Converting to 12v fridge Canada question

[gmckenzie]

So I'm thinking hard about converting to a 12v fridge. My plan would be to remove the current 6 cu ft fridge, make some adjustments to the top section to give me more room and to put in a 12v fridge.

So, first question is who would be a good source for one in Canada. My Google didn't turn up any on-line suppliers, and I've no idea what it would cost to buy one from etrailer or the like in the US and have it shipped up, but I doubt it would be cheap.

Second is, would I have to upgrade the 12v wiring that is currently in place? I'm almost thinking of running wiring the length of the trailer and bypassing the panel. I'd put a breaker at the batteries, but it's 30+ ft between the fridge and the batteries so I'd run some pretty hefty wires for this. Could come up through the hole the current propane comes through as it wouldn't be needed anymore.

Lastly, how loud are these things? Again it's 20+ ft from the fridge to the bedroom (front bedroom and fridge on the back wall).

Thanks.

[noteven]

Nova Kool Coquitlam BC Canada

[CaLBaR]

theoldwizard1 wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
I went straight 12V vs 120V and an inverter. Why run the inverter if you don't have to. Yes you can run the 120V fridge on 120V elec hookup while camping. You can run the 12V fridge on 120V as well using the TT's converter.

Anyone considering changing to a 120VAC refrigerator with a pure sine wave inverter, should consider getting an inverter/charger/automatic transfer switch. It will make your life much easier !

Remove your old converter. Hook the DC distribution (fuse) panel directly to your battery bank. Connect the inverter/charger/transfer switch to the battery bank. All "shore power" (the external power cord) goes directly to the inverter/charger/transfer switch which then feeds all AC outlet in your RV.

You're done ! No switches to change when changing power !! "Top on the line" models have a separate input for your generator and an auto-start output.

This is what I did when I added the inverter to run the small bar fridge in the outdoor kitchen while travelling. Can keep our food cold outside now and no need to go into the trailer at stops. Works great. Don't even need to think about it since it works automatically.

[theoldwizard1]

goducks10 wrote:
I went straight 12V vs 120V and an inverter. Why run the inverter if you don't have to. Yes you can run the 120V fridge on 120V elec hookup while camping. You can run the 12V fridge on 120V as well using the TT's converter.

Anyone considering changing to a 120VAC refrigerator with a pure sine wave inverter, should consider getting an inverter/charger/automatic transfer switch. It will make your life much easier !

Remove your old converter. Hook the DC distribution (fuse) panel directly to your battery bank. Connect the inverter/charger/transfer switch to the battery bank. All "shore power" (the external power cord) goes directly to the inverter/charger/transfer switch which then feeds all AC outlet in your RV.

You're done ! No switches to change when changing power !! "Top on the line" models have a separate input for your generator and an auto-start output.

[n0arp]

Why not convert your fridge using a JC Refrigeration kit? Only issue is you would have to buy it from the US and have it imported, and I don't know what that entails.

We just converted the Norcold in our truck camper and it works great.



We went with the 120V compressor for slightly faster cooling and because we had plenty of solar/battery to cover the inverter losses, but they make a 12V version. Seems to use 1.1-1.3kWh/day for an 8cu ft unit.

Edit - saw that you are looking to increase the size of your fridge. But this is still useful information for people looking at this thread, so I'll leave it.

Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum recommended limit of 640px maximum width.

[goducks10]

I went straight 12V vs 120V and an inverter. Why run the inverter if you don't have to. Yes you can run the 120V fridge on 120V elec hookup while camping. You can run the 12V fridge on 120V as well using the TT's converter.
If the inverter goes out you'll be out of a fridge if dry camping.
Also an inverter draws a small amount of power when running.
I looked at it like using the lights in the trailer. You can use them whether the TT's plugged in or not.

[theoldwizard1]

FYI, based on some comments.

There IS such a thing as a compressor refrigerator. It uses a compressor that looks a lot like a standard refrigerator compressor.

The real question is, do you go 12VDC or 120VAC with a pure sine wave inverter ?

[2oldman]

gmckenzie wrote:
Current fridge is 2 way, so I'm thinking the 12v wiring is pretty light.

The owner's manual should recommend wiring size.

[goducks10]

gmckenzie wrote:
Sorry, yes I mean the new absorption fridge. Current fridge is 2 way, so I'm thinking the 12v wiring is pretty light.

goducks10 What model GE did you go with? Haven't looked at them yet.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/General-Electric-GPV10FSNSB-Refrigerator-Freezer-p/gpv10fsnsb.htm
I actually bought it from a local appliance store.
I paid right around $950 with a 3 year warranty.
It may not be the most efficient but for us it works great.

FWIW I put some 1" thick Styrofoam on the inside of the exterior black fridge vent panel to help with weather proof.

This is before finishing all the trim.

[pianotuna]

2 6v lead acid only yields about 1300 usable watt hours.

[gmckenzie]

obgraham wrote:
OP, what do you see as the advantage to a pure 12v reefer compared to a 2-way?

Currently have a 6 cu ft fridge that is not big enough for our needs. Going to a fridge of this type means I could put a 8 cu ft in without doing any cutting, and a little bit of work would get me a 10 cu ft unit.

We don't boondock a lot and it's mostly weekends so with 2 6v batteries and a small solar panel, I could run one. Other option (that's cheaper) is bringing a small second fridge along with us when not boondocking.

[obgraham]

OP, what do you see as the advantage to a pure 12v reefer compared to a 2-way?

[gmckenzie]

Sorry, yes I mean the new absorption fridge. Current fridge is 2 way, so I'm thinking the 12v wiring is pretty light.

goducks10 What model GE did you go with? Haven't looked at them yet.

[pianotuna]

My existing absorption fridge is a 3 way--so the dc wiring is #10.

[2oldman]

Are you talking about a 12v compressor fridge? I guess if you ask if it's loud, the answer is yes.