6 point leveling system - Questions?

[DutchmenSport]

Taking delivery of our new Montana 375FL tomorrow, (Tuesday). 5er is 41 feet long.

Our Outback TT is 35.5 feet long. Because of the length, even a slight slope can make a big difference between the ground clearance between the front and the rear when parked in some campsites.

Here's a photo of a somewhat typical campsite from an Indiana State Park. The tongue of the trailer was down to the ground and the rear was up this high off the ground. (By the way, this was Brookville State Recreation Area near Liberty, Indiana).



Because of the exagerated length of our Outback, it was always necessary for me to carry lots of extra lumber to use under the stablizer jacks or under the tongue, and even the tires (side to side leveling), because at Indiana State Parks you just never know how unlevel a site will be.

Now, if I were to park the new Montana on the exact same site as this photo above and utilized the 6 point self-leveling feature, how far would those jacks extend? Would the greatest distance (front or back) have enough jack extension to reach the ground? Or... for those who have the self-leveling systems, do I still need to carry along a boat load of lumber to put under everything so the distance is not so great?

Because I'm switching from a TT to a 5er, I've removed the shell from my pick up truck, and actually gave it to some else. So, those construction shelves and side panels which held all that lumber won't be available any more. If I carry lumber now, it will have to just be in the bed of the truck.

So, I'm just trying to figure some of these things out. I'm sure, at the walk-through tomorrow, the service tech will explain it, but it's eating away at me right now, wondering ... because ... I've never been down this road before.

How do you with electric or hydraulic 6 point leveling systems deal with unlevel campsites, where the distance in height from the ground to the front or from the ground to the back of the camper may be as much as 3 feet different?

[Edd505]

Toolguy5 wrote:
I carry 4 packs of Lego blocks. As well as 6 hard rubber base pads. Depending on how level the ground is depends on how many blocks go under each leg. I only use the blocks on 4 rear legs and use the extension on front landing gear.

Site in Georgetown Kentucky front of 5er was only about 4 inches off the ground where the rear was over 3 feet. My 5er is 42 feet long.

I try and make sure I do not run stroke all the way out on leveling system.

Exactly! I use 3 set but if I ever needed more I would buy another pack.

[B_O__Plenty]

Never had a problem with my 6 point Level Up that required blocks. The rear most legs are right behind the tires.

B.O.

[dapperdan]

Your rear levelers will be right behind the rear axel, I would suggest you carry some kind of blocking in case you run into unlevel sites. I made up some blocks out of plywood and 2 X material. Works great when we need them.

Dan

[Merrykalia]

Our Sandpiper is 42'11" long and we camphost a couple months each summer. Our favorite campground, the back drops off just like the picture shown. We have the 6-point levelling and the back ones are just behind the tires and there is about 15 ft of camper left behind it. DH added a couple of scissor jacks back there because we had quite a bit of bounce if someone was in the living area and we were in the bedroom. The scissor jacks that are on the back corners are about 5 feet off the ground at our camphost spot. We use cinderblocks (they are left onsite) and then a couple of 6 x 6s (also left onsite) and then lower the scissor jacks. This helps tremendously.

Just a note that if your RV is more than a couple of inches out of level side to side, the automatic levelers do not want to work. You may need to drive up on some wood pieces or some LEGOS.

[Toolguy5]

I carry 4 packs of Lego blocks. As well as 6 hard rubber base pads. Depending on how level the ground is depends on how many blocks go under each leg. I only use the blocks on 4 rear legs and use the extension on front landing gear.

Site in Georgetown Kentucky front of 5er was only about 4 inches off the ground where the rear was over 3 feet. My 5er is 42 feet long.

I try and make sure I do not run stroke all the way out on leveling system.

[Super_Dave]

DutchmenSport wrote:

Or... for those who have the self-leveling systems, do I still need to carry along a boat load of lumber to put under everything so the distance is not so great?

Yes, for the picture you’ve shown, you will need spacers/blocks.

[djousma]

DutchmenSport wrote:
Taking delivery of our new Montana 375FL tomorrow, (Tuesday). 5er is 41 feet long.

Our Outback TT is 35.5 feet long. Because of the length, even a slight slope can make a big difference between the ground clearance between the front and the rear when parked in some campsites.

