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universal sealant/caulk?

al7601
Explorer
Explorer
what should I use to re-apply around outside lights, windows, corners, and anything else outside needing a water tight seal?

Hopefully there is something I could use for everything, thank you
13 REPLIES 13

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
Dicor comes in a self leveling sealant for horizontal surfaces and another type for vertical surfaces. Neither I've used were any more or less messy than other brands.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

trail-explorer
Explorer
Explorer
DutchmenSport wrote:
Dicor.


Dicor is really best used only on the rood, or edges of the roof. I would never install that messy **** on walls (around lights, windows, doors, storage compartments)

For other areas, I use Sikaflex or GeoCel Proflex.
Bob

al7601
Explorer
Explorer
thank you everyone for your feedback. I learn so much from everyone and I truly appreciate it.

mikakuja
Explorer
Explorer
I use Proflex on all exterior trim, moldings etc. Dicor lap sealant on the roof vents etc. I have tried other products but have had the best results with these.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
I did pretty much the same as Larry, using Eternabond tape along the roof edge. I too, haven't had a leak or any other problem in that area.

For siding joints, I used Geocel 2300 Tripolymer sealant. It is almost a twin brother of Proflex RV. Geocel makes a full line of sealants and adhesives for the RV and mobile home industries. Yes, they are stiff to tool but that extra material body means durability, IMO. The 3M sealants Larry listed are also good and also somewhat stiff to tool. A user can ease the tooling by heating the sealant tubes. That will make the material softer as it comes out of the gun.

Placing caulk/sealant over failing sealant makes little sense to me. The new stuff will hold for awhile but will eventually be lifted when the underlying sealant loses it's bond to the structure. Removing caulks is easy using 3M Caulk remover. I put it on with a brush, cover it overnight with Saran wrap, and in the morning peel and wash off the vestiges of the caulk with mineral spirits.

As was mentioned, do NOT use any silicone or latex modified with silicone caulks on the exterior of your RV.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
RollinFreenEasy wrote:
I was washing our 2013 Mountaineer yesterday and found several places where the caulk on top of the gutters was coming loose. It appears this seals the top of the gutters to the rubber roof, so it is touching the rubber roof membrane. I have a couple of questions. Should I try to remove all the caulking on top of the gutters or just the places that are coming loose and run a bead of caulk down the top of the whole gutter? Also, I have a tube of Dicor 501 self-leveling caulk, when using this on a vertical surface will this product sag? I'll be near a Camping World by Thursday and can get a different type of caulk.


Personally, I would removing every bit of that caulk along the gutter and do a proper sealant job using Eternabond like I did along each side of my roof as shown in the pics below:





I did this over 8 years ago and haven't had to touch it since and it still looks as good as the day it was done.

If you insist on using a caulk I recommend 3M 4000 UV adhesive/sealant.

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL

RollinFreenEasy
Explorer
Explorer
I was washing our 2013 Mountaineer yesterday and found several places where the caulk on top of the gutters was coming loose. It appears this seals the top of the gutters to the rubber roof, so it is touching the rubber roof membrane. I have a couple of questions. Should I try to remove all the caulking on top of the gutters or just the places that are coming loose and run a bead of caulk down the top of the whole gutter? Also, I have a tube of Dicor 501 self-leveling caulk, when using this on a vertical surface will this product sag? I'll be near a Camping World by Thursday and can get a different type of caulk.

LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
al7601 wrote:
what should I use to re-apply around outside lights, windows, corners, and anything else outside needing a water tight seal?

Hopefully there is something I could use for everything, thank you


Be aware that DICOR products are NOT DESIGNED OR MEANT as a primary sealant so IMO they will not provide a "water tight seal" w/o having a primary sealant like butyl caulk or some of the Marine 3M products. Not sure about all the other sealants like Proflex, etc., but IIRC only some of the Marine grade 3M adhesive/sealants like the 5000 and maybe the 4000 series are actually meant to be used as a water tight primary sealant. If you're depending on Dicor and probably most of the other sealants for the primary seal you are risking a leak at sometime in the future.

Eternabond is also meant to be a primary water tight sealant.

For these reasons the ONLY Sealants/Caulk I will use is Eternabond first and then the 3M Marine 4000/5000 series adhesives/sealants. Additionally I always will use butyl caulk as the initial primary sealant where applicable.

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL

daystrom
Explorer
Explorer
I've had very good luck with OSI Quad found at Lowes. It's a urathane sealant, goes on smooth and tools easily with a soapy finger. ProFlex seems to be very hard to work with. Dicor self leveling on the roof (or Eternabond tape).
2012 Crossroads Zinger ZT26BH
2012 Ford F350 Lariat 4x4 6.7L PSD SRW
11,500 GVWR, 3522 lbs of payload

hbrady
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
al7601 wrote:
what should I use to re-apply around outside lights, windows, corners, and anything else outside needing a water tight seal?

Hopefully there is something I could use for everything, thank you


For vertical surfaces I use non sag formula ProFlex, for horizontal caulking I use Dicor self leveling lap sealant. If you're going to search out Dicor make sure you understand which version you're buying, and why, as self leveling isn't suitable at all for use on vertical surfaces.


X2
2015 RAM 2500 HD Crew Cab w/ 5.7L Gas
2018 SportTrek 290vik
Blue Ox SwayPro

darsben1
Explorer
Explorer
I can tell you DO NOT USE SILICONE
Traveling with my best friend, my wife in a 1990 Southwind

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
al7601 wrote:
what should I use to re-apply around outside lights, windows, corners, and anything else outside needing a water tight seal?

Hopefully there is something I could use for everything, thank you


For vertical surfaces I use non sag formula ProFlex, for horizontal caulking I use Dicor self leveling lap sealant. If you're going to search out Dicor make sure you understand which version you're buying, and why, as self leveling isn't suitable at all for use on vertical surfaces.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
Dicor. Get the original, not the specialized variations that are for only one specific material. I hadn't purchased any in the last 3 years and when I went to get a couple tubes at the local dealership, I was shocked at all the variations now. I searched out the original. I didn't want to chance the specialized flavors, even with Dicor.