Traveling in the winter with a TT

[Metzfamily]

We are considering traveling from Arkansas to Omaha, Nebraska in the next week or so. We are going to watch the weather, but, if the forecast is wrong. It would be nice to have some wisdom from experienced folks. Our Flagstaff 25FKS has an all season package to include tank heaters.
1. When going down the road our TT does not have heat on, how do you keep pipes from freezing while pulling?
2. Tips for if we get caught on snowing/slick roads.

[canoe_on_top]

Most full sized RV refrigerators don't have the 12 volt option. They are 120 or propane. Run the refer on propane while traveling.

[Camper8251]

The Bargeman Supply "+12V" does not normally have sufficient voltage to charge Trailer Batteries. In modern vehicles, the Alternator contains an electronic controller which adjusts output (Voltage, and therefore Amps) according to the measured "State of Charge" found via the "Sense" wire. For a short time after starting, the voltage WILL be sufficient to charge the batteries - but the "State of Charge" recovers pretty quickly, and the alternator reduces its voltage to a "float" level of 13.5 - 13.8V.

Even if all this voltage could be seen at the Trailer batteries, it's not enough to drive much current - and the batteries will not charge in a reasonable amount of time. But the situation at the Trailer batteries is even worse than that, for two reasons: Voltage Drop in the wiring, and lots of power being consumed by the refrigerator.

Typical RV refrigerators, built using heater-based "absorption" technology, consume 10-15A while running the DC Heater. While the refrigerator tries to draw this power, from both the Trailer batteries and the TV-Bargeman connection, the Voltage at the end of the wiring from the connection wiring by amounts which Internet "Voltage Drop Calculators" will estimate for you. "Voltage Drop" values of 5% and higher are not uncommon when the Fridge activates the heater. When the original "13.5V" drops below the Voltage available from the Trailer batteries, the Fridge will pull power from the Batteries instead:

They are being discharged, rather than charged.

[time2roll]

Metzfamily wrote:
Yes we have a location to park it when we arrive with 110 electricity. We pulled it in November to the same location. It was cold inside the TT when we stopped to take breaks. It would be nice if it is ok to run heat while on the road.

Our truck has a 220 Amp alternator so I think it will be able to keep the batteries charged. We have two batteries on the TT.

As long as you can plug in at the destination your pair of batteries will do just fine. No worries.

[time2roll]

Metzfamily wrote:
So it is ok to run the heat while pulling the TT?

Yes. Everything is designed to operate in motion.

[Grit_dog]

Your truck won’t do much for charging the camper batteries while enroute. But 2 fully charged batteries wil keep your furnace fan running for a day.

[Grit_dog]

1. Same concept as keeping pipes from freezing while stationary. If you don’t know your RV well enough to know what is heated and what isn’t, that’s the first step.
1A. IF it’s cold enough and you have unheated or exposed piping, it will freeze if not drained or circulated once the temp remains below freezing for a period of time. Temperature dependent.

2. If you need tips about towing in snow and ice, it may be best to not take the trailer.

[Lwiddis]

“Our truck has a 220 Amp alternator so I think it will be able to keep the batteries charged.”

But will your TV and/or TT wiring deliver sufficient amps to the house battery? Wire size? Once your TV starting battery is fully recharged what voltage will your 220 Amp alternator deliver?

[Sjm9911]

Colder then i was thinking. Yea, i might blow the lines out also.

[canoe_on_top]

When I tow in winter, I keep the furnace and the water heater turned on. I carry chains that fit the truck and the trailer. Have been fortunate in that I have not had to use them. Some states require chains on one axle on the trailer if they are required on the truck.Think about braking and seeing the trailer coming around sideways in the mirror. Go slow! If the weather gets too bad, wait it out.

[Lwiddis]

jdc is right on. Follow an 18 wheeler or big bus...if you are comfortable going that fast. Personally I woundn’t do this trip now.

[Gdetrailer]

Metzfamily wrote:
Yes we have a location to park it when we arrive with 110 electricity. We pulled it in November to the same location. It was cold inside the TT when we stopped to take breaks. It would be nice if it is ok to run heat while on the road.

Our truck has a 220 Amp alternator so I think it will be able to keep the batteries charged. We have two batteries on the TT.

Is it safe to run a propane furnace while pulling the TT I guess is a big question for me.

I know the refrigerator is running on propane on the road but I would think that is a smaller flame. Still a flame never the less.

We encountered very strong winds on the last trip, but, was very fortunate that it was a tailwind. Best MPG we had ever seen. Just luck though.

So noted on the drunk buddies pulling you on an inner tube 😉 This is the advice and wisdom we are looking for.

I believe you bought a GM, check your manual and locate the charging fuse location to see if there is a fuse in that position.. GM often does not by default put a fuse on the charge line to make it hot.. Sometimes may even be a dummy fuse there.. Not sure why they do that..

Do be aware also, if it is a GM you bought, in times past, they also did not have a relay on the charge line. What that means is the charge line is on even when the engine is not running. If this is the case, if you NEED to pull over and wait out a bad weather situation you WILL want to disconnect the trailer from the vehicle wiring to prevent accidentally running down your vehicle's battery (which could be ugly in cold weather).

Many yrs ago, my Dad had a 1980s truck with a 5th wheel trailer that he wired the charge line hot all the time.. It bit him one time when he had to pull off and sit out a bad snow storm for a day.. Furnace ran the trailer battery down AND the truck battery down and he had to call for a jump the next day..

[ajriding]

Depends...

If all pipes are inside and not on a cold steel frame or open to the outside then they will stay liquid for a while depending how insulated and warm the trailer is.

Maybe you can blow the pipes out so there is less to freeze in them. This is really the best solution.

The water heater should be fine, it is insulated on the outside but the inner part is not, where the flame burns is a u-shaped tube that is open to the outside world. Maybe put cardboard inside the access door to close of the draft. It might not matter at all on a day drive, esp if the water is hot or warm to start with.

Keep the faucets open. they can still freeze, but this gives the displaced water an exit.

Usually pipes can freeze and not see any damage, it is just annoying having no water while they thaw out. Sometimes pipes break.

Your water tank wont freeze, and if it does will not break, at worst it gets a little slushy at the top.

[Metzfamily]

Sjm9911 wrote:
How cold does it get down there? Just curious. It takes a bit for stuff to freeze. How long is the tow? 8 hours then hooked up again? If its only around freezing and a short 8 hours or so, i wouldn't bother doing anything special.

The forecast highs and lows for our time period are -
Day 1 - 50 to 27 arrival date (we moved it because of day 2 wx)
Day 2 - 35 to 12 - windy with gusts to 50
Day 3 - 28 to 15
Day 4 - 39 to 21
Day 5 - 43 to 26
Day 6 - 36 to 21 (planned departure date with a 20% chance of precip)
Day 7 - 33 to 18
Day 8 need to be back home to work

The tow is 10 hours long the coldest weather is at our destination which is listed above.

[Metzfamily]

We have a honda EU2000i that we always carry with us and fuel for it.

Good to know about the truck's ability to charge the battery bank.