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Dining Table wobble solution

therink
Explorer
Explorer
The 2 pedestal dining table in my new Keystone 340fbh wobbles to the point that eating a meal on it is a disaster waiting to happen. I have thought about fabricating dimensional lumber and some sort of latching devices to secure the table to the wall below the picture window. Whatever I do, I want to design something that secures the table to the wall with something I can unlatch versus removing screws. There is about a 5" drop between the inside bottom edge of the table and the wall (bottom of Window frame). In one of my previous rigs, the bottom edge of the Window was above the table so I was able to secure the table to the wall with common Window locks.
I am wondering what others have done to stabilize the table.
Thanks, Steve
Steve Rinker
Rochester, NY
2013 Keystone Sydney 340FBH 5th Wheel, 12,280 lbs loaded (scale)
2015.5 GMC Sierra Denali 3500, SRW, Duramax, CC, Payload 3,700 (sticker- not scaled yet)

Take my posts for what they are, opinions based on my own experiences.
28 REPLIES 28

Akeru
Explorer
Explorer
When I bought my trailer, used, the table wobbled a great deal. Out of frustration and failed attempts to correct the issue, I removed the table leg bases and found that they were cracked at the seam where the bottom meets the sides. I was surprised they had not completely separated.

I replaced with new ones from camping world and what a difference. I am sure these too will eventually crack...but less banging may be key.

It was also recommended to me to take the table off while traveling. That table is heavy and I can see where this would be a benefit to the legs and bases.

Anyway, thought I would post what I found. I would not have seen the cracks in the base unless I pulled them out. While the table design isn't the best, we can safely drink coffee at the table again.

Camp__Forrest__
Explorer
Explorer
camperpaul wrote:
Camp, Forrest, Camp! wrote:

I should mention that the wobble in my table is coming from the base itself. The support tube fits snugly, but when I move the table, I can clearly see the base deforming and allowing the table to move.

Is that base made of plastic?

If so, replace it with one made of die cast aluminum.
It is a cast aluminum, recessed base. It's pretty tragic how flimsy it is.
-2000 Chevy K3500 CC DRW 7.4L, Auto; 2000 Arctic Fox 1150 WB; 1999 Bayliner Capri 1800LS Outboard
-Air Lift bags, Torklift tie-downs, Superhitch w/48", Rancho RS9000X, K&N FIPK, MagnaFlow exhaust.

camperpaul
Explorer
Explorer
Camp, Forrest, Camp! wrote:

I should mention that the wobble in my table is coming from the base itself. The support tube fits snugly, but when I move the table, I can clearly see the base deforming and allowing the table to move.

Is that base made of plastic?

If so, replace it with one made of die cast aluminum.
Paul
Extra Class Ham Radio operator - K9ERG (since 1956)
Retired Electronics Engineer and Antenna Designer
Was a campground host at IBSP (2006-2010) - now retired.
Single - Full-timer
2005 Four Winds 29Q
2011 2500HD 6.0L GMC Denali (Gasser)

Camp__Forrest__
Explorer
Explorer
We have a U-shaped dinette in the camper. The table is supported by a single leg. I was thinking of attaching a vertical support to the front of the rear bench. I would then attach a horizontal piece that protruded towards the middle ofthe dinette with the table mounted on top. There are ony two of us and the table is only 24" square.

I should mention that the wobble in my table is coming from the base itself. The support tube fits snugly, but when I move the table, I can clearly see the base deforming and allowing the table to move.
-2000 Chevy K3500 CC DRW 7.4L, Auto; 2000 Arctic Fox 1150 WB; 1999 Bayliner Capri 1800LS Outboard
-Air Lift bags, Torklift tie-downs, Superhitch w/48", Rancho RS9000X, K&N FIPK, MagnaFlow exhaust.

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
Camp, Forrest, Camp! wrote:
I'm thinking of doing away with the pedestal completely.

And use what? If you attach table to the wall, it is too small to use regular 2 legs on the other end, the legs will get in the way, especially with those ugly benches. Without benches, using folding chairs, 2 legs might work in some rigs. But not in all rigs. When one of the benches is up against the wall, chair on that side won't work.

Camp__Forrest__
Explorer
Explorer
I'm thinking of doing away with the pedestal completely.
-2000 Chevy K3500 CC DRW 7.4L, Auto; 2000 Arctic Fox 1150 WB; 1999 Bayliner Capri 1800LS Outboard
-Air Lift bags, Torklift tie-downs, Superhitch w/48", Rancho RS9000X, K&N FIPK, MagnaFlow exhaust.

therink
Explorer
Explorer
Camp, Forrest, Camp! wrote:
therink wrote:
I just bought the hardware today to mount the table to the wall. I will post pics when done.
Steve
I'd like to know if you have this done. I just had to replace the floor piece on my camper and now the table wobbles like crazy! I'm going to have to do something about it.


