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Inverter, Solar, and Other Power Recommendations

andrewh
Explorer
Explorer
Hello All,

This is my first post on this site, so I hope I'm in the right area.

Last February, I purchased my first camper/RV, a 2015 Thor Ace 29.2, and am now in love with boondocking and traveling the Southwest US. Since I'm quite new to this, any and all recommendations and suggestions are appreciated.

When I first purchased the RV, I swapped out the factory installed coach batteries for a set of 2 12V 100AH batteries running in parallel, since the old batteries didn't seem to be maintained by the previous owner. We do not have an inverter, but I'd be interested in installing one to use for charging laptops, cell phones, and occasionally watching TV. What size inverter would you recommend for the battery setup and for the use that I am looking for? I also wouldn't be opposed to swapping out the batteries for a set of 4 6V if that would seem to make more sense for our use/need. I'm not the most knowledgeable when it comes to electrical installations, but follow directions very well. Is an inverter installation pretty straight forward and can someone with little electrical experience do this on their own?

I'd also be interested in using solar power for charging the batteries. My main concern would be installing panels on the roof and causing potential leaks, wind resistance, etc. Since we tend to boondock in an area for about a week at time, as long as our water/tanks last, I wouldn't mind having portable solar panels that I attach directly to the battery to charge. Would you recommend this type of setup, or should I really look into a roof installation? Considering the mentioned uses and battery setup, how many panels and what wattage would be recommended?

Thanks for taking the time to read this and any replies will be greatly appreciated.
23 REPLIES 23

westend
Explorer
Explorer
The first step is to total the amount of power you wish to use on a daily basis. The amount of battery storage and solar charging revolves around your use.

For inverted 120V power, you can multiply the device's rated amperage by "10", to see what the 12V draw would be.

Portable panels are nice but it depends on how much you want to fuss with them. If you leave your RV for day excursions, will you leave the panel outside? Are you willing to move it so it faces the Sun? How much trouble will it be to move in and out when setting up camp?

Mounting onto the roof is not an issue, as is wind drag. Some folks use VHB tape to mount the panel brackets--no screws needed but that only adheres to the roof surface, not a good thing with an EPDM roof. Screws with sealant is the more common mounting scheme and nearly all report sturdy mounting with no leaks.

My solar system is similar to lawrosa's---one big panel , MPPT controller, and a 1000W inverter. I have 300 AH of battery storage. I run a 120V fridge and 120V entertainment devices, along with the other 12V items.

If you don't have a battery disconnect switch between your new batteries and the parasitic loads of your RV, I'd suggest to install one. The circuit boards, alarms, and radio memory will combine to draw down your batteries quickly.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
andrewh wrote:

When I first purchased the RV, I swapped out the factory installed coach batteries for a set of 2 12V 100AH batteries running in parallel, ...

We do not have an inverter, but I'd be interested in installing one to use for charging laptops, cell phones, and occasionally watching TV.

I also wouldn't be opposed to swapping out the batteries for a set of 4 6V if that would seem to make more sense for our use/need.

First, run what you can directly off of 12V DC. Inverting to 120V AC and the converting back to 12V DC is very inefficient.

USB cigarette lighter chargers are cheap on eBay. You can also buy cigarette lighter sockets. Yes, you may have to pull some wire. Make sure any new 12V DC circuits are properly fused. Shop for a 12V DC laptop charger.

Unless you plan on running addition 120V AC appliances (CPAP, residential refrigerator, etc) a 300-500 watt PURE SINE WAVE inverter is all that you will need. These are small so you might not want to permanent mount it (you could use it in the car while driving), but make sure you have adequately sized wiring (12 minimum, 10 better) and the wired is fused near the battery. The simplest connection from the inverter to your RV is to run an extension cord from the inverter to your normal shore power inlet. Make sure to TURN OFF the converter/charger and you are done !

As for batteries, a pair of 6V golf cart batteries would likely be adequate, especially with some solar.

treeofliberty
Explorer
Explorer
Its a tough choice on the solar panel. Portable takes up valuable storage space, and you have to spend a little time setting it up and putting it away. However, you have the flexibility to move it around to keep it in the sun. Roof mounted panels are always out and always charging, if they are in the sun. So your batteries are being topped of while your rig is stored, on the road, etc. We needed more watts for our 450 AH battery bank, so ours are roof mounted. That's great, unless we park in the shade, but we also have a 2000w generator as backup. There are lots of installation threads on this site, which you can use for inspiration.
Tim

2013 F-350 6.7L Diesel, Crew Cab, Shortbed, Andersen Ultimate 2
2017 Grand Design Reflection 29RS, 540 watts of solar, Magnum MS2812 inverter, Bogart Engineering TM-2025 and SC-2030, weBoost 4G-M cell booster

lawrosa
Explorer
Explorer
Heres what I did.

280 watt panel 30 plus volts
MPPT controller
1100 watt invertor.
I plug the camper to inverter.

Consult an electrician as all inverters are not the same in regards to nuetral bonding...

Solar install
Mike L ... N.J.

2006 Silverado ext cab long bed. 3:42 rear. LM7 5.3 motor. 300 hp 350 ft lbs torgue @ 4000 rpms
2018 coachmen Catalina sbx 261bh

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
terry thiessen wrote:
We have one 135 WATT panel that keeps our two 6volt golf cart batteries charged. The panel,is on a 35 foot cabel so we park in the shade and move the panel,into the sun. We only power the electronics for the refrig., led lights and water pump. We also power two cpap machines. As long as we have sun the panel is all,we,use to keep batteries charged.


watt not amp

135amps would be 1890watts of power
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

clarkster
Explorer
Explorer
A "portable" style suitcase solar panel negates the need for punching holes into the roof and the running of cables down into the interior.

A 600W inverter will supply sufficient power to run what you want it to run.
The number one concern is you MUST have a method to replace the amps to the batteries that the inverter/devices consume.
That is either a fuel powered generator or a solar setup.

I can fully recommend a Go-Power brand solar suitcase with 2 60 watt panels joined together for 120 watts.

Unfold it, lay out the panels, plug it in......done for the remainder of your trip......save moving it to get the sun angle a couple of times a day.
Plus.....with the include cable, you can seek out the sun, whereas on the roof you have no such option.

As dry camping is my thing without a source for shore power, solar is the way to go.....after all, when the initial costs are done and swallowed, it's FREE power.
2006 Dodge 2500 4x4 Laramie crew CTD
2017 Jayco Flight SLX Baja package

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
If you have a 12v connector it works great filled with a USB adapter.

I have and recommend a 300 watt GoPower sine wave inverter wired to the one or two strings of general use outlets with a transfer switch. Yes very doable.

Solar for in use I recommend about 100 watts per battery. Portable is fine to start. You may get bored with the set up etc and just mount some on the roof after a few trips. Your call. Already lots of holes in the roof so that is not a big deal.

> Members Solar Installations With Pics

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
"I wouldn't mind having portable solar panels that I attach directly to the battery to charge."

Panels send power to the charge controller not directly to the batteries. You want to stay in camp to watch over your portable panels, fine. Mounted on the roof you can go as you please. Leaks from solar panels? Unlikely if properly installed. Portable panels cost more than roof panels. My wind resistance, as in reduced MPG, is zero and they are right up front on the TT.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

terry_thiessen
Explorer
Explorer
We have one 135 amp panel that keeps our two 6volt golf cart batteries charged. The panel,is on a 35 foot cabel so we park in the shade and move the panel,into the sun. We only power the electronics for the refrig., led lights and water pump. We also power two cpap machines. As long as we have sun the panel is all,we,use to keep batteries charged.