CheapHeat furnace conversion

[2-MTnesters]

I was wondering if anyone has converted their factory installed LP furnace to the CheapHeat system. Seems like a very practical system when connected to shore power. No worrying about running out of gas and no hassling with multiple small electric space heaters. Wondering if it heats the coach as well as when using gas. Tim

[christopherglen]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Christopher,

I doubt the propane would run out in two hours. Nor would I run low on 12 volt power to run the propane furnace. Power failure may be as simple as someone accidentally unplugging a cord by bumping it.

I am redundant for heating. Electric is the first line of defense, then the propane furnace. The RV can use both together if need be.

If necessary I can run the generator, then the V-10 motor for the class C. Of course, for those two options I must be there.

It is a deal breaker for me that cheap heat does not do fail over.

christopherglenn wrote:
If you are worried about failover, then portable or baseboard with thermostats are about the only options. Don't forget AC power goes out, but propane runs out as well.

I didn't mean that propane runs out fast, or the batteries fail in the cold. I was not trying to say one was better then the other, What I was attempting to say is nothing is foolproof, and batteries do fail, ac power fails, and propane tanks do run out. Having a automatic backup for the heater, in times that a heat failure will cause expensive damage - is something that is needed.

[harold1946]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi jc,

Then they should provide it as an extra cost option instead of taking an Ostrich approach.

jcthorne wrote:
Yes, an 'auto fail over' would only require the addition of a single relay to the installation. Its just something that very few would have need for so not included in the install kit.

Were the extra heaters and box fans standard equipment or options from Kustom Coach, or is the ostrich approach their SOP ?????
Heat ducts to the holding tanks?
Insulated floor?
Portable generator?
Free standing inverter?
Wider tires?
Solar panels, charge controller?
875 AH battery bank?
Need I go on?

[pianotuna]

Hi jc,

Then they should provide it as an extra cost option instead of taking an Ostrich approach.

jcthorne wrote:
Yes, an 'auto fail over' would only require the addition of a single relay to the installation. Its just something that very few would have need for so not included in the install kit.

[harold1946]

RV Comfort Systems' "Cheap Heat" is attracting more interest. In the few days this thread has been running I have received 11 PMs requesting my experience in using it.
One of them said that the units can now be purchased at Camping World, but I have not confirmed that.

[jcthorne]

Yes, an 'auto fail over' would only require the addition of a single relay to the installation. Its just something that very few would have need for so not included in the install kit.

[harold1946]

Pianotuna is fully aware of how to install a "fail over". He posted his version of how to do so several months ago.
Unless he has upgraded his coach to 50 amp service, he would be limited to the DH-18 wihch would certainly not be adequate at -40F. He is in a quite unique situation, which few others will ever encounter unless one feels that camping at -40 is enjoyable.

[harold1946]

Tim: Great question. I know that several have made the mistake of ordering the wrong installation kit, not realizing there are three.
I think I can clear that up for you. There is only one heating element and it is used in every plenum. The power output is controlled by the components of the installation kit, with the largest being model DH-50.
Part of your confusion was caused by me. I mis-spoke when I said DH-37, you want DH-50. That will give you the most BTU.
I sincerely apologize for causing the confusion. I had three members PMing me at the same time, requesting information on the system. 😮

[pianotuna]

Hi Christopher,

I doubt the propane would run out in two hours. Nor would I run low on 12 volt power to run the propane furnace. Power failure may be as simple as someone accidentally unplugging a cord by bumping it.

I am redundant for heating. Electric is the first line of defense, then the propane furnace. The RV can use both together if need be.

If necessary I can run the generator, then the V-10 motor for the class C. Of course, for those two options I must be there.

It is a deal breaker for me that cheap heat does not do fail over.

christopherglenn wrote:
If you are worried about failover, then portable or baseboard with thermostats are about the only options. Don't forget AC power goes out, but propane runs out as well.

[2-MTnesters]

harold1946 wrote:

2-MTnesters wrote:
pianotuna thanks for the information. I would be getting the DH-37 unit as that is what the website matches to my furnace. My Montana does have the 4 seasons polar package with the sealed underbelly, R-38 batted insulation in the floors and ceiling, thicker sidewalls and insulated storage compartment doors. I really don't plan on staying in it in anything colder than the mid 2o's and won't be full timing for several more years and when that happens I'll be heading to warmer climates this time of year! Side note: I guess I can always use the fireplace heat to help out as well. Tim
John & Angela the baseboard heaters look great in your coach. Much smaller and more stream line than I had imagined.