Here's a photo of a somewhat typical campsite from an Indiana State Park. The tongue of the trailer was down to the ground and the rear was up this high off the ground. (By the way, this was Brookville State Recreation Area near Liberty, Indiana).



Because of the exagerated length of our Outback, it was always necessary for me to carry lots of extra lumber to use under the stablizer jacks or under the tongue, and even the tires (side to side leveling), because at Indiana State Parks you just never know how unlevel a site will be.

Now, if I were to park the new Montana on the exact same site as this photo above and utilized the 6 point self-leveling feature, how far would those jacks extend? Would the greatest distance (front or back) have enough jack extension to reach the ground? Or... for those who have the self-leveling systems, do I still need to carry along a boat load of lumber to put under everything so the distance is not so great?

Because I'm switching from a TT to a 5er, I've removed the shell from my pick up truck, and actually gave it to some else. So, those construction shelves and side panels which held all that lumber won't be available any more. If I carry lumber now, it will have to just be in the bed of the truck.

So, I'm just trying to figure some of these things out. I'm sure, at the walk-through tomorrow, the service tech will explain it, but it's eating away at me right now, wondering ... because ... I've never been down this road before.

How do you with electric or hydraulic 6 point leveling systems deal with unlevel campsites, where the distance in height from the ground to the front or from the ground to the back of the camper may be as much as 3 feet different?

On your outback the scissor jacks were at the corners of the trailer. If your Montana is like most others, the jacks are probably closer together(front to back) than your old Outback. Typically, you have the front legs, the middle legs are a few feet in front of the wheels, and the back legs are a foot or two behind the rear wheels. There is a lot of overhang beyond the rear jacks.

I've only camped one place where I needed to some wood under the rear most jacks because it sloped off a bit much. I suspect that assuming the campsite can accomodate the extra length, if your outback could be leveled there, so will your Montana

[ford_truck_guy]

Me Again wrote:
Just remember that any loose items in the truck bed with blow out on the road, which includes wooden blocks.

The rear 6 point jacks on our BH3575el are not at the very rear like your picture show with your old trailer.

Chris

On Chris's note, the 6 point system will end directly after the rear wheels... I believe the stroke may be 13" - 16" ?? Just remember that the farther they are down, the more wobble you get..

I carry a few 6x6 pieces of wood that are kept in my storage compartment

[laknox]

Me Again wrote:
Just remember that any loose items in the truck bed with blow out on the road, which includes wooden blocks.

The rear 6 point jacks on our BH3575el are not at the very rear like your picture show with your old trailer.

Chris

Personally, I dedicated a milk crate in my pass-through strictly for blocks. I put 2 2x6's side by side on the ground, then another 2 on top, cross-wise, and so on. Made for a very stable base. Hell, just having the 4 pt system in this new rig is more stable than my old Komfort. Add the JTs on top, and it's pert-near like being at home. :B

Lyle

[Me_Again]

Just remember that any loose items in the truck bed with blow out on the road, which includes wooden blocks.

The rear 6 point jacks on our BH3575el are not at the very rear like your picture show with your old trailer.

Chris

[lynndiwagon]

Don't need to worry about anything under the tires. In fact, I've been to several sites where the tires were off the ground. No problem. The only thing you might need the blocks for is when the distance the "rams" need to travel for level is exceeded by the slope. In those instances I use short pieces of 4X4's under the lowest spots, but those lego things would work fine.

[Edd505]

I have the 6 point leveling and use lego blocks on all six legs. Look for low spot add legos as needed. Last site I had six under front legs and 4 under the remaining. The less leg extended the less shake walking inside.

[laknox]

I forget who it is, but one of the regulars here made some heavy plywood boxes for just this use. Pics have been posted many times. Personally, I'm carrying a couple scraps from a 12" gluelam for the rear jacks and a crate of 2x6x12 scraps =and= I look for more level sites. :B At our last boondocker I ended up moving about 80' to another place I knew would be more level.

Lyle

[DutchmenSport]

And? Do you still use lumber, or Lego Blocks under the tires to help level initially, or is doing the pre-level a non-mute concern any more with the new 5er and 6 point auto level?

It sure would be nice to eliminate all that lumber? I've tried the lego blocks in the past. I still prefer lumber over the lego. It's not a lego vs lumber argument, it's the question, do I still need to carry something for under the tires too?