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Wobble Stopper

bdlaise
Explorer
Explorer
It pays to read the trailer life magazine. In the May 2014 edition I found this tip/modification in the 10 minute tech section submitted by two other RVers. I used the same materials. These things really do reduce the bounce and wobble in the trailer. They're easy to setup and didn't cost that much to make. The materials needed are two 8 ft 2x4s, two 10-to 14 ft cargo straps *get the ratcheting kind instead of the friction type, you'll get better tightness). Cut a 45 degree angle were the 2x4 meets the top side of the frame, then determine the proper length you'll need based on the height of your trailer to the ground. I cut a 30 degree angle on mine, but you can use a 45 or what ever angle best suits your needs. The drill holes through the 2x4s for eye bolts approximately 6 to 8 inches from the end closest to the ground. I opted to split the difference and place the eye bolt in the center or just off center (towards the ground end) to keep the cargo strap out of the dirt, and provide a uniform pressure against the frame and the ground. I stained and sealed mine, for looks and protect them against the weather. Like the others RVers noted these really do make a difference.





20 REPLIES 20

fallsrider
Explorer
Explorer
This is a great idea, and inexpensive. But our underbody is enclosed with a fabric. The 2x4s can't be installed up beside the frame. Oh well...

dewey02
Explorer II
Explorer II
They hook to the eyebolts on the 2x4s. When they are tightened, they pull the 2x4s closer together, exerting pressure on the ground and the trailer frame and therefore help stabilize the trailer.

TerryandKim
Explorer
Explorer
bdlaise wrote:
It pays to read the trailer life magazine. In the May 2014 edition I found this tip/modification in the 10 minute tech section submitted by two other RVers. I used the same materials. These things really do reduce the bounce and wobble in the trailer. They're easy to setup and didn't cost that much to make. The materials needed are two 8 ft 2x4s, two 10-to 14 ft cargo straps *get the ratcheting kind instead of the friction type, you'll get better tightness). Cut a 45 degree angle were the 2x4 meets the top side of the frame, then determine the proper length you'll need based on the height of your trailer to the ground. I cut a 30 degree angle on mine, but you can use a 45 or what ever angle best suits your needs. The drill holes through the 2x4s for eye bolts approximately 6 to 8 inches from the end closest to the ground. I opted to split the difference and place the eye bolt in the center or just off center (towards the ground end) to keep the cargo strap out of the dirt, and provide a uniform pressure against the frame and the ground. I stained and sealed mine, for looks and protect them against the weather. Like the others RVers noted these really do make a difference.


Umm, where do the tie down straps go??






1999 GMC Sierra 1500 ExtCab SLE 5.3l 3.73 - Curt WD, airbags
2010 Jayco JayFlight 26BHS G2
1 Wonderful Wife!, 2 Great Boys!, 1 Goofy Basset Hound (Floyd),Oh, and me.

mosseater
Explorer II
Explorer II
Ours is pretty bad sometimes. We usually don't need to set an alarm clock because when those in the rear begin to move about, it snatches the front bedroom around pretty sharply. I might have to look into this.
"It`s not important that you know all the answers, it`s only important to know where to get all the answers" Arone Kleamyck
"...An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." Col. Jeff Cooper
Sunset Creek 298 BH

wrenchbender
Explorer
Explorer
No problemo mine is solid once setup

thomasmnile
Explorer
Explorer
fla-gypsy wrote:
But this is a lot easier to do, adjusts to different heights, is lighter and easier to handle. The idea has been around for a number of years and was first marketed as Wayne's RV stabilizer. BTW, it works well

http://www.dyersonline.com/valterra-stabilizer-stand.html


Used the Wayne's when we had our fifth wheel but let 'em go when we bought the TT because they wouldn't work with the TT. Did work nicely with the fifth wheel though and couldn't beat the price.

