Replaced roof molding screws

[jspringator]

I replaced all the screws in the molding holding down the rubber roof with stainless steel screws dipped in 3M5200. That is a lot of screws!



Do I need to do anything else? Run a bead of sealant at the top of the molding? Cover the entire molding with Eternabond? I can't see either one of these would be an improvement on the crews heavily dipped in 3M5200

About 3/4 of my screws had rusted threads. On mine, a clog in the gutters caused water to rise into the screw area. I can't see that the plastic screw cover does anything but make the moisture hang around longer. My rig just turned 10. I wish I had done this 9 years ago.

[LarryJM]

jspringator wrote:
Larry, would RainKap be helpful for my application?

http://www.rvaccessorypart.com/page/page/3352092.htm


It would bypass the Jayco Eagle gutter system that has a gutter and a small tube with a slit in it underneath the gutter. I guess the small tube is to collect water that goes over the gutter. My awning is underneath the molding, but I'm not sure there is enough space to mount the RainKap. I guess I could cut it down.

This would address the issue presented by Gjac. I do'k know of any other way to seal the molding unless I covered the entire thing in Eternabond.

It probably won't fit over the awning, but you don't really need it there. Take a look at the "Eternabond Install" link in my signature and read all the captions for how I used the Eternabond to seal things like that top trim piece along the roof, screws, and about anything else you can think of on a trailer that needs sealing.

Larry

[jspringator]

Larry, would RainKap be helpful for my application?

http://www.rvaccessorypart.com/page/page/3352092.htm


It would bypass the Jayco Eagle gutter system that has a gutter and a small tube with a slit in it underneath the gutter. I guess the small tube is to collect water that goes over the gutter. My awning is underneath the molding, but I'm not sure there is enough space to mount the RainKap. I guess I could cut it down.

This would address the issue presented by Gjac. I do'k know of any other way to seal the molding unless I covered the entire thing in Eternabond.

[Gjac]

I would run a bead of sealant along the top of the molding. I had a leak at the intersection of my roof line and front cap, I found a leak 30 ft away in the rear where water leaked into the molding and ran to the front. I am sure my screws are probably rusty also.

[jspringator]

Looks like I won't be replacing the roof membrane! I was re-gluing some trim pieces that fell off and had the 5200 handy. I have 3 tubes of 4200 (or 4000UV) in the freezer, but I like the idea of 5200, even though I know I won't be able to take the screws out.

I recently bought a Harbor Freight 18 volt drill. If I hadn't had that I wouldn't have been able to do the job. I found a big piece of cardboard, and stuck each screw into the end of the sealant tube. I put 10 screws at a time on the cardboard and climbed on the roof. I took 10 out and put 10 back at a time. I left the drill on the roof. Next time, I moved the ladder and started over. It went pretty quick like that.

[Almot]

jspringator wrote:
I replaced all the screws in the molding holding down the rubber roof with stainless steel screws dipped in 3M5200.

Well, most of them were rusty so you were right to replace them with SS. Some rigs last longer, depends on climate.

3M5200 is overkill for sure. You could've used 3M4200. Or even a $3 exterior polyurethane sealant from Home Depot. 3M4200 is a polyurethane sealant as well. They call 4200 "fast cure", but from my experience it dries at least as long as an exterior urethane caulk, though, being less dense, it flows easier. So it can leak off a vertical surface if you put too much. But you only need to dip the stem into it. Roof sealant commonly used in RV like Dicor or Geocel would also do, if you happen to have a tub laying around.

[Rvpapa]

That vinyl strip does nothing to keep water out. In fact it holds the water in against the screw heads. Did all mine a few years back, but used sealing washers, the kind with rubber? bonded to a stainless washer. And yes it does take a LOT of screws! Many praises to DeWalt cordless. :B
Art.

[jspringator]

The vinyl trim piece on mine just hides the screws from view. It doesn't seal anything. It just press fits into the molding. I almost took it off.

[powderman426]

Hmmm . Yours must be different from the way mine is made. On mine the screws are near the top of the strip and behind a vinyl trim that keeps water out so it really wouldn't hurt anything if the drip rail were to have debris in it as all that would happen is the water would overflow the edge and run down the side of the unit instead of going to whatever end was lowest. That sounds like a bad design, but it is what it is.:h

[jspringator]

Rain water has to go over this trim piece (and the screws) to get into the gutter. The screws weren't watertight; hence the leak.

[powderman426]

jspringator wrote:
It would if it was leaking around the screw. I also need to make sure the gutters aren't clogged. I think that is what caused the leaks.

Why would it be leaking around the screws. the roofing comes over the edge and behind the trim. The back of the trim has butyl rubber strip to keep water from coming in. therefore if the screws are rusty, the roof membrane had been compromised, the butyl seal is not doing the job, or both. Therefore if the roofing is ok and the butyl rubber is doing its job, the screws will be like new. You really need to find out how the water is getting in and fix it. New screws doesnt fix the problem in my opinion.

BTW I am trying to be helpful and not confrontational.:C

[jspringator]

It would if it was leaking around the screw. I also need to make sure the gutters aren't clogged. I think that is what caused the leaks.

[powderman426]

My trailer is 18 years old and the only screws that were Rusty was where it had been leaking. The other ninety percent were like new. If you found Rusty screws my guess would be that it has been leaking and new screws won't fix that. JMO

[Bumpyroad]

leave the screws alone. if it ain't broke, etc., etc. etc. if removal is ever needed, drill them out. but yes, 5200 is probably overkill. 🙂
bumpy

[LarryJM]

jspringator wrote:
I replaced all the screws in the molding holding down the rubber roof with stainless steel screws dipped in 3M5200. That is a lot of screws!



Do I need to do anything else? Run a bead of sealant at the top of the molding? Cover the entire molding with Eternabond? I can't see either one of these would be an improvement on the crews heavily dipped in 3M5200

About 3/4 of my screws had rusted threads. On mine, a clog in the gutters caused water to rise into the screw area. I can't see that the plastic screw cover does anything but make the moisture hang around longer. My rig just turned 10. I wish I had done this 9 years ago.

I'm not sure I would have used the 3M5200 since that is the strongest and most permanent marine adhesive/caulk made by 3M and it's bond is never meant to be broken w/o significant damage to the surfaces. I would be concerned if I had to ever remove a screw. You might wait like a month and try and remove one and see if it's even possible.

I like to use the Eternabond adhesive from their double stick tape on the threads and then put a small patch of Eternabond over the screw head on non S/S screws to seal the entire threads from moisture. In your case with using S/S screws there is little extra protection added with adding the Eternabond over just the screw heads.

If others are thinking of using a 3M adhesive/sealant like you did I would recommend looking at the 4000 series which is less strong and is designed to be removed if necessary. You really don't need the adhesive strength in this application anyway.

Larry