Weight Distributing Hitches

[TriciaR1970]

We upgraded from a 24 foot travel trailer to a 33 foot travel trailer this summer. We are towing with a Ford F150 with Eco Boost engine. The truck is rated to tow up to 9600 and our TT is 6500 so we are good on weight. We moved our weight distributing hitch from the 24' to the 33', it is just a basic hitch with chains to distribute weight and a swaybar controller on the right side.

I am not a super experienced driver and so definitely take it easy, we started with a few short local trips this summer and the truck tows it easily but I find in windy weather or at highway speeds I feel more movement than I'm comfortable with.

I am considering upgrading to an Equil-i-zer Hitch and wondering what experience everyone has and what types of sway control you are using. They are an expense and I want to make the right choice as there are several different types.

This is the one that was recommended by a friend and what we are considering:
Equil-i-zer Hitch @ Hitchsourcehttp://www.hitchsource.com/equalizer-hitch-and-shank-12000lbs-p-27361.html

[PawPaw_n_Gram]

TriciaR1970 wrote:
Just curious is there a lot of mean people in here who can't agree without ripping each other to shreds? 🙂 I have always found RV people to be some of the best people and find that hard to believe that there is a lot of shredding.

RVs are like any group. There are some with very strong opinions, some with 'my way is the only way'.

Some folks are more 'blunt' about their opinions than others.

No more, no less than most other internet forums.

Just don't ask about tires or TP in the black tank - OK 😉

[lbrjet]

Wouldn't trade my Equal-i-zer for anything else out there.

[camp-n-family]

Forgot to mention, you can by refurbished Hensley hitches direct from Hensley for much less than the cost of new. Off their website

Re-Manufactured Hensley Arrows for Sway Control and Economy

Another money-saving option is a re-manufactured Hensley Arrow. These hitches are bought back from owners who no longer tow, completely stripped down and re-manufactured to original factory specifications, and sold back to you at a significant discount. Again, you can opt for the standard jacks or snap-up brackets to save even more money.

If you want the ultimate in safety while towing your trailer, but want to save a few dollars as well, be sure to ask about the options mentioned here when you call 1-800-410-6580.

[Denlor]

We have a 37ft o/a TT pulling with a 2500 Ram and an Equalizer which I love. But a 33 ft and an F-150 does not sound good at all. Could always be a problem looking for a place to happen.

[handye9]

TriciaR1970 wrote:
We upgraded from a 24 foot travel trailer to a 33 foot travel trailer this summer. We are towing with a Ford F150 with Eco Boost engine. The truck is rated to tow up to 9600 and our TT is 6500 so we are good on weight. We moved our weight distributing hitch from the 24' to the 33', it is just a basic hitch with chains to distribute weight and a swaybar controller on the right side.

I am not a super experienced driver and so definitely take it easy, we started with a few short local trips this summer and the truck tows it easily but I find in windy weather or at highway speeds I feel more movement than I'm comfortable with.

I am considering upgrading to an Equil-i-zer Hitch and wondering what experience everyone has and what types of sway control you are using. They are an expense and I want to make the right choice as there are several different types.

This is the one that was recommended by a friend and what we are considering:
Equil-i-zer Hitch @ Hitchsourcehttp://www.hitchsource.com/equalizer-hitch-and-shank-12000lbs-p-27361.html

It's possible, your existing hitch is too lite and, it is not distributing enough weight back onto your drive wheels. If drive wheels are too lite, you unconsiously move the steering wheel back and forth, which causes a little swaying motion.

Either hitch should do a decent job, but, you should check your actaul weights on truck and trailer.

Find these weights:

Truck GVWR
Truck actual weight
Trailer gross weight (UVW plus cargo capacity)


6500 lbs, sounds like it may be the advertised unloaded weight. If so, loaded for camping, it will be closer to 7500 lbs. That would make a difference in trunion bars for your new hitch. Find out gross weight for the trailer and use that to estimate tongue (hitch) weight. Average is 12%. Better yet, load it up and weight it, with and without WD bars.