I haven't done it yet. I actually took the legs into my garage and clamped the bottoms with the bench vise (very slightly) to take them a bit out of round. The legs fit tight enough now that the wobbling is still there but not so bad. It also helps if I kneel on top of the table above where the legs are and force a tighter fit into the bases. I can live with it now. Someday I may mount to the wall if I'm bored.
Steve
Steve Rinker
Rochester, NY
2013 Keystone Sydney 340FBH 5th Wheel, 12,280 lbs loaded (scale)
2015.5 GMC Sierra Denali 3500, SRW, Duramax, CC, Payload 3,700 (sticker- not scaled yet)

Take my posts for what they are, opinions based on my own experiences.

Camp__Forrest__
Explorer
Explorer
therink wrote:
I just bought the hardware today to mount the table to the wall. I will post pics when done.
Steve
I'd like to know if you have this done. I just had to replace the floor piece on my camper and now the table wobbles like crazy! I'm going to have to do something about it.
-2000 Chevy K3500 CC DRW 7.4L, Auto; 2000 Arctic Fox 1150 WB; 1999 Bayliner Capri 1800LS Outboard
-Air Lift bags, Torklift tie-downs, Superhitch w/48", Rancho RS9000X, K&N FIPK, MagnaFlow exhaust.

camperpaul
Explorer
Explorer
gmc6000 wrote:
camperpaul wrote:
gmc6000 wrote:
Use a rubber mallet and pound them in hard. I had the same issue with my table. After driving the legs into the base and the table, they got very tight. They can still be removed, it just takes a little more wiggling.

By just wiggling the table while exerting downward pressure you will achieve the same result.

The sockets for the support tubes are tapered and the tubes are not.

Adding screws, brackets, etc. is like putting tape over a loose screw instead of just tightening it.


On the older support tubes and bases, I agree. Something has changed with the new bases and tubes. The tubes and bases are tapered, but they are not a match fit.

In that case, smack the tubes with a 2X4 to knock them slightly out of round.

You don't want a perfect fit or a loose fit; you want an "interference fit".
Paul
Extra Class Ham Radio operator - K9ERG (since 1956)
Retired Electronics Engineer and Antenna Designer
Was a campground host at IBSP (2006-2010) - now retired.
Single - Full-timer
2005 Four Winds 29Q
2011 2500HD 6.0L GMC Denali (Gasser)

gmc6000
Explorer
Explorer
camperpaul wrote:
gmc6000 wrote:
Use a rubber mallet and pound them in hard. I had the same issue with my table. After driving the legs into the base and the table, they got very tight. They can still be removed, it just takes a little more wiggling.

By just wiggling the table while exerting downward pressure you will achieve the same result.

The sockets for the support tubes are tapered and the tubes are not.

Adding screws, brackets, etc. is like putting tape over a loose screw instead of just tightening it.


On the older support tubes and bases, I agree. Something has changed with the new bases and tubes. The tubes and bases are tapered, but they are not a match fit.
2017 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie MegaCab 6.7 Aisin 4:10
2013 KZ Inferno 3710T

camperpaul
Explorer
Explorer
gmc6000 wrote:
Use a rubber mallet and pound them in hard. I had the same issue with my table. After driving the legs into the base and the table, they got very tight. They can still be removed, it just takes a little more wiggling.

By just wiggling the table while exerting downward pressure you will achieve the same result.

The sockets for the support tubes are tapered and the tubes are not.

Adding screws, brackets, etc. is like putting tape over a loose screw instead of just tightening it.
Paul
Extra Class Ham Radio operator - K9ERG (since 1956)
Retired Electronics Engineer and Antenna Designer
Was a campground host at IBSP (2006-2010) - now retired.
Single - Full-timer
2005 Four Winds 29Q
2011 2500HD 6.0L GMC Denali (Gasser)

gmc6000
Explorer
Explorer
Use a rubber mallet and pound them in hard. I had the same issue with my table. After driving the legs into the base and the table, they got very tight. They can still be removed, it just takes a little more wiggling.
2017 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie MegaCab 6.7 Aisin 4:10
2013 KZ Inferno 3710T

motorcycle_jack
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'm sure if you look here you will find something you can use: Sierra Pacific
John
"Motorcycle Jack"
Life time Good Sam Member
Blog: My RV
5th Wheel Blog

Full timing isn't "always camping". It's a different life style living in an RV.

MegaJohn
Explorer
Explorer
I've seen a post on here some time ago where someone removed the floor mounts and filled the voids with an epoxy or something. He claimed the table was much more solid after this mod. I don't have the link, but with some searching, maybe you can find it... or someone remembers and can provide a link to the discussion.

Happy Camping!
John.
Stock 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 MegaCab, 5.9L Cummins, Automatic, 2WD, Dually
- 30' 2006 Pilgrim Interntional travel trailer, dry weight ~7k pounds, GVWR ~9k pounds
- Husky weight distributing hitch, friction anti-sway control, electronic brake controller