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What do you seal your clearance lights with??

CptnBG
Explorer
Explorer
Last time i used Proflex on the cap seams and clearance lights. Good stuff but it stuck so well to the light lenses that when I tried to pry them off, the bases came apart. Will silicone suffice? It seems to come off easier.
'03 2500HD CrewCab SB 6.0 Gas 4x4
'04 Northstar Laredo SC
Bilsteins 5100
2014 1500 Silverado 5.3 Double Cab
1951 Chevy 3100
Formally OBXcamper
11 REPLIES 11

wintersun
Explorer II
Explorer II
Lance recommends ProFlex sealant and that is what I recently used after replacing the tungsten lamps on the camper's running lights. I box cutter blade can be used to sever the old sealant enough to pry off the plastic covers.

For cleanup and removal of ProFlex and Dicor the best product I have found (and it is sold by Home Depot) is Kleen Strip Industrial Maintenance Coating Thinner. It works great and seems to have been designed specifically for use with these types of products.

I use the old trick of smoothing the new sealant bead with an ice cube.

If you do replace the tungsten lamps with the T10 LED ones it is important to have power to the sockets so you can verify that the lamps light up. If the do not light, then pull the LED lamp and rotate it 180 degrees and insert it again. There is a polarity aspect and at least with the Lance campers both of the wires are white so no way to know which is positive or negative.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Super_Dave wrote:
Reddog1 wrote:
At one time I used butyl tape between the TC and light and also on the lens, but not on the bottom of the lens. If you put any sealant on the complete lens, it is prone to condensation inside which in turn will corrode the bulb contact. Electrical grease helps prevent the corrosion.

It seemed as though every time I used my TC, one or more of my lights did not work, or I had lost a lens. I finally changed them all for L.E.D. lights, at $12 each. I have had no light issue for over eight years now.

Red, this reads like you didn't have to seal the LED lights. How does that work?


I purchased the sealed units. Need caulk only between light and TC. Although they cost more, I preferred the clear. Thet do have different styles.

Trailer Lights

I do not have/use any bulb style LEDs. I used 15 7/16" LED Stop / turn / tail light bar in addition to my existing OEM tail lights.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Super_Dave
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1 wrote:
At one time I used butyl tape between the TC and light and also on the lens, but not on the bottom of the lens. If you put any sealant on the complete lens, it is prone to condensation inside which in turn will corrode the bulb contact. Electrical grease helps prevent the corrosion.

It seemed as though every time I used my TC, one or more of my lights did not work, or I had lost a lens. I finally changed them all for L.E.D. lights, at $12 each. I have had no light issue for over eight years now.

Red, this reads like you didn't have to seal the LED lights. How does that work?
Truck: 2006 Dodge 3500 Dually
Rig: 2018 Big Country 3155 RLK
Boat: 21' North River Seahawk

wcjeep
Explorer
Explorer
When I converted to led I fully sealed the lights. If using standard bulbs my manufacturer recommends not sealing the bottom edge.

CptnBG
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks all. I made temporary repairs so I could get my state inspection. I had 3 lights out and 2 intermittent. All were due to the tap splices behind the mounting plates. Next time I offload camper, I'm going to replace the problem lights with led lights and redo all connections, maybe even solder and tape.
'03 2500HD CrewCab SB 6.0 Gas 4x4
'04 Northstar Laredo SC
Bilsteins 5100
2014 1500 Silverado 5.3 Double Cab
1951 Chevy 3100
Formally OBXcamper

mockturtle
Explorer II
Explorer II
I don't have a truck camper but I do have clearance lights. One day I noticed one of the lens covers was missing. Surprisingly, none of the local auto parts stores carried a Bargman #59 so picked up one from an RV parts store a couple of months later when I happened to be in the area. No harm was done by rain or other elements and when I got the new cover I just popped it into place.
2015 Tiger Bengal TX 4X4
Chevy 3500HD, 6L V8

RV_daytrader
Explorer
Explorer
Dont use silicone and dont seal the bottom edge!...silicone will stick OK the first time, but will leave a slick film when you remove it that NOTHING will stick to, not even new silicone!...and leaving the bottom edge unsealed will let any moisture that gets in a way to drain out.
YODA...our lil Toyota!
1989 Toyota Seabreeze

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
At one time I used butyl tape between the TC and light and also on the lens, but not on the bottom of the lens. If you put any sealant on the complete lens, it is prone to condensation inside which in turn will corrode the bulb contact. Electrical grease helps prevent the corrosion.

It seemed as though every time I used my TC, one or more of my lights did not work, or I had lost a lens. I finally changed them all for L.E.D. lights, at $12 each. I have had no light issue for over eight years now.


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

camperpaul
Explorer
Explorer
I use plumber's putty to seal the bases and I never seal the lenses.

I have lost track of how many times I have heard,
"I sealed the lenses and they still fill up with water."

When you seal the lenses, you block the drain holes on the bottoms and they fill up with water when it rains.
Paul
Extra Class Ham Radio operator - K9ERG (since 1956)
Retired Electronics Engineer and Antenna Designer
Was a campground host at IBSP (2006-2010) - now retired.
Single - Full-timer
2005 Four Winds 29Q
2011 2500HD 6.0L GMC Denali (Gasser)

pugslyyy
Explorer
Explorer
I use butyl putty tape around my lights. Not a big fan of silicone.

donn0128
Explorer II
Explorer II
Comes off easier because it does not stick well. Dycor is my go to product for all my RV related projects. That is after the butyl putty tape.