Find out actual weight of the truck. Weigh it with full fuel and driver. Then subtract actual weight from GVWR (posted on drivers door post). That will tell you available payload.


Your weakest points are going to be:

Available payload - Room you have for WD hitch weight (about 100 lbs), passenger weight, truck cargo weight, and tongue weight. You could find, you are close, if not over GVWR on the truck.

Tires and suspension - A "P" rated or 6 ply LT rated tire could have some side wall flex. Even if the tires are proper for the load, under-inflation can cause side wall flex. Soft suspension will give you pretty much the same feeling.


Examples (your actual numbers will be slightly different):

Manufacturer says truck GVWR is 7700 lbs (based on frame, drivetrain, brakes, wheels, tires, and suspension)

Truck weighs 6400 (with full fuel and driver)
There are 1300 lbs payload left for passengers, cargo, and tongue weight.

Manufacturer says 9600 tow capacity - A 9600 lb trailer could have 1400 lbs tongue weight. Add 100 lbs for the WD hitch, and, you would have 1500 lbs hanging on the back of the truck. Thats a problem, if the available payload is only 1300 lbs. Without passengers or cargo, the truck is over weight.

[TomG2]

TriciaR1970 wrote:
We upgraded from a 24 foot travel trailer to a 33 foot travel trailer this summer. We are towing with a Ford F150 with Eco Boost engine. The truck is rated to tow up to 9600 and our TT is 6500 so we are good on weight. We moved our weight distributing hitch from the 24' to the 33', it is just a basic hitch with chains to distribute weight and a swaybar controller on the right side.

I am not a super experienced driver and so definitely take it easy, we started with a few short local trips this summer and the truck tows it easily but I find in windy weather or at highway speeds I feel more movement than I'm comfortable with. ...snip.......

Never quite sure why people will tell other people to start spending money like crazy without more information. Like, What is the GVWR or your pickup? What are the actual weights of trailer, pickup, and tongue? Having an eco boost has nothing to do with sway. Yes, I think telling someone to go out and spend a few thousand dollars on a hitch is jumping the gun. A well engineered hitch with proper weights should tow quite well.

[goducks10]

TriciaR1970 wrote:

canoe on top wrote:
I have had two Equal-I-zer hitches on two different TTs. Towed a 24' with a Jeep GC and had no sway issues. I have been very pleased with both. With my current set up with an Equal-I-zer, a 30' TT and a Ram 2500 CTD, I can comfortably tow at 70mph if I want to buy the fuel, (I have LT E rated tires on the TT). Both the Equal-I-zer and the Reece DC are popular on this forum and, for good reason. Set up right, they perform very well. A lot of times, I just remove the bars on my hitch and leave the head on the truck. That way, I don't have to lug it to the storage compartment where I keep it. I only take it off if I am going to be at one place for more than a few days or will be parking in town where parking spaces are tight. Cover the ball to lessen the amount of grease you get on your pants when you bang your shins on it. I'm a slow learner but, after a few painful encounters between my shin and the hitch head, I got a bit more careful.

One thing I would recommend, given your situation, would be an electric tongue jack. Makes hooking up and unhooking so much easier.

Thank you! The electric tongue jack is a must have before spring. Just trying to decide if I want to really spend the cash and get one of the sway controllers that changes the pivot point as them seem pretty fool proof but pricey.

I would try and look for a used HA or PP 1st. With your truck and TT an HA or PP would be the optimum choice and possibly only $2-300.00 more for a used one than a new Reese. I found a used HA several years ago and sold it last year for $50.00 less than what I paid. They are almost bullet proof and used ones hold their value well so if you don't like it or don't need it you won't lose much. A well used Reese or EQ isn't worth a whole lot. New ones aren't all that much money.

