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TT winter dry or almost dry camping

MartiniSCP
Explorer
Explorer
Hello All.

When we were shopping for our TT we had a salesperson advise that we could camp in the winter if we created some sort of sludge mixture of water and salt (and perhaps some other ingredients that I don't remember) in the gray and/or black water tank.

In our TT the fresh water tank is under the bed and could be kept from freezing by the furnace that warms the interior anyway. Ditto for the plumbing hoses to the various sinks or the tub.

So, afaik, the only liquid that would be subject to the cold of winter and not heated in any way (short of an electric tank heater) would be the gray and black water tanks.

Is there any way to keep that water from freezing?
I could see just antifreeze in the gray water tank.
Would antifreeze in the black water tank interfere with the chemicals that go in there to break down waste?

Thanks, in advance, and
Happy Camping!
13 REPLIES 13

Opie431
Explorer
Explorer
Our winter water comes from jugs that we refill. They are used to flush the toilet. Dishwater is disposed of ourside. A garage sale percolator is our water heater.

WyoTraveler
Explorer
Explorer
I remember those tent camping days. In the evening we filled the coffee pot because in the morning everything would be frozen. Coffee pot was ready to put on the camp fire.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Reminds me of reading a trip report to Alaska in winter where the waste tanks just remained frozen. Every flush became another layer of ice in the tank. No issues.

Trouble will be warm days and it thaws and refreeze each day.

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
We did a lot of cold weather camping in our first TT, a Dutchmen Sport 18 foot. It was not anywhere near close to a 4 season type of trailer. When it came to water, we just reverted back to the old style tent camping days. Water is carried in 6 gallon plastic (military style looking) water containers. Dishes are washed and all the water is caught in a pan and tossed outside. No showers, not even a Navy shower ... no, no, no ... cat bath! In Basic Training in the Army you're taught how to take an entire bath and brush your teeth from just the water you can put in your helmet (steel pot). So, revert back to that and it works. Toilet? We got a port-a-potty from Wall Mart with the removable bucket. When done, take to the nearest pit-toilet and dump. If you're really boon-docking, dig a hole (frozen ground .. might be a challenge), and burry it.

Second trailer we did the same thing. We're on our third trailer now. It's suppose to have a heated underbelly. But when winter rolls around, I'm still not taking chances. The end of that dump valve could potentially freeze and that's something I just do not want to deal with.

canoe_on_top
Explorer
Explorer
I've camped in a class C in winter with the FW tank under the bed and the holding tanks exposed for weekends without problems by dumping antifreeze in the holding tanks. Did have sewer line freeze up once but it thawed when temps got above freezing during the day. Make sure tanks are empty before you dump in antifreeze so it can go down the sewer line to the dump valves. As long as I kept it warm inside, the FW system worked. Your mileage may vary?

Michael_in_MN
Explorer
Explorer
WyoTraveler wrote:

I camped in a Jayco 19RD down to 10 degrees. below that I kept the fresh water tank empty. I used the toilet but flushed using RV anti-freeze one time water the next. I carried bottled water and used the grey tank but putting RV anti-freeze in it depening how much water I used.


^^^This is how I camp in winter. I keep the trailer plumbing winterized, use water from jugs kept in either the cab of the truck or the trailer, whichever is warmer, and keep enough pink stuff in the grey and black tanks so they don't freeze.
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LivinLite Camplite 16BHB
2015 Silverado 1500

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Sure you wait to dump the tanks assuming you weren't planning to use the rig until spring again. As was noted there is a lot more to a winter-usable rig than having the fresh water tank under the bed....do you have dual-pane windows? Also the absorbtion fridge is not very effective when running in below freezing temps.

Maybe just tell us what model TT you bought?

JiminDenver
Explorer
Explorer
My TT is a 3 season like yours with the FW under the bed, most lines enclosed and the tanks exposed. We are fine if it freezes at night as long as it warms up the next day.

Some things to think about are.

The fresh water under the bed doesn't get regular circulation from the furnace and the drain is exposed.

The lines are mostly enclosed as far as I can see but the low point drains are exposed under the trailer. I pulled a drawer out in the kitchen and the lines run over a uninsulated wheel well.

You can use anti freeze in the waste tanks for shorter trips but it would get old and expensive. With hook ups you could put heat pads on them but that's not a good option dry camping.

If I Had to use the TT in winter I would bag the toilet and use bottled water for everything else. Now you have to start dealing with how much propane and battery it will take to keep the rig warm. We cover the windows with heavy towels, stuff the vents and put rugs down to keep the floor warmer.
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byways
Explorer
Explorer
BobsYourUncle wrote:
Well, since you are still in shopping mode, I suggest restricting your search to those with a heated underbelly. This will help a lot.

I have been there done that with camping in sub zero temperatures. I have had the lower end of my grey and black tanks freeze.

Trying to dump when your waste pipe is frozen solid behind the gate valves is no fun at all.

I remember laying under the dump pipe with a heat gun for a long time trying to thaw the thing out so I could dump. Not one of my more memorable trips for sure.

Yeah, heated underbelly is the way to go if you are going to be out there in freezing weather. It won't eliminate frozen tanks and pipes but it will sure reduce it.


This!

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

I'd be adding an ultra heat system. Frozen and burst waste tanks and valves are no joke.

Don't forget to protect the fridge from freezing too.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

WyoTraveler
Explorer
Explorer
If your grey and black tank are out in the open with no heat they can freeze. If the drain for the grey and black tank are n the open they can freeze. The valves and lines can freeze and bust. Even the tanks can freeze and bust. If your tanks are enclosed and heated you could camp down to 10 degrees approx. However any valves in the open can still be damaged. Normally a 4 season type RV will have valves inside the heated area with a shaft extending out of that area to open them.

I camped in a Jayco 19RD down to 10 degrees. below that I kept the fresh water tank empty. I used the toilet but flushed using RV anti-freeze one time water the next. I carried bottled water and used the grey tank but putting RV anti-freeze in it depening how much water I used. I think the salesperson was not totally truthful. Plus I wouldn't use saltwater in my grey and black tank. If your tanks and valves are in the open with no heat it is a summer TT and should be winterized before any freezing weather to protect it. If your plan was to camp in any freezing weather the Jayco with the thermal package would work but better choice probably the Artic Fox.

MartiniSCP
Explorer
Explorer
Well, for clarity sake, we are done shopping.
Our black and gray water tanks are exposed under the vehicle.

What would be wrong with a small layer of ice in the bottom of those tanks?
If the aren't full and the water/ice can expand, it shouldn't rupture anything right?
One could wait until it warmed up to empty?

Just a thought.
Set me straight someone, if I'm out to lunch on this one.
😛

Well, since you are still in shopping mode, I suggest restricting your search to those with a heated underbelly. This will help a lot.

I have been there done that with camping in sub zero temperatures. I have had the lower end of my grey and black tanks freeze.

Trying to dump when your waste pipe is frozen solid behind the gate valves is no fun at all.

I remember laying under the dump pipe with a heat gun for a long time trying to thaw the thing out so I could dump. Not one of my more memorable trips for sure.

Yeah, heated underbelly is the way to go if you are going to be out there in freezing weather. It won't eliminate frozen tanks and pipes but it will sure reduce it.
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