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I want to install a 12V digital volt meter

ewarnerusa
Nomad
Nomad
I wanted to install a digital LCD volt meter with LED backlight display that I bought off amazon. I'm familiar and comfortable with 12V electrical and I have decided to just tie into a 12V connection from behind the existing control center (where the tank/battery gauges are, water pump switch, water heater switch, etc.). I'm going to mount the volt meter above the control center. While the LED backlight would draw very little juice, I figured I'd want a way to switch it off to avoid any unnecessary parasitic loads. My plan is to wire up a switch that will turn the volt meter display on and off. I snooped around with my multimeter and there are many different wires carrying the 12V signal to choose from. My plan was to pick a favorite and tie the switch into it, then hook the meter to the switch.
Anyone have any comments or suggestions for my idea? Thanks.
Aspen Trail 2710BH | 470 watts of solar | 2x 6V GC batteries | 100% LED lighting | 1500W PSW inverter | MicroAir on air con | Yamaha 2400 gen
46 REPLIES 46

Jack_Kay
Explorer
Explorer
I installed a 12v meter under our dinnet and tied it into the power plug. I didn't have a need for a switch as I rarely dry camp.

Jack & Kay
2015 Allegro 32CA
2014 Honda CR-V
FMCA #F341229

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
64thunderbolt wrote:
tenbear wrote:
audio1der wrote:
Momentary switch is what I would do as well. Then you have draw only when you want to check the voltage and minimize your parasitic draw.
Alternatively, a battery disconnect switch may not be a bad idea for when in storage or between trips.


I originally had a momentary switch on my voltmeter but I replaced it. I didn't like holding the switch on when I wanted to watch the meter.

The parasitic drain of the meter is very low. If you don't want to watch the meter, just turn it off.


I don't need to monitor it more than 2 times a day so why look at it?

Whatever fits your needs.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

64thunderbolt
Explorer II
Explorer II
tenbear wrote:
audio1der wrote:
Momentary switch is what I would do as well. Then you have draw only when you want to check the voltage and minimize your parasitic draw.
Alternatively, a battery disconnect switch may not be a bad idea for when in storage or between trips.


I originally had a momentary switch on my voltmeter but I replaced it. I didn't like holding the switch on when I wanted to watch the meter.

The parasitic drain of the meter is very low. If you don't want to watch the meter, just turn it off.




I don't need to monitor it more than 2 times a day so why look at it?
Glen
04 Tail gator XT 34' 5th wheel garage model
200w solar 2 GC2's 800w inv
Truma tankless WH
99 F350 CC DRW 7.3 ais intake, adrenaline hpop, JW valve body,
cooling mist water inj, DP tunes, 4" exh sys
trucool trans cooler added
2011 RZR 900xp

crcr
Explorer
Explorer
ewarnerusa wrote:
Looks good crcr. What is a Radio Shack hobby box? I may walk over to RS at lunch and check that out if it means fewer/smaller holes cut into my TT interior paneling.


I don't recall if that was what the label on the plastic work box said, but that is what the Radio Shack clerk called it. They had 2 or 3 sizes. It's a nifty plastic box with removable top, held by 4 screws. Using a dremel tool, I cut out the correct size square hole in the box cover to mount my LED volt meter from Amazon into it. Then drilled a tiny hole in the back of the box to bring the pos and neg leads in to connect to the volt meter. Then just a couple of tiny screws inside the box to mount it to the underside of the cabinet.

Whenever I sell the trailer, I'll probably remove it and install in the replacement trailer. That would leave no visible trace it had been there.

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
With 2 banks I used a SPDT center off switch so I could watch either bank or not.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

ewarnerusa
Nomad
Nomad
Looks good crcr. What is a Radio Shack hobby box? I may walk over to RS at lunch and check that out if it means fewer/smaller holes cut into my TT interior paneling.
Aspen Trail 2710BH | 470 watts of solar | 2x 6V GC batteries | 100% LED lighting | 1500W PSW inverter | MicroAir on air con | Yamaha 2400 gen

crcr
Explorer
Explorer


My Amazon 12V meter mounted in a Radio Shack hobby box and mounted in the kitchen next to the stove hood, where I tapped a constant hot plus ground. Read out is identical to the hundredth as the reading on the batteries with a hand held meter, 28' away.

I did not switch mine, since the draw is so small, and it is not at all bright enough to be a distraction at night.

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
audio1der wrote:
Momentary switch is what I would do as well. Then you have draw only when you want to check the voltage and minimize your parasitic draw.
Alternatively, a battery disconnect switch may not be a bad idea for when in storage or between trips.


I originally had a momentary switch on my voltmeter but I replaced it. I didn't like holding the switch on when I wanted to watch the meter.

The parasitic drain of the meter is very low. If you don't want to watch the meter, just turn it off.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

audio1der
Explorer
Explorer
Momentary switch is what I would do as well. Then you have draw only when you want to check the voltage and minimize your parasitic draw.
Alternatively, a battery disconnect switch may not be a bad idea for when in storage or between trips.

64thunderbolt
Explorer II
Explorer II
had a friend cut the stainless faceplate and the momentay switch and Vmeter frem ebay. Total cost was less than $12.



Glen
04 Tail gator XT 34' 5th wheel garage model
200w solar 2 GC2's 800w inv
Truma tankless WH
99 F350 CC DRW 7.3 ais intake, adrenaline hpop, JW valve body,
cooling mist water inj, DP tunes, 4" exh sys
trucool trans cooler added
2011 RZR 900xp

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
When I installed a voltmeter I used a SPDT switch to switch the meter to read either the battery voltage or the converter voltage. The switch has a center off position.

For the converter voltage I chose to tap into the wire to the propane detector. It draws a constant low current and is on a fuse with nothing else. For the battery voltage I went directly to the battery.

There is definitely a difference between the two, especially when the converter is in boost mode and the battery is low.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
Hey Ed - I made up a three digital meter battery bank monitor panel for my off-road popup setup and believe me when I say I had a very bright 'night' light... Lit up the whole area... I used one of those three gang specialty switch assy (Lowes) and routed my wiring to the main battery switch using PVC flexible conduit...


I had to install a ON-OFF small toggle switch for each panel...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

crcr
Explorer
Explorer
DrewE wrote:
What you suggest would generally work fine and be simple enough. You would be measuring the voltage at your control center, which may not be exactly the voltage at the battery...


To OP, I installed a volt meter I bought off Amazon, in the very rear of my 28 1/2' TT, 30 feet from my two batteries. I tapped a small always hot wire inside the hood of the stove and mounted the volt meter in the kitchen. I then tested the voltage at the batteries with a handheld volt meter, and I got the exact same reading, to two decimal points, as my meter in the rear of the coach was displaying! Accurate to the hundreth is close enough for me!

So personally, I would not worry at all about where you pick up 12V in your RV for the meter. My volt meter is on 24/7, not switched, but it's an LED, so I don't worry about the very minor parasitic draw.

ewarnerusa
Nomad
Nomad
I recognize that I'd be measuring the voltage at the control center versus actual voltage across the battery posts. But I'm ok with that discrepancy.

The amazon seller says the LED backlight draws 9 milliamps. That is practically nothing. I'll ponder the switch.... It is always something I can add later.

Thanks for the input so for everyone.
Aspen Trail 2710BH | 470 watts of solar | 2x 6V GC batteries | 100% LED lighting | 1500W PSW inverter | MicroAir on air con | Yamaha 2400 gen

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
I would leave the backlight on. Probably just a couple milliamps and far less than even the propane detector. Consider mounting out of the way so it does not stare at you when watching tv or trying to sleep etc. Can always add a momentary button switch later.