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Broke Our SuperGlider

milo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Well I managed to bend the locking mechanism on our 2700 PullRite superGlider on only our 2nd tow. Went thru all the pre-checks before backing under the King pin to latch, backed up got it latched, pulled the 5er the 75 miles home and went thru the check-list to unhitch, pulled handle to open the jaws, jaws seemed to open, raised 5er to just off the hitch and pulled forward and would not come out from underneath it. Jaws looked open, but wouldn't let it slide out, so I lowered it & then raised it back up, still would not come out. I pushed on the locking lever and the round ring clip and 2 flat washers & the locking lever fell to the floor ...BROKE. After checking the locking lever saw it was bent on one side. Now I could get the jaws open but could not keep it open so I had to hold it open so DW could pull the truck out from under the pin.
Has anybody else with the 2700 15K Pullrite SuperGlder had this problem. Good thing we were at home unhitching when this happened.

A call to PullRite tomorrow is in order. Also there is a service center for PullRite locally so will also be visiting them.

Milo
Janet & Milo ...47 fantastic yrs 2gether :B
Mona Yorkie & Buddy our beloved Beagle (both in spirit)
2013 F-150 Kodiak Brown XLT 4X4 HD Ecoboost
2014 Cougar 26sab

Living under the best Government money can buy ... Bob Brinker 😉
18 REPLIES 18

mileshuff
Explorer
Explorer
rhagfo wrote:

I stated this in another post!
WHY, WHY, WHY do users think you need to see daylight between the hitch head and the pin plate when Unhitching or hitching!


My owners manual says this:
"Lower the trailer jacks until the bottom of the king pin box is free of the top of the Fifth Wheel Plate. Make certain that the bottom of the king pin is not so high that binding on the hitch Lock catch would result."

For me I really don't have much of a gap when unhitching. I've raised the trailer just to the point I can see movement between the hitch plate and kingpin plate. When weight is unloaded I'll notice a slight slippage between the two. If you are not doing this, then when do you know sufficient weight has been lifted off the hitch?

Pullrite has told me that unlike conventional hitches, Superglides are nearly impossible to high hitch when hitching up. I assume this is because of the capture plate.

If I unhitch with very much load still on hitch (1" down as some suggest) then the trailer pulls forward against the chocks causing the stands to drag 1/4" or so even if chocks are pounded tight against tires. I assume this is just the tires giving a bit. Is it acceptable to cause this lateral force on the stands?
2014 Winnebago 26FWRKS 5th Wheel
2007.5 Dodge 2500 6.7L Diesel
2004 Dodge Durango Hemi 3.55 (Used to tow TT)

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Vulcaneer wrote:
The 1/16th, 1/8th is the amount of GAP they are seeing between the capture plate and the hitch plate when they elevate to unhitch.

Your 1" maybe 2" is when you back in to hitch. Two different things.
Actually the truck does rise about an inch as I pull off. Plenty of weight is on the saddle as I pull away. Never a gap.

milo
Explorer II
Explorer II
OK Don here's what I was told...almost word for word as to what's in the manual;
Hitching up ...
Back up until there is about a 2-4" clearance between the hitch plate & front of the capture plate. Raise or lower the trailer so the bottom of the capture plate is aligned even with the beginning of the ramp area of the hitch plate (right where it bends downward). He said this will let the capture plate ride up on the ramp and flatten or tilt the hitch plate into a parallel position. make sure lock jaw assembly is completely wrapped around the king pin and handle is securely locked into place.

Unhitching...
After blocking the wheels so it won't roll forward or backwards, back into the trailer slightly and set parking brake while still in gear to relieve pressure from locking mechanism before releasing latch mechanism. Lower jacks to just touching the ground, but don't raise trailer yet. Open lock jaw assembly. He said lower jacks to where the bottom of the capture plate is almost free from or just lightly touching the top of the hitch plate but not so high as to cause the king pin to bind on the lock jaw assembly. Then lower the tailgate, unplug electric & breakaway cable and slowly pull forward.
He also said that this problem is more common than you'd think, that he gets lots of calls from even seasoned veteran RVer's having this problem.
Janet & Milo ...47 fantastic yrs 2gether :B
Mona Yorkie & Buddy our beloved Beagle (both in spirit)
2013 F-150 Kodiak Brown XLT 4X4 HD Ecoboost
2014 Cougar 26sab

