CheapHeat furnace conversion

[2-MTnesters]

I was wondering if anyone has converted their factory installed LP furnace to the CheapHeat system. Seems like a very practical system when connected to shore power. No worrying about running out of gas and no hassling with multiple small electric space heaters. Wondering if it heats the coach as well as when using gas. Tim

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I believe that RV furnaces are closer to 80% efficient--I thought it was 60%, but someone corrected me with information from Atwood.

The Cheap Heat page quotes 16 amps (smaller unit) and 21 amps "per leg" for the 50 amp service. That implies 120 volt operation. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Perhaps harold1946 knows for sure since he has installed several systems.

I'm glad the system meets your needs.

jcthorne wrote:
Puts out approx. 16,000 BTU witch is roughly equal to a 26,000 BTU gas heater (60% efficient)

[pianotuna]

Hi 2-MTnesters,

It's too bad the fan idea won't work for your RV.

Do you know what "wattage" is required to keep the RV warm and comfy in the worst of the cold weather? If so, here are the outputs of the three most common "cheap heat" systems:

The 30 amp DH-18 does 1920 watts or 6551 btu.

The 50 amp DH-37 does double that at 3840 watts or 13102 btu

The 50 amp DH-50 does 5040 watts or 17197 btu

These numbers assume 120 volt power with no voltage drop. I'd derate them by about 15% just to make sure the correct unit is chosen. In my climate the 30 amp unit would not be suitable since all the units are "either or" and can not be used to supplement the propane furnace, as far as I am aware.

I've highly modified my RV including spending $900.00 for insulated covers for windows, vents, skylights, side door and a "blanket" to block off the cab. The requirements have dropped from 343 watts per delta T degree c (190 watts per degree F) in the "stock" configuration to just 76 watts per delta T degree C (~43 watts per degree F)

What keeps me from the cheap heat system is the lack of fail over to propane heat. I RV in extreme cold (down to -37 C (-34 f)) and a two hour heating failure might freeze the RV up tighter than a drum.

[jcthorne]

Retired JSO wrote:
Your furnace will be close to 30-35,000 BTU.
I believe, Cheap Heat is about the same as the overpriced 120 volt electric heaters, so called produced by Amish Craftsman, to heat an entire home. The most heat they can supply is just over 5000 BTU. The same amount of heat a $39 Walmart space heater can supply. No where close to 30,000 BTU.

This is completely wrong. The 50A cheapheat system is roughly 5000 watts and runs 20A at 240VAC. Puts out approx. 16,000 BTU witch is roughly equal to a 26,000 BTU gas heater (60% efficient).

We installed the Cheapheat system about a year ago and could not be more pleased with it. Got rid of the 4 space heaters and the coach is warm and evenly heated throughout. Including the basement compartments. We have only used it in temps down to the low 20s but it was still cycling with significant off time so can go colder. This in a 38ft motorhome with 2 slides.

[2-MTnesters]

Like Harold, I would also like to eliminate a bunch of space heaters and use my on-board equipment. I don't particularly want to install baseboard heaters either. I can install a heat strip in the front air unit to help supplement what the electric furnace falls short of. I have 4 slides and am around 38' so not sure how well the furnace add-on will work but from what Harold describes it should do pretty well. Granted, the colder the outside temps the greater the probability I would have to use an additional space heater but I believe that would be on rare occasions. As for the fan mounted in the return grill for my furnace, a great idea but not sure it would work well with my camper because of the location. Return grates are located in the steps leading up to the bedroom and not really that close to the furnace. Furnace is mounted in the street side wall just aft of my convenience center and it's not a straight run of open space from the steps to it. Also seems like the fan would create a pretty good draft at floor level. I guess as stated before, my main goal is to utilize my factory onboard equipment with minimal additional heaters sitting around and the "Cheap Heat" is the only product that I've seen that remotely allows this while also supplying heat to the basement area as well. If there is another product out there that accomplishes this I would like to see it and compare the two.

