Water Heater Help!

[OpenRoader66]

First, a newbie question: That on/off switch in your water heater is to make it electric as well as propane. Right? or Wrong? What's the benefit of having it on?

Secondly,the blow off valve or pressure relief valve on mine leaks and water comes out of the cover and over the side of the trailer. Any idea why this might be happening? Plus, how would I go about changing it? The trailer is only a couple months old. Thanks for any help you can offer guys.

[mbopp]

Big caution - do NOT flip the electric element on when the water heater is empty. By the time you count to 10 the element will have burned out.
I flip the water heater circuit breaker in the converter panel to "off" when we're not camping.

[DiskDoctr]

texasclarks wrote:
The switch underneath the cover is for the electric element of the hot water heater. The switch inside is for the propane (though it may also turn off the electric switch...check your owners manual).

^^This^^ 🙂

Think of the switches underneath the cover as 'enabling capabilities' In this case, turning on/off the electric option. It should also have a reset button you may wish to familiarize yourself with while there.

The lighted switch inside the camper turns on/off the h/w heater itself. Make sure when connecting to water or first turning on the pump (if running from your freshwater tank you filled), you bleed the hot water lines by opening your faucets, both hot and cold.

I do cold first, then hot. You may get some water first, then wait for a sputter of air, then solid water. I only open it a little at first or it spits water all over the sink 😉

Then you can turn on your h/w tank. If you turn it on while empty, you can burn out the electric element or worse :E

Hope this helps.

[texasclarks]

OpenRoader66 wrote:
It's a Wildwood Heritage Glen TT model: 312qbud. It is a 2013 model with a lighted switch inside on the main panel and a on/off switch underneath the cover on the water heater itself.

The switch underneath the cover is for the electric element of the hot water heater. The switch inside is for the propane (though it may also turn off the electric switch...check your owners manual).

[OpenRoader66]

It's a Wildwood Heritage Glen TT model: 312qbud. It is a 2013 model with a lighted switch inside on the main panel and a on/off switch underneath the cover on the water heater itself.

[DiskDoctr]

Hey, ho, whoa....there are a few comments in the replies that may not be relevant, depending on your camper.

First, what year, make, model of trailer?

Second, if you are talking about the switch INSIDE your camper, it is just on/off. If you have electric, you MAY have a separate switch for the electric heating element portion on the h/w heater itself, accessible via the external panel.

Thirdly, the 'air space' comments about blowing your TPS (Temperature, Pressure Safety valve) may or may not be an issue. True, water expands as it heats and the air space is used as a cushion, but if you are actively USING hot water and it is still leaking, it is likely not the cause.

Open the TPS fully and let a blast of water come out (careful, no burns) and then sharply close the valve by flicking it and letting it snap back into place. You may have a piece of debris or other issue holding it open.

If you are still having ANY problems with the TPS, replace it without hesitation. They are cheap ($10?) and a critical safety component. NEVER, never insert any kind of plug or cap into the threaded end of the TPS to stop a leak! Nobody said to do that, but it is important so mentioning it anyways 😉

[old_guy]

when we are in a camp ground, we leave the electric on all the time. when we get ready to shower I turn on the propane and when showers are over the propane goes off.. the electric keeps the water hot enough to do dishes and what ever, during showers it keeps the water hotter longer for a nice hot shower. just remember this, always have water in the tank before you turn on either one, electric or propane. if no water, you get hole in the tank with propane burning and you burn out the electric rod if no water.

[mhardin]

The others have already told you about what causes the leakage, so I won't repeat.

The big advantage to using both electric and propane comes at shower time - you get more hot water faster using both. When not using the shower, turn off either the electric or propane.

[Dogbone]

Most have a switch for propane and a switch for electric for the HWT we try to use the electric only to save propane but you need a 30 amp outlet and we don't use it when the AC is on or the microwave etc so as not to trip the breaker.

Your HWT is probably water logged and needs to be drained and refilled so as to make an air pocket at the top.

[popeyemth]

1) Right
2) you have both the electric element and the LP burner heating the water
3a)lack of air space for the water to expand into ( do a search here for air space)
3b)is the lever at the top flipped down? If up that's what it does-bleed water pressure
4) they just screw out of the tank with the proper wrench ( but you will not likely need one once you restore the air space)