Nvr2loud
Explorer II
Explorer II
downtheroad wrote:
Different strokes:
I like a little wobble. Keeps me mindful that I am "camping."
Otherwise I'm sitting in our rig surrounded by:
  • full sized shower
  • Kurig coffee maker
  • 2 door frig with full freezer
  • leather recliners
  • Sleep Number bed
  • central heating
  • ducted air conditioner
  • surround sound stereo
  • WiFi


Well, you get the idea. Anyway, nice mod.


When I'm in my trailer... I'm not camping, I'm glamping.

I still camp in a tent, paddle-in sites by kayak, and the tent is only 30" inches high.

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
Interesting idea. I like it thanks for posting.It looks like tightening the ratchet strap slightly lifts the trailer. Am I correct that the top end of the leg is just wedged into the top web on the i-beam frame?
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

downtheroad
Explorer
Explorer
Different strokes:
I like a little wobble. Keeps me mindful that I am "camping."
Otherwise I'm sitting in our rig surrounded by:
  • full sized shower
  • Kurig coffee maker
  • 2 door frig with full freezer
  • leather recliners
  • Sleep Number bed
  • central heating
  • ducted air conditioner
  • surround sound stereo
  • WiFi


Well, you get the idea. Anyway, nice mod.
"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane."

Arctic Fox 25Y
GMC Duramax
Blue Ox SwayPro

Nvr2loud
Explorer II
Explorer II
DutchmenSport wrote:
Interesting idea. Question though. I'm assuming you use the ratchet straps between the 2 eye bolts. When you tighten the strap, the support literally digs into the dirt (or pavement) and the other end presses upwards against the inside of your trailer frame. I see how that could make everything more stable.

But, when you break camp, how hard is is to get those supports out-of-there? If they've dug into the ground, or wedged themselves on the asphalt or concrete, can you still break them free? Or do you have to raise the trailer end to free them?


I suppose that I would install them directly in front of the wheels so that I could raise the nose of the trailer to loosen them.

Right now, when I break camp, I raise my rear stab-jacks, and my rear scissor jacks, then raise the nose of the trailer and all the forward jacks leave the ground making it very easy to raise them. It also helps drain any water from the slide before I retract it, and it also makes the low-point drain really low for fresh water drainage.

fla-gypsy
Explorer
Explorer
But this is a lot easier to do, adjusts to different heights, is lighter and easier to handle. The idea has been around for a number of years and was first marketed as Wayne's RV stabilizer. BTW, it works well

http://www.dyersonline.com/valterra-stabilizer-stand.html
This member is not responsible for opinions that are inaccurate due to faulty information provided by the original poster. Use them at your own discretion.

09 SuperDuty Crew Cab 6.8L/4.10(The Black Pearl)
06 Keystone Hornet 29 RLS/(The Cracker Cabana)

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
Interesting idea. Question though. I'm assuming you use the ratchet straps between the 2 eye bolts. When you tighten the strap, the support literally digs into the dirt (or pavement) and the other end presses upwards against the inside of your trailer frame. I see how that could make everything more stable.

But, when you break camp, how hard is is to get those supports out-of-there? If they've dug into the ground, or wedged themselves on the asphalt or concrete, can you still break them free? Or do you have to raise the trailer end to free them?

Bigbird65
Explorer
Explorer
Nvr2loud wrote:
Bigbird65 wrote:
I'm confused. Why would I want to add that stuff when the leveling jacks stabilize the trailer just fine for me? Must be something that I'm missing.


My trailer wobbled a lot on the (4) corner A-type stab jacks. Enough wobble when any of my children or guests (our trailer often has 9 people inside)walked around in the middle of the night, it would wake me or my wife up.


Since my trailer is only 22' I did not realize that long trailers had this problem. I understand now.
2017 RAM 1500 Quad Cab 5.7L Hemi, 8 speed 3.21
2018 Winnebago Minnie 2250DS

Nvr2loud
Explorer II
Explorer II
robsouth wrote:
Much ado about nothing IMHO. I don't worry about a little wiggle. Different strokes.


Unless you have my trailer, 9 people inside, and anyone waking up to use the bathroom at night wakes half the other people due to rocking of the whole trailer.