Truck camper battery

[Jrs907]

So does anybody know if older campers (1981 Coachman 8.5' Victorian) require a battery to operate 12v and 120v systems while plugged into shore power. The reason I ask is because I don't want my old, untested converter touching my batteries which are kept charged by my solar panels. If I ran a switch from my battery to disconnect my positive to the converter, do the old converters still run 12v accessories? My camper is set up for boondocking, as I have a Renogy panel and mppt controller charging my house battery. (No house batteries back then, I have two AGMs next to my water tank). I simply want to be able to plug in while I'm at home and was curious. I don't trust old 80s components, as they are single stage chargers I believe.

[dunegoon1]

Have you considered temporarily connecting up a small "throw away" battery? A battery can act to smooth out the rectifier waveform and this might be better for some circuit boards. For example, take the one out of your garden tractor if you wish. Since you are parked at home, you might just run some wires to any old battery set outside the rig.

[Jrs907]

I got lucky, most of the things I needed to upgrade, I already owned. Renogy panels were fairly inexpensive, the mppt controller was a few bucks though. I had my LED bulbs from my old camper still. I enjoy doing electrical work and remodeling.

[trailgranny50]

Our '90' camper had no set up for its own battery. The converter runs everything from dual truck batteries when plugged into it. When on shore power or generator I always unplug the camper from the truck. We usually start and run the truck 30 minutes every couple days when staying for a time but mostly move from place to place every one to two days. When we stay for a week or more we're always plugged in to shore power. Have been thinking about adding house batteries and or solar lately but the expenses and more complicated operating system are something we'll have to think about a bit more. Old dogs can learn new tricks, just more slowly. That and the age of the camper, how much is too much to invest? Decisions, decisions. So far our set up works fine for us and there goes my DH with the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" thing.

[Jrs907]

I don't really need a modern converter. I boondock here in Alaska 100% of the time and never plug in. I use solar to keep my batteries topped off and my energy usage is minimal. Cell phones, interior lights-all LEDs, my kindle and laptop and that's it for power needs. Yep Victory402- my mppt charge controller charges my AGMs perfectly. I could upgrade to a progressive dynamic converter, just no need. I was just curious if I unhooked my batteries, if all systems would still function using my 30 amp shore power

[Reddog1]

Jrs907 - you have the correct fix.

My Bigfoot is a 1988, and it had no battery or any provisions for one. I installed a complete system, including Solar.

I am curious though, why not and a modern charger/converter? Only about $150. Maybe something like one of these, Powermax Boondocker Series deck mount 4-stage converter/charger. Very simple to install, and you probably can use your existing fuse panel. I have purchased from Best Converter several times. They are easy to talk to, sale several types, styles, and brands of converters. They may have a direct conversion charger that will replace what you have.

Wayne

[mkirsch]

My TC has no provision for batteries whatsoever, and the converter runs the 12V systems just fine without any battery at all.

[Kayteg1]

Technology changed over the years and you need to do some checking what you have.
Older converters did provide 12V AC (!) current with switch-over for lights and had small 12V DC circuit for battery charging and radio operating.
Those charging circuit often were set well above 14V and on long run would run the battery dry.
Newer chargers are hook up parallel to the battery and have voltage controlled at about 13.5V what is maintaining voltage for the battery.
I have the latest and can leave the battery for long time, but when I disconnect the battery, the lights will operate, but jacks will not get enough current from charger alone.

[Victory402]

I have a similar truck camper and set up as you (88 coachmen). I have AGM's set next to the water tank too, along with a Renogy solar panel. I left my converter connected to my batteries and so far (2 years), no ill effects.

I think it will be ok to leave your system as is, but most certainly, you will shorten the life of your agms. Installing a disconnect switch will work and it will extend the life of your batteries and you will still be able to run your camper normally. I would install the disconnect near the water tank where your batteries are, for both the black and white wires. A 15 amp 4 way switch would work just fine for a disconnect.

The only time I plug into shore power is when I need my AC or to run my fridge on electric. Hope this helps.

Does your solar charge controller have an option to charge AGMs?