The DH-37 is the plenum type and you will also need to specify which installation kit when ordering, there are three.

Harold, Thank you for clearing that up. I was confused because I couldn't understand why I wouldn't be able to have the higher wattage unit. So now I see that I can have the HVK50 with the HD-37 plenum and whichever install kit I would need. I tried to call the company today but no answer so will keep trying. This is why I truly love this forum. A wealth of knowledge and information Although I don't understand why this chart is saying that the DH-37 is a lesser BTU system. Does this mean that I can or can't have the largest unit that they offer? Sorry I'm so confused. Tim

[christopherglen]

If you are worried about failover, then portable or baseboard with thermostats are about the only options. Don't forget AC power goes out, but propane runs out as well.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

The k50 unit may have enough reserve capacity to heat most RV's at -40.

Switching over is fine and dandy--but if you are NOT in the RV (and I am not, because I'm out working to make a living) you can't switch it over. That's common sense.

[harold1946]

2-MTnesters wrote:
pianotuna thanks for the information. I would be getting the DH-37 unit as that is what the website matches to my furnace. My Montana does have the 4 seasons polar package with the sealed underbelly, R-38 batted insulation in the floors and ceiling, thicker sidewalls and insulated storage compartment doors. I really don't plan on staying in it in anything colder than the mid 2o's and won't be full timing for several more years and when that happens I'll be heading to warmer climates this time of year! Side note: I guess I can always use the fireplace heat to help out as well. Tim
John & Angela the baseboard heaters look great in your coach. Much smaller and more stream line than I had imagined.

The HD-37 is the plenum type and you will also need to specify which installation kit when ordering, there are three.

[harold1946]

Installation kits are:
HVK18 - 120 volt, 1800 watts
HVK37 - 240 volt, 3750 watts
HVK50 - 240 volt, 5000 watts

Most of us have enough commom sense to switch to LP if we expect temperatures which the cheap heat system quite obviously could not handle.

[2-MTnesters]

pianotuna thanks for the information. I would be getting the DH-37 unit as that is what the website matches to my furnace. My Montana does have the 4 seasons polar package with the sealed underbelly, R-38 batted insulation in the floors and ceiling, thicker sidewalls and insulated storage compartment doors. I really don't plan on staying in it in anything colder than the mid 2o's and won't be full timing for several more years and when that happens I'll be heading to warmer climates this time of year! Side note: I guess I can always use the fireplace heat to help out as well. Tim
John & Angela the baseboard heaters look great in your coach. Much smaller and more stream line than I had imagined.

[John___Angela]

jcthorne wrote:

Retired JSO wrote:
Your furnace will be close to 30-35,000 BTU.
I believe, Cheap Heat is about the same as the overpriced 120 volt electric heaters, so called produced by Amish Craftsman, to heat an entire home. The most heat they can supply is just over 5000 BTU. The same amount of heat a $39 Walmart space heater can supply. No where close to 30,000 BTU.

This is completely wrong. The 50A cheapheat system is roughly 5000 watts and runs 20A at 240VAC. Puts out approx. 16,000 BTU witch is roughly equal to a 26,000 BTU gas heater (60% efficient).

We installed the Cheapheat system about a year ago and could not be more pleased with it. Got rid of the 4 space heaters and the coach is warm and evenly heated throughout. Including the basement compartments. We have only used it in temps down to the low 20s but it was still cycling with significant off time so can go colder. This in a 38ft motorhome with 2 slides.

Good post reference the efficiency of propane furnaces. Propane furnaces work great but as stated they loose a lot of heat out the exhaust pipe. An electric approach is 100 percent efficient of course. The other thing is the heat becomes much more even without the valleys and dips of a propane furnace. The furnace motor runs longer but with less ups and downs I think the effect would be really comfortable, not too mention as Harold pointed out the ability to run it slow speed is a huge plus as it would be really quiet. Baseboard heaters are a nice and neat permanent solution but many RV's have limited open wall space so install can be difficult. This along with a combination of under floor heat worked for us but it can be a challenge. I'll include a picture of one of our 500 watt baseboard in case it helps the OP or others in solving a problem using a mixed approach. We have decided not to go the cheap heat route now as we solved out problem but had it been around when we made our mods (9 years ago now) I think we would have gone that way. Good luck and let is know what you decide.

Front stairway 500 watt heater. Takes the cold off the windshield effect.



Bedroom 300 watt.