Living under the best Government money can buy ... Bob Brinker 😉

Duck
Explorer
Explorer
milo wrote:
Final update.... Talked with Pulliam Enterprises CS and the gentleman I spoke with knew exactly what I had done and even how the truck was positioned hooking up that bent the locking lever, and that's how the truck was positioned. He also explained how the king pin & hitch should be positioned for when hitching up & unhitching. He has 2 locking kits on there way as we speak. Excellent ... no better than .. it was fantastic CS service.


OK Inquiring minds want to know what they said about hitching up and unhitching.
Don
08-FORD F350 PSD
13 Bighorn 3055RL {For Sale}

Vulcaneer
Explorer
Explorer
The 1/16th, 1/8th is the amount of GAP they are seeing between the capture plate and the hitch plate when they elevate to unhitch.

Your 1" maybe 2" is when you back in to hitch. Two different things.
'12 F350 SB, CC, SRW, 6.7 PSD, 3.55 RAR, 6 spd auto
2015 DRV 38RSS 'Traditions'
Pullrite Super Glide 18K

Retirement = It's all poops and giggles....UNTIL someone Giggles and Poops.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
1/16"? 1/8"?? I let mine ride up a full 1" maybe 2". No worries.

Vulcaneer
Explorer
Explorer
Milo, Thank you for coming back on here to let us know how you made out. Many people do not do that. And it helps us to know the final outcome.
'12 F350 SB, CC, SRW, 6.7 PSD, 3.55 RAR, 6 spd auto
2015 DRV 38RSS 'Traditions'
Pullrite Super Glide 18K

Retirement = It's all poops and giggles....UNTIL someone Giggles and Poops.

milo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Final update.... Talked with Pulliam Enterprises CS and the gentleman I spoke with knew exactly what I had done and even how the truck was positioned hooking up that bent the locking lever, and that's how the truck was positioned. He also explained how the king pin & hitch should be positioned for when hitching up & unhitching. He has 2 locking kits on there way as we speak. Excellent ... no better than .. it was fantastic CS service.
Janet & Milo ...47 fantastic yrs 2gether :B
Mona Yorkie & Buddy our beloved Beagle (both in spirit)
2013 F-150 Kodiak Brown XLT 4X4 HD Ecoboost
2014 Cougar 26sab

Living under the best Government money can buy ... Bob Brinker 😉

Vulcaneer
Explorer
Explorer
If you let it ride UP the hitch plate when hitching, then why not let it ride DOWN the hitch plate when unhitching.

RHAGFO described it right. You don't want any gap when unhitching.
'12 F350 SB, CC, SRW, 6.7 PSD, 3.55 RAR, 6 spd auto
2015 DRV 38RSS 'Traditions'
Pullrite Super Glide 18K

Retirement = It's all poops and giggles....UNTIL someone Giggles and Poops.

milo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks to those that gave positive feed back.. I figured that's what I did WRONG, raised it a smidgen to high. I get the manual out each time and follow thru the procedure both for hitching & unhitching.
I try & do as mileshuff said:
When hitching set the kingpin just slightly below the level of the hitch plate and let it ride up. Front of capture plate just at the bend in the hitch.
Unhitching the 1/2 dozen times I've done it, I try & only raise the trailer until I just barely see a gap, maybe 32nd to a 1/16".....maybe it was to high, will lower it from now on,
Guess I'm one that's not smart enough to follow direction.

Thanks again
Milo
Janet & Milo ...47 fantastic yrs 2gether :B
Mona Yorkie & Buddy our beloved Beagle (both in spirit)
2013 F-150 Kodiak Brown XLT 4X4 HD Ecoboost
2014 Cougar 26sab

Living under the best Government money can buy ... Bob Brinker 😉

Duck
Explorer
Explorer
mileshuff wrote:
When hitching I set the kingpin just slightly below the level of the hitch plate and let it ride up. About 1/8" below. When unhitching I raise the trailer until I just barely see a gap, maybe 1/16". Never a problem.

