Andersen Fifth Wheel Hitch Conversion

[ralphnjoann]

After reading the 12 page discussion, "So light a child can remove it from the truck," I decided "that's for me." The problem is I have a standard hitch that uses rails, not the goose neck hitch being discussed in the thread. But it turns out that Andersen makes a conversion for rails as well. It is the 3200-Ultimate 5th Wheel Connection - Rail Version. It's sold at Amazon by Tweety's. The cost is $399 with free shipping. Note: I have no financial interest in Amazon, Tweety's or Andersen.

Link

[SkiSmuggs]

MFL wrote:

SkiSmuggs wrote:
It is human nature, apparently, to dislike or fear something different instead of judging on its merits and facts. Having towed my fiver with an F150 for 3 years, I am used to that.

The max tow 150 is a capable truck. The Andersen hitch would take some weight off from the rear axle.

With that new 350 in your sig, people are going to complain, that you don't need that big truck, to haul that size FW.

Jerry

LOL! The dealer called to say it arrived today. 🙂

[ralphnjoann]

I wrote Andersen asking how/where I could hook safety chains to the truck. They replied with the following link:

Chain Hookup

This next link takes you to a pdf file which shows how to attach the other end of the chains to the kingpin coupler block. You can also see from these instructions that installing and removing the coupler block itself is a simple procedure requiring a minimum of time and tools.

Coupler Hookup

[kohai]

I think the traditional 5th wheel hitch manufacturers should follow the trend here with Andersen and Ford by coming up with much lighter weight hitches. How about an aluminum 5th wheel hitch? 🙂

(I'm going to duck now as people throw things at me.)

[ramgunner]

The Andersen Ultimate gooseneck version is rated at 24,000 lbs trailer and 4500 lbs pin weight, while the rail version is rated at 20,000 lbs and 4500 lbs.

The B&W Companion RVK3600 for the Ram trucks with the factory prep kit is rated at 25,000 trailer and 6250 lbs pin. It's not a limiting factor on those trucks.

Someone earlier brought up the issue that if you are equipped with an Andersen setup - only someone else with that setup can tow your trailer without taking time (and having the tools) to remove the Andersen adapter, and you can't tow any conventional 5th wheel trailers without the time and tools to first install an Andersen adapter.

That may or may not be a big deal, but if you have a conventional 5th wheel hitch - especially one rated for the full capabilities of your truck - you are not limited in what you can hitch up to.

I'm waiting to see Andersen release a pin box with their own interface in it, and get it picked up as an option by the trailer manufacturers. Hasn't happened yet.

[goducks10]

Me Again wrote:
I wonder if Andersen is working on a model that locks into the four bed pucks?

I see this model that pins to rails as much better than the ones that relie of the bed floor to carry the weight.

One that used the pucks would put the weight on the frame.

However in my mine I still would not like the humping of the trailer higher to hitch and unhitch! If my truck comes up 2-2.5 and then I have to go up another 3-4 inches, that is a lot of extra work for the landing gear.

Chris

x2. It takes long enough to raise mine 2.5" to unhitch. So it would take twice as long to unhitch with it. Not really that big of a deal I guess but just extra wear and tear. One unhitch with the Andersen would be one hitch and unhitch with my B&W.

[Me_Again]

I wonder if Andersen is working on a model that locks into the four bed pucks?

I see this model that pins to rails as much better than the ones that relie of the bed floor to carry the weight.

One that used the pucks would put the weight on the frame.

However in my mine I still would not like the humping of the trailer higher to hitch and unhitch! If my truck comes up 2-2.5 and then I have to go up another 3-4 inches, that is a lot of extra work for the landing gear. What is the actual distance the ball goes up into the receiver block?

Chris

[WeBeFulltimers]

Maybe Andersen needs to alter the handle where it can be locked. Shouldn't be that difficult.

I believe even I could figure out a way if I had one of the current style. I am very happy with my current B & W but would certainly consider the Andersen in the future if I needed a hitch.

[rhagfo]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

ralphnjoann wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I guarantee you it would have jumped off if I had an Andersen when I came off an off ramp as they had ground the asphalt down about 8". I had air under all 10 tires.

I like to lock my RV to my hitch. That is how I like to do it. So far no one has shown me how they lock their Andersen.

I think you're confusing locking the hitch with locking the hitch handle to prevent tampering. I have a regular fifth wheel hitch. The hitch is locked around the kingpin by rotating the handle and pushing it in; it is unlocked by rotating the handle in the opposite direction and pulling it out. While in the locked position, the handle can be secured with a padlock. This way, nobody can unlock the hitch without unlocking/destroying the padlock.

The T-handle on the Andersen also locks the hitch to the kingpin; however, it doesn't appear that the T-handle itself can be locked to prevent tampering. If the T-handle is in the locked position, your trailer is secure regardless of any 8" drops.

I posted a link above in which you expresed your concerns. As for this thread, give it a rest.

No confusion here! I lock the handle to deter childish behavior.

