Burning out light bulbs

[AUWing]

I have one pendent light that likes to take out bulbs. I was thinking I'd open a few panels and look for a short but it occurred to me I've yet to blow a fuse . . . Shorts take out fuses not bulbs, right? So help calibrate me, what should I be looking for?

[RoyB]

You need to check the DC VOLTAGE when you are connected to SHORE POWER. It will normally read 13.6VDC unless the on-board converter is in one of its smart mode charging events that could get as high as 14.4VDC. The 12.7VDC reading you indicated would be the BATTERY VOLTAGE when fully charged and not having the on-board converter on.

Roy Ken

[SCVJeff]

AUWing wrote:

Me Again wrote:
Led solution.

Agree - need to figure out what's blowing the $1 bulbs before I start sacrificing $13 bulbs

$13 LED's have inboard regulators that should easily hold 16 volts. Many accept up to 32V

[rockintom]

Me Again wrote:

AUWing wrote:

Me Again wrote:
Led solution.

Agree - need to figure out what's blowing the $1 bulbs before I start sacrificing $13 bulbs

Many bulbs now a days are just cheap and do not last long. You are chasing ghosts thinking it is something other just inferior bulbs. Chris

X2...see if you can locate a 1004 LL bulb......LL stands for "long life" Most good auto parts stores have them. Some Walmarts too. Or check this link.http://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-1004-Long-Life-Miniature/dp/B00318V2WS rockin'

[Me_Again]

AUWing wrote:

Me Again wrote:
Led solution.

Agree - need to figure out what's blowing the $1 bulbs before I start sacrificing $13 bulbs

Many bulbs now a days are just cheap and do not last long. You are chasing ghosts thinking it is something other just inferior bulbs. Chris

[ryanw821]

I should add, if its a halogen type bulb, those can burn out (and even explode!) if you get oils from your skin on them, some bulb/fixture manufacturers go as far as including a cotton glove, or a gripping tool to change the bulb. I only add this because I know there are some 12v halogen type bulbs on some rigs, however I don't know if this applies or not here.

Directly from wikipedia:
Handling precautions
Any surface contamination, notably the oil from human fingertips, can damage the quartz envelope when it is heated. Contaminants will create a hot spot on the bulb surface when the lamp is turned on. This extreme, localized heat causes the quartz to change from its vitreous form into a weaker, crystalline form that leaks gas. This weakening may also cause the bulb to form a bubble, weakening it and leading to its explosion. Consequently, manufacturers recommend that quartz lamps should be handled without touching the clear quartz, either by using a clean paper towel or carefully holding the porcelain base. If the quartz is contaminated in any way, it must be thoroughly cleaned with denatured alcohol and dried before use.

[bc_canuck]

Had the same problem in my 2012 Pinnacle 36 REQS. Probably changed four or five bulbs and did check out base, voltage etc but never did correct it. Had similar problem in roof pod lights and was advised that the halogen bulbs created too much heat. Got rid of the problems though ------ I just bought a 2015 Pinnacle 36 REQS, really nice unit. Now I have to correct some of my new problems.

[AUWing]

Me Again wrote:
Led solution.

Agree - need to figure out what's blowing the $1 bulbs before I start sacrificing $13 bulbs

[Me_Again]

http://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Marine-Replacement-Bulbs-1004/dp/B00BNTZGOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1...

Led solution.

[AUWing]

Thanks for the input all. Unfortunately I didn't get to look at it this weekend so I'll have to wait till Friday to check it over. To answer a couple questions:
"Taking out" means it burned out
It's a 12v 1004 double contact bayonet base bulb
When it burns out, it's black which would be over voltage - but it's the only 12v that's not playing nice
Checked voltage . . . 12.7
The rig has been on our seasonal site since April and I'm putting in bulb #3 - no traveling

A loose connection is most likely. Hopefully it's close to the switch or the fixture.

[SailingOn]

Pendant: a light that dangles from the ceiling, bouncing as you drive?

Remove the bulbs before traveling, or keep a generous supply on hand, or change the pendants to something less prone to vibrate.

[Me_Again]

Some bulbs are just more fragile then others. Ones with long filaments are effected by vibrations more. Carry more spares or fine a LED replacement.

Chris

[tvman44]

Voltage. 🙂

[RoyB]

All of the trailer installed lights run from 12VDC. I think you should be checking the DC VOLTS coming from the converter/charger units. These units are known to start producing higher DC VOLTAGES from their nominal 13.6VDC level when they are starting to fail.

I have heard of voltage spikes up to 19VDC or more when this occurs.

One must get a simple to operate MULTIMETER to keep in the trailer. With this always available then you don't have to guess about electrical things. These are not expensive and can be picked from many places such as LOWES-WALMART any number of auto parts places and AMAZON from $7 to $25...


All of us RV guys should have one these around...

Roy Ken

[rockhillmanor]

ryanw821 wrote:

AUWing wrote:
I have one pendent light that likes to take out bulbs. I was thinking I'd open a few panels and look for a short but it occurred to me I've yet to blow a fuse . . . Shorts take out fuses not bulbs, right? So help calibrate me, what should I be looking for?

My thoughts would be to check the voltage at the socket, too high of a voltage will easily pop a bulb.

x2
If the glass on the bulbs are black there is too much voltage and/or a spike of voltage.