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Real tile backsplash?

whit
Explorer
Explorer
Hi all. My class A has mirrors behind the kitchen sink and stovetop. It is attached to the wall with double sided tape, so it is easily removable. I am thinking about replacing it with smart tiles, the self stick kind. But I was wondering if anyone has used real mosaic tiles mastic'ed to the wall? I would use flexible caulking in the corner and where it meets the counter. The grout joints would be only on the flat areas and very small. I just don't know if they would eventually fail bouncing down the road?

Thanks Mike
Mike
7 REPLIES 7

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
West you are right, mixing up the names. Some are often called thinset mortar. The main thing I consider with my rv is using a flex product rather then the cement type products.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Grout is not the name of the material used to set tile. Grout is the admixture used between tiles to fill joints. If you're using grout to set tile, you are using the wrong material.

Thinset or mastic is the material used to set tiles. It comes in different formulas and different types, i.e. powder to mix or premixed. I have good results with polymer modified thinset although mastic may be a better choice for a novice. Unsanded grout is used for small joints between tiles compared to sanded grouts used for floors. Again, it comes in different formulas and types. I have little worries about conventional polymer modified grout cracking or chipping out of joints. Once the tiles are set, there is going to be no movement between tiles. Wherever a moving structure abuts a tile installation, a crack can develop. This is usually handled by covering that joint with a caulk. Silicone seems to be the caulk of choice for this.

There is a vendor out there that hawks a flexible thinset and grout product for RV's. His website comes up towards the top in internet searches. Don't be misled by his hyperbole. Conventional tile installation products work well, especially for installing small expanses like backsplashes.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
I found it.
This is what I have used and they do call it non sanded but it's not like the cement type stuff at all.
I didnt let it dry and haze over like traditional type. Smear it in and wipe off tiles.
One example

I used 3/4 plywood and sealed it so the wood wasn't porous. This is 2x2 tile iirc. I used flexible adhesive grout to stick them and then filled all the joints with the tube product that I linked to.



Back splash too. All the walls were made of cheap luan 1/4" with 2 or 3 coats of rot doctor 2 part epoxy wood sealer so the wood finish was sort of matte/glossy and sealed.

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
whit wrote:
Thanks all,

I would like to use the small glass tiles. I was going to use mastic, the same as I did in my home kitchen when doing the backsplash there. Unless there is a more flexable tile adhesive? Finally using a matching caulk for the one corner and where it meets the corian counter. My main concern is the unsanded grout I will have to use to fill the small joints between the glass tiles. Will the grout eventually start to crack and fall out?


You dont have to use the conventional hard grout. There are various colors of flexible grout available. I say flex because when they dry they are sort of rubber like and peel or fall apart more like dry silcone, not crumble like cement.

If I do my back splash I will use the premixed flex grout to stick the tiles to the wall. I will then use the flexible colored grout to fill the gaps and where the tile meets the counter top and corners. I would not use what I consider to be the traditional cement type hard setting products.

I tried to find links to the product but it was difficult on the Home Depot site. Go there and you will see some of the flex stuff comes in various colors and it's in a caulking gun tube. You would be applying this product like any other that you use a caulking gun. It needs to be wiped off the surface before it dries.

There are some similar flex colored qrout products that come in one qt tubs just like the flex adhesive grout does.

whit
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks all,

I would like to use the small glass tiles. I was going to use mastic, the same as I did in my home kitchen when doing the backsplash there. Unless there is a more flexable tile adhesive? Finally using a matching caulk for the one corner and where it meets the corian counter. My main concern is the unsanded grout I will have to use to fill the small joints between the glass tiles. Will the grout eventually start to crack and fall out?
Mike

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, you can use vitreous tile in RV's. I've used various porcelain and ceramic tile in a few RV's. My old Starcraft has a tiled area around the heater. I used 1/2" quarry tile and all is still good after four years. You can look at my tiling techniques in the restoration thread in my signature line, The Cowboy/Hilton

Modified thinset and modified grout will hold up well on wall surfaces.

Vitreous tile can be a good choice as the plastic tiles are limited in color and style choices. I know a few high-end MH mfgs use mostly glass tile for backsplashes in the galley and bath areas. Glass is shiny and shiny sells.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
I rebuilt or basically built a small TT and used 2x2 tile for the floor and backsplash. I used the flexible premixed grout and a colored silicone type grout for the joints. It was fine for 5 years that I used it and it sat through temp extremes. I would use the flexible grout/adhesive and a silicone in the joints not the traditional sanded non sanded grout. I cant see how a rigid cement type product could hold up. The joint silicone comes in many colors at box stores.

I would try sticking a tile and see how aggressively it holds. If it's questionable I'd then use something like goop to glue them on. Follow with a silicone grout. I stripped my carpet, primed the plywood and used peel and stick tiles. In the most difficult areas around the steps etc I did have a little trouble with some of them not sticking well so I used goop on them and had no more trouble.

If the back splash base material goes behind a cabinet into the cupboard area you may be able to test in an inconspicuous place before doing anything.

I think some of the silicone will work but you would want the type that's tough not easy to peel off. it may be labeled as adhesive silicone. Another thing that I have used is proflex and it's really strong.