled by the trailer (and all the semis passing me).

[rbpru]

My point was; people have, will and are now towing TTs based on what they feel comfortable with.

One person's overload will suit another just fine.

[LarryJM]

majorgator wrote:

Those numbers like payload which is based on GVWR are NOT RECOMMENDATIONS. They are SAFETY CERTIFIED NUMBERS verified by extensive safety related independently performed tests in accordance with a set of uniform testing protocols

Well, that's not entirely accurate either. There is no "uniform testing protocols". There's extensive online articles about how the manufacturers have never been able to agree to a uniform set of testing and rating protocols when it comes to determining what their product's capacity and capabilities are. Every time they've tried to agree, someone breaks rank and then no one participates. Supposedly, they've reached an agreement beginning in 2015 to a set of uniform standards, but there are no government mandates to do it. There are no "independent performed tests" which have a bearing on the door sticker, and all tests are done to the bias of the manufacturer. Some folks have come along and performed independent tests, but those are "informational only" and will never be published my the manufacturer. This has been a huge complaint since the 1990's.

Bottom line is that the ratings on the door sticker show what the vehicle ratings are in its "stock" configuration...right off the assembly line. Aftermarket mods can have a positive or negative effect. It is absolutely common for people to exceed the ratings after they've done some level of mods to their TV. I'm not saying its right or wrong, and one should never perform mods without very diligent research. Its the people that exceed ratings blindly that should scare you. If your TV is under warranty, that would obviously be a big NO-NO.

Not true at all when it comes to brake testing which is the main "SAFETY" related parameter I was referring to. It is done at the stated GVWR and those are performed by independent entities and paid for by the manufacturer. The results are privileged and go directly to the FEDs. FORD provides the vehicles to the testing entitiy, but that is where their participation basically ends. I know that Fed Mogul has a complete division for testing the brakes on all SD Ford trucks and there are VERY STRICT PROTOCOLS as it relates to those tests and they even include what percentage of the GAWRs for the front/rear loads so that the sum still equals the GVWR for the certification label. All this information is buried in the FMVSS regulations for those willing to dig for it.

Now it's true that these are performed on stock off the line vehicles which is logical since that is what the certification label states when it says "THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLICABLE FMVSS ....". That sticker is FAR, FAR from any recommendation at to what it contains.

Larry

[PAThwacker]

intheburbs wrote:
Well, based on my data point of "one," I can say that as soon as I exceeded the door sticker numbers, stuff started to break.

My half-ton Burb is on rear end number 4. I upgraded my trailer in 2010, thinking the half-ton could handle it.

1) 2010 - Spun the pinion bearing while vacationing. Spent 3 days in Youngstown, OH.
2) 2011 - Seized the rear end while vacationing. Spent 4 days in Mitchell, SD.
3) 2012 - rear end replaced under warranty, likely because of improper break-in.

2013 - bought the 2500 Burb.
2014 - beat the snot out of the 2500 on a 5300-mile vacation out West, including four wheeling and the Eisenhower Tunnel, and nothing broke.

Folks can do whatever the heck they want. I'm simply sharing my experience with an almost-identical vehicle. 10-bolt semi-floater rears don't like excess weight and high temperatures.

I beat the snot out of my 2004 k2500 burb 4 seats and 2351lbs payload on sticker. Removed 3rd row for 2451lbs payload.


I haul bulk firewood in the back, off-road boat launches, and off road hunting trips.

[majorgator]

He will be fine as long as nothing goes wrong again.

That's the one universal truth LOL. Applies equally to a one ton pulling a teardrop.

He got a huge ticket for not having enough truck for the trailer, no sway control, no brakes and no tow mirrors.

I would imagine that from a legal standpoint, he could get a reckless driving charge, or maybe something similar. Hard to imagine much else could be charged since the vehicle ratings are just manufacturer's recommendations. Now if someone would have been injured or killed, I would imagine that such negligence could open the door for a very legitimate civil suit.

[JiminDenver]

Overloading the truck may affect you legally too. I talk solar with a guy on you tube that decided to move his 6000# trailer 500 miles through the Washington mountains with a Ford Ranger with no WDH, no sway control, no trailer brakes. Like most he was doing fine over loaded until he was changing lanes and someone cut him off, forcing him back over too quickly. The trailer started swaying, then jack knifed, popped off the trucks hitch and rolled on down the highway. He got a huge ticket for not having enough truck for the trailer, no sway control, no brakes and no tow mirrors.