When I first got my hitch and 5'er I raised until I saw the kingpin begin to slide slightly on the hitch as the weight is unloaded. Maybe 1/4" below where I'd see a gap. This always caused me problems with it not releasing easily. With a very small gap it glides out every time.


I have used your procedure stated in Paragraph 1 for 8 years and no problems either.
Don
08-FORD F350 PSD
13 Bighorn 3055RL {For Sale}

John_McClain
Explorer
Explorer
rhagfo wrote:
X3 TOO HIGH!!!

I stated this in another post!
WHY, WHY, WHY do users think you need to see daylight between the hitch head and the pin plate when Unhitching or hitching! If the hitch was designed to work that way the hitch head would be just a flat plate without the ramps. I usually hit the hitch about 1" low have been as low as 2" still works!
I have read in other threads about hitching issues, "I don't want to stress the hitch or pin box"! Trust me towing down the road puts FAR more stress on the hitch and pin box than hitting it with the pin plate low.

The reason you hit it low is to prevent "High Hitching", this is where the pin ends up on top of the jaws or bar, first big bump and bye, bye 5er. This is the reason I hit low and still do a pull test with the landing gear still down on the ground supporting most of the 5er weight, easier to overcome friction with less weight on the pin. I don't block my landing gear so the slight movement doesn't harm the legs.

mileshuff wrote:
When hitching I set the kingpin just slightly below the level of the hitch plate and let it ride up. About 1/8" below. When unhitching I raise the trailer until I just barely see a gap, maybe 1/16". Never a problem.

When I first got my hitch and 5'er I raised until I saw the kingpin begin to slide slightly on the hitch as the weight is unloaded. Maybe 1/4" below where I'd see a gap. This always caused me problems with it not releasing easily. With a very small gap it glides out every time.


You are still flirting with issues,really 1/8", is that with the back to the hitch head tilted down in the back or level.


well put sir you hit the pin on the head !!!

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
X3 TOO HIGH!!!

I stated this in another post!
WHY, WHY, WHY do users think you need to see daylight between the hitch head and the pin plate when Unhitching or hitching! If the hitch was designed to work that way the hitch head would be just a flat plate without the ramps. I usually hit the hitch about 1" low have been as low as 2" still works!
I have read in other threads about hitching issues, "I don't want to stress the hitch or pin box"! Trust me towing down the road puts FAR more stress on the hitch and pin box than hitting it with the pin plate low.

The reason you hit it low is to prevent "High Hitching", this is where the pin ends up on top of the jaws or bar, first big bump and bye, bye 5er. This is the reason I hit low and still do a pull test with the landing gear still down on the ground supporting most of the 5er weight, easier to overcome friction with less weight on the pin. I don't block my landing gear so the slight movement doesn't harm the legs.

mileshuff wrote:
When hitching I set the kingpin just slightly below the level of the hitch plate and let it ride up. About 1/8" below. When unhitching I raise the trailer until I just barely see a gap, maybe 1/16". Never a problem.

When I first got my hitch and 5'er I raised until I saw the kingpin begin to slide slightly on the hitch as the weight is unloaded. Maybe 1/4" below where I'd see a gap. This always caused me problems with it not releasing easily. With a very small gap it glides out every time.


You are still flirting with issues,really 1/8", is that with the back to the hitch head tilted down in the back or level.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

mileshuff
Explorer
Explorer
When hitching I set the kingpin just slightly below the level of the hitch plate and let it ride up. About 1/8" below. When unhitching I raise the trailer until I just barely see a gap, maybe 1/16". Never a problem.

When I first got my hitch and 5'er I raised until I saw the kingpin begin to slide slightly on the hitch as the weight is unloaded. Maybe 1/4" below where I'd see a gap. This always caused me problems with it not releasing easily. With a very small gap it glides out every time.
2014 Winnebago 26FWRKS 5th Wheel
2007.5 Dodge 2500 6.7L Diesel
2004 Dodge Durango Hemi 3.55 (Used to tow TT)