Entry door glass sealant/adhesive

[DAS26miles]

I am looking to change my entry door window from frosted to Lexan or tempered glas
s. When I removed the inner frame, I could see that they used some white caulk for both glass to the frame and frame to the door. Do you think it's Dicor? Some say to use butyl tape, not sure about using that for the glass if I go that route as pressure making it stick may break the glass. It's only 1/8" thick. Lexan would be ok.

[path1]

I wasn't sure what mine was held in with. My door is from Lippert components and they used silicone. (Maybe that's why it leaked):)

Called RV glass place that did work on my cab window in class C. Asked them what to use. Here is what they stressed.

Clean out all old silicone, and that can take a long time because you have to get ALL old silicone. Worst part of the job. New silicone must be what is called "100% silicone". They like what Winnebago has been using for years. Nuco or Nu-flex 331

http://www.amazon.com/Nuco-331-Silicone-Nozzle-Odorless/dp/B00OJJK2IS

And I paid $17.00 for a tube. Cheaper on-line than buying in person at RV place.

After getting the groove clean as possible, wipe with alcohol pad and look into groove and you'll probably find more little tiny bits of old silicone. If so, keep digging it out until you don't see any left over old silicone at all. Again worst part of job but all old silicone must be gone. Then put new silicone and let dry couple days if possible. Then before putting window back in, to make sure there are no leaks. Lay flat outside up on picnic table or something and fill with water up to the plastic ring. Water should not run or drip out. If it does you have a leak and best to start over.

Took me about 2 hours to get out all old silicone. To fit the weird size of the groove, I used a drill bit as a scrapper along with popsicle sticks.

I think if I had to fix it again...Dicor wouldn't be out of the question. But would still be stuck removing silicone, which is the biggest hassle of the job.

[blawless]

For the Lexan regular silicon works very well. If you were deciding to replace the window with tinted glass, being heavier and non flexible, butyl tape cut to fit the channel would be better as its not as secure and allows the glass to flex within the frame. The frame has a channel as well for adhering to the door, I used a 1/4 " butyl tape cut to fit the channel portion that adheres to the door. Don't try to seal the entire frame, just the channel as it was designed. The frame will fit nice and flush and also be water-proof.

[DAS26miles]

Blawless, so you used just regular off the shelve Silicon sealant/adhesive for the glass. What thickness of butyl tape. The tape I have seems too thick for that plastic frame.

[12thgenusa]

I replaced my door window with this kit. Link
It came with a double sided tape (not caulk) that is used between the window and the frame and between the frame and door. Looks just like the stuff that was used originally. You might be able to buy a roll from them.

[blawless]

I replaced mine last year with tinted Lexan. Use silicone to glue the lexan to the frame ( if your frame is black like mine use black colored silicone, if white use white or clear.) Set the frame flat and line the channel with silicone then press the lexan gently onto the frame. The key is to leave it alone and let it dry overnight. Then use butyl tape to seal the frame to the door. Mine is still nice and tight, no leaks and it looks great. The lexan matches the tint on the other windows.