[harold1946]

Keep in mind that a 29ft RV with no slides will not require the BTU to heat as one 35ft with two slides.
For me it was a no brainer to eliminate the 5 space heaters required to maintain even heat throughout the RV with no way of heating the holding tanks.
Don also neglected to include that he runs additional extension cords from the power pole to supply the additional space heaters and fans.

If space heaters are your choice, thats fine. We are fulltimers and got tired of space heaters all over the mortorhome. We now have the option of gas or electric central heating with no hot and cold spots and no space heaters.

[pianotuna]

Hi Danny,

The fan is, in this case, 120 volt. I power it with an inverter when traveling. Amazon sells them dual window fan, so does Walmart. Make sure to get the simplest one you can.

Dannyabear1 wrote:
I like that fan idea, is it 12 volts or 120? where can you buy one?

[christopherglen]

The intake for my heater is in the cabinet under the entertainment center. I wonder if wiring a 1500 watt heater under there dumping heat at the intake of the furnace and running the furnace on low will provide similar results? A relay to kick the heater off when the furnace starts should eliminate over temp issues.

As far as where to buy the fan, go to the website of your favorite big box store, and put window fan in the search box.

[Dannyabear1]

I like that fan idea, is it 12 volts or 120? where can you buy one?

[pianotuna]

Hi Tim,

If basement heating is what you are trying to accomplish then replace the return air grill on the furnace with a fan. On my rv that circulates warm "living space" air under the cabinets and pushes some air along the furnace duct work. I chose to use a dual window fan unit which is controlled by a mechanical thermostat that lives beside the water pump next to the outdoor wall of the RV.

The fan unit draws just 23 watts and works better than a 1500 watt fan based heater which I tried using inside the cabinet.

2-MTnesters wrote:

Pauljdav wrote:
The only benefit cheap heat has is it also provides some under belly heat when it is below freezing.

This is what I'm trying to accomplish, I would like to have all of the benefits of the gas furnace, i.e. heat in basement area as well as in the rest of the coach, without having to worry about the gas consumption. I won't be camping in 0 or even teen temps, but would like to be able to use 5th wheel in temps down to somewhere in the 20's without freezing up the water lines. Harold, you and a some of the others have been most helpful with your information. Thank you. Tim

[2-MTnesters]

Pauljdav wrote:
The only benefit cheap heat has is it also provides some under belly heat when it is below freezing.

This is what I'm trying to accomplish, I would like to have all of the benefits of the gas furnace, i.e. heat in basement area as well as in the rest of the coach, without having to worry about the gas consumption. I won't be camping in 0 or even teen temps, but would like to be able to use 5th wheel in temps down to somewhere in the 20's without freezing up the water lines. Harold, you and a some of the others have been most helpful with your information. Thank you. Tim

[pianotuna]

Hi harold1946,

You are off topic. Try not to go off subject or hijack the thread.

[harold1946]

Why is it that when someone is asking specific questions about a particular product, there are always those that feel the need to go off subject or hijack the thread????

[Pauljdav]

I would put in a "Cadet" heater. Most trailers have space for one and it is MUCH cheaper than "cheap heat" The only benefit cheap heat has is it also provides some under belly heat when it is below freezing.

[John___Angela]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Do you happen to remember what brand of laminate you used? Who did the work for you? Is it 120 volt or 12 volt? Thanks in advance.

John & Angela wrote:
under floor (laminate) electric heat

Hi Harold. Hope you are staying warm. Looks like the west got its first cold snap. We are using Pergo Laminate. It's the XP Peruvian mahogany. We did it ourselves. It is approved for under floor heating. In my opinion this kind of heating really just prides warm feet as opposed to heating a room. The two pads we use provide a total of 225 watts over 22.5 square feet. It is 10 percent of the roughly 2400 watts of electric heat spread over 6 locations of electric heat in the coach. 4 in the coach and 2 in the basement. Makes for even warm quiet heat to about minus 5 or so. I like the idea of slow speed forced air systems including yours. Moving air is always better in freezing conditions especially when plumbing is involved.

Hope this helps.

J and A

[2-MTnesters]

Harold thank you for all of your helpful information. I believe this will be my next mod. Happy and safe travels! Tim