[TriciaR1970]

canoe on top wrote:
I have had two Equal-I-zer hitches on two different TTs. Towed a 24' with a Jeep GC and had no sway issues. I have been very pleased with both. With my current set up with an Equal-I-zer, a 30' TT and a Ram 2500 CTD, I can comfortably tow at 70mph if I want to buy the fuel, (I have LT E rated tires on the TT). Both the Equal-I-zer and the Reece DC are popular on this forum and, for good reason. Set up right, they perform very well. A lot of times, I just remove the bars on my hitch and leave the head on the truck. That way, I don't have to lug it to the storage compartment where I keep it. I only take it off if I am going to be at one place for more than a few days or will be parking in town where parking spaces are tight. Cover the ball to lessen the amount of grease you get on your pants when you bang your shins on it. I'm a slow learner but, after a few painful encounters between my shin and the hitch head, I got a bit more careful.

One thing I would recommend, given your situation, would be an electric tongue jack. Makes hooking up and unhooking so much easier.

Thank you! The electric tongue jack is a must have before spring. Just trying to decide if I want to really spend the cash and get one of the sway controllers that changes the pivot point as them seem pretty fool proof but pricey.

[canoe_on_top]

I have had two Equal-I-zer hitches on two different TTs. Towed a 24' with a Jeep GC and had no sway issues. I have been very pleased with both. With my current set up with an Equal-I-zer, a 30' TT and a Ram 2500 CTD, I can comfortably tow at 70mph if I want to buy the fuel, (I have LT E rated tires on the TT). Both the Equal-I-zer and the Reece DC are popular on this forum and, for good reason. Set up right, they perform very well. A lot of times, I just remove the bars on my hitch and leave the head on the truck. That way, I don't have to lug it to the storage compartment where I keep it. I only take it off if I am going to be at one place for more than a few days or will be parking in town where parking spaces are tight. Cover the ball to lessen the amount of grease you get on your pants when you bang your shins on it. I'm a slow learner but, after a few painful encounters between my shin and the hitch head, I got a bit more careful.

One thing I would recommend, given your situation, would be an electric tongue jack. Makes hooking up and unhooking so much easier.

[gafidler]

used a Equalizer with a GMC 2500HD and a 33 ft Windjammer for 4 years and never had a problem, had one panic stop and the trailer was straight behind me when I got stopped.

[Rolling_Condo]

I had a Reese Dual Cam HP hitch w/ 1200# bars on it. Even with that I was buffeted by gusting cross winds and when being passed by trucks. I upgraded to Pro Pride 3P Hitch. It has made a huge difference in how the trailer behaves.

[thomasmnile]

TriciaR1970 wrote:

Just curious is there a lot of mean people in here who can't agree without ripping each other to shreds? 🙂 I have always found RV people to be some of the best people and find that hard to believe that there is a lot of shredding.

Not a lot of shredding but it happens. Everybody's 'right' and sniping is easy to do from the anonymity of the Internet.........like any other forum, blog, etc.

As far as hitch selection, the brand of hitch you inquired about is well regarded. I use a Reese Strait Line and am happy with it. Either is within the the price range you mention in your post.

[camp-n-family]

Wow just watched the video and now I really want the Hensley Arrow but at $2500+ price point I may not be able to swing that. I love that the hitch stays intact and mounted to the trailer too so no super heavy pieces for me to lift and heft around. Will have to see if I can come up with the cash as it really does seem like a great system.

Keep an eye out for used ones on Craigslist etc. I bought mine used (3years old) for $1000. A friend found an older used one and got it for $400! Some paint and a rebuild kit and it's like brand new. Definitely worth the money, you'll never buy another hitch.

[gme3470]

The Equal-I-zer hitch has worked well for us on several large trailers, including using it off-road in CA desert areas. It is really a heavy duty system and was simple to set up. We have recently downsized to a smaller trailer but still use a lighter version of the Equal-I-zer. Others have mentioned the Reese hitch and it also would be a good choice.

[TriciaR1970]

newman fulltimer wrote:
If you have soft shocks the trailer will make the truck unstable a heavier duty shock will have better control.
Tires if they are a 6ply tire there is very little sidewall strenght so they will want to roll side to side and create sway.put on a Lt or a 10 ply you will have better control

Thank you will check into tire ply and see what we have.