Will he learn, not at all. The accident wasn't his fault, it was the guy that cut him off. He now has a slightly smaller trailer and plans on making the same run, again without any safety gear. He will be fine as long as nothing goes wrong again.

[intheburbs]

Well, based on my data point of "one," I can say that as soon as I exceeded the door sticker numbers, stuff started to break.

My half-ton Burb is on rear end number 4. I upgraded my trailer in 2010, thinking the half-ton could handle it.

1) 2010 - Spun the pinion bearing while vacationing. Spent 3 days in Youngstown, OH.
2) 2011 - Seized the rear end while vacationing. Spent 4 days in Mitchell, SD.
3) 2012 - rear end replaced under warranty, likely because of improper break-in.

2013 - bought the 2500 Burb.
2014 - beat the snot out of the 2500 on a 5300-mile vacation out West, including four wheeling and the Eisenhower Tunnel, and nothing broke.

Folks can do whatever the heck they want. I'm simply sharing my experience with an almost-identical vehicle. 10-bolt semi-floater rears don't like excess weight and high temperatures.

[majorgator]

Those numbers like payload which is based on GVWR are NOT RECOMMENDATIONS. They are SAFETY CERTIFIED NUMBERS verified by extensive safety related independently performed tests in accordance with a set of uniform testing protocols

Well, that's not entirely accurate either. There is no "uniform testing protocols". There's extensive online articles about how the manufacturers have never been able to agree to a uniform set of testing and rating protocols when it comes to determining what their product's capacity and capabilities are. Every time they've tried to agree, someone breaks rank and then no one participates. Supposedly, they've reached an agreement beginning in 2015 to a set of uniform standards, but there are no government mandates to do it. There are no "independent performed tests" which have a bearing on the door sticker, and all tests are done to the bias of the manufacturer. Some folks have come along and performed independent tests, but those are "informational only" and will never be published my the manufacturer. This has been a huge complaint since the 1990's.

Bottom line is that the ratings on the door sticker show what the vehicle ratings are in its "stock" configuration...right off the assembly line. Aftermarket mods can have a positive or negative effect. It is absolutely common for people to exceed the ratings after they've done some level of mods to their TV. I'm not saying its right or wrong, and one should never perform mods without very diligent research. Its the people that exceed ratings blindly that should scare you. If your TV is under warranty, that would obviously be a big NO-NO.

[LarryJM]

rbpru wrote:
The bottom line to all this is you can pull most any TT with most any TV.

The sticker on the door post tells you how much your max cargo can be, it is up to you to decide how heavy you wish to load the vehicle.

Usually, even with a WD hitch leveling out the load, your TT and stuff will probably exceed the vehicle’s max cargo limit before you are exceeding the vehicle’s towing limit.

Contrary to some opinions, this is not a crime against humanity, it is simple the decision to exceed the manufactures recommended limits.

As for power and gas mileage only you can be the judge of that also. I once towed a 6000 lb. trailer with a 200 hp. Ford F-150. It topped out at 52 mph on any hill. It did not ruin my vacation but it did make for slow going. I also made for an Eco-Boost TV shortly thereafter.:)

You my friend are VERY CONFUSED and DANGEROUSLY INCORRECRT. Those numbers like payload which is based on GVWR are NOT RECOMMENDATIONS. They are SAFETY CERTIFIED NUMBERS verified by extensive safety related independently performed tests in accordance with a set of uniform testing protocols. That littlle label on the drivers door jam that is commonly called the FMVSS certification stands for FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARDS and not as you mistakenly believe are simply manufacturer recommendations subject to interpretation or modification by the owner.

Please don't mislead folks where their and their loved ones safety are concerned by marginilizing these numbers.

Larry

[rbpru]

The bottom line to all this is you can pull most any TT with most any TV.

The sticker on the door post tells you how much your max cargo can be, it is up to you to decide how heavy you wish to load the vehicle.

Usually, even with a WD hitch leveling out the load, your TT and stuff will probably exceed the vehicle’s max cargo limit before you are exceeding the vehicle’s towing limit.

Contrary to some opinions, this is not a crime against humanity, it is simple the decision to exceed the manufactures recommended limits.

As for power and gas mileage only you can be the judge of that also. I once towed a 6000 lb. trailer with a 200 hp. Ford F-150. It topped out at 52 mph on any hill. It did not ruin my vacation but it did make for slow going. I also made for an Eco-Boost TV shortly thereafter.:)