I will express my opinion at anytime I want on this forum as you and everyone here have the right to do. But I won't tell you or anyone ever to "give it a rest".

X2
I will agree with Cummins here, I have also hit a spot on 101 by Seaside that I felt the 5ers tires left the ground, if a ball hitch was unlocked, it would popped off.

You all pick on Cummins for his love of the B&W hitch, but there are always post on this forum with a Rah Rah for Andersen. One would almost think you get a rebate from Anderson for posting.

Personally, the fewer times i need to get in and out of the cab the better. The pin of a 5er is far stronger than a 2-5/8" ball.

[MFL]

SkiSmuggs wrote:
It is human nature, apparently, to dislike or fear something different instead of judging on its merits and facts. Having towed my fiver with an F150 for 3 years, I am used to that.

The max tow 150 is a capable truck. The Andersen hitch would take some weight off from the rear axle.

With that new 350 in your sig, people are going to complain, that you don't need that big truck, to haul that size FW.

Jerry

[SkiSmuggs]

It is human nature, apparently, to dislike or fear something different instead of judging on its merits and facts. Having towed my fiver with an F150 for 3 years, I am used to that.

[Cummins12V98]

ralphnjoann wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I guarantee you it would have jumped off if I had an Andersen when I came off an off ramp as they had ground the asphalt down about 8". I had air under all 10 tires.

I like to lock my RV to my hitch. That is how I like to do it. So far no one has shown me how they lock their Andersen.

I think you're confusing locking the hitch with locking the hitch handle to prevent tampering. I have a regular fifth wheel hitch. The hitch is locked around the kingpin by rotating the handle and pushing it in; it is unlocked by rotating the handle in the opposite direction and pulling it out. While in the locked position, the handle can be secured with a padlock. This way, nobody can unlock the hitch without unlocking/destroying the padlock.

The T-handle on the Andersen also locks the hitch to the kingpin; however, it doesn't appear that the T-handle itself can be locked to prevent tampering. If the T-handle is in the locked position, your trailer is secure regardless of any 8" drops.

I posted a link above in which you expresed your concerns. As for this thread, give it a rest.

No confusion here! I lock the handle to deter childish behavior.

I will express my opinion at anytime I want on this forum as you and everyone here have the right to do. But I won't tell you or anyone ever to "give it a rest".

[psford]

ralphnjoann wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I guarantee you it would have jumped off if I had an Andersen when I came off an off ramp as they had ground the asphalt down about 8". I had air under all 10 tires.

I like to lock my RV to my hitch. That is how I like to do it. So far no one has shown me how they lock their Andersen.

I think you're confusing locking the hitch with locking the hitch handle to prevent tampering. I have a regular fifth wheel hitch. The hitch is locked around the kingpin by rotating the handle and pushing it in; it is unlocked by rotating the handle in the opposite direction and pulling it out. While in the locked position, the handle can be secured with a padlock. This way, nobody can unlock the hitch without unlocking/destroying the padlock.

The T-handle on the Andersen also locks the hitch to the kingpin; however, it doesn't appear that the T-handle itself can be locked to prevent tampering. If the T-handle is in the locked position, your trailer is secure regardless of any 8" drops.

I posted a link above in which you expresed your concerns. As for this thread, give it a rest.

I agree after reading the thread you referenced , we have heard from the experienced users, and the weight handled etc etc. I have found no value in the opinions of a couple members here that have no working knowledge, experience, or any references to ANY of their opinions .Why they post is beyond me.


You made your decision on recommendations from actual users, I think many including me would like to hear back from you on the Andersen. I have yet to read a bad review of the Andersen.

Its time for a couple members as you said, "give it a rest", two in particular have nothing of value to add. They should stick to the tire threads and Ram threads .

[ralphnjoann]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I guarantee you it would have jumped off if I had an Andersen when I came off an off ramp as they had ground the asphalt down about 8". I had air under all 10 tires.

I like to lock my RV to my hitch. That is how I like to do it. So far no one has shown me how they lock their Andersen.

I think you're confusing locking the hitch with locking the hitch handle to prevent tampering. I have a regular fifth wheel hitch. The hitch is locked around the kingpin by rotating the handle and pushing it in; it is unlocked by rotating the handle in the opposite direction and pulling it out. While in the locked position, the handle can be secured with a padlock. This way, nobody can unlock the hitch without unlocking/destroying the padlock.

The T-handle on the Andersen also locks the hitch to the kingpin; however, it doesn't appear that the T-handle itself can be locked to prevent tampering. If the T-handle is in the locked position, your trailer is secure regardless of any 8" drops.

I posted a link above in which you expresed your concerns. As for this thread, give it a rest.

[Cummins12V98]

I guarantee you it would have jumped off if I had an Andersen when I came off an off ramp as they had ground the asphalt down about 8". I had air under all 10 tires.

I like to lock my RV to my hitch. That is how I like to do it. So far no one has shown me how they lock their Andersen.