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Cable operated dump valves

jdgreen42
Explorer
Explorer
I have the cable operated dump valves and the black valve is so hard to operate that I can barely get it opened and closed. Has anyone used an electric operated valve ? If so , how do you like it and what kind did you use ?

Don
Don
15 REPLIES 15

jamway
Explorer
Explorer
It has been about ten years since we had a cable dump valve but I made a fitting to grease the cable.

I used a 1/4" or a 1/8" pipe coupling to screw on the threads where the cable was bolted on. I had to take the handle off first. Then I screwed on a short piece of pipe, then an another coupling, then a grease zerk. Use the grease gun to pump grease into the cable.

I put a rubber o ring on first because the treads would not keep the grease from leaking out too fast to get in the cable very far.

This is kind of messy but I only had to do this one time in three years.
Happy Camping

2004 2500 CTD HO LB 4X4 auto
2005 Discover America 29 RL


James

motorcycle_jack
Explorer II
Explorer II
Auto Drain installed for 4 years and no problems, no maintenance done and works perfect even with full tanks (75 and 50 gallons).
John
"Motorcycle Jack"
Life time Good Sam Member
Blog: My RV
5th Wheel Blog

Full timing isn't "always camping". It's a different life style living in an RV.

FlatBroke
Explorer II
Explorer II
Last two trailers thought the handle would come off in my hand. The first one came apart at the mount and would not go back in. Our trailer we have now the valves open and close easy and there seems no resistance. I had a couple of feet of the bottom unfastened and could see the cable ran a nice straight line with no unnecessary turns. Guess it all depends on the way there built.

Hitch Hiker
"08" 29.5 FKTG LS

Stefonius
Explorer
Explorer
I think that if you make sure the cables are routed sensibly (not too long, not making unnecessary turns, not kinked or bound, et cetera), you will probably do just fine.
2003 F450 Crew Cab, 7.3 PSD "Truckasaurus"
2010 Coachmen North Ridge 322RLT fiver "Habitat for Insanity"
I love my tent, but the DW said, "RV or Divorce"...

Alannyiri
Explorer
Explorer
What have you all found to be an effective preventative maintenance procedure to keep the cables pliable and easy to open/close? We'll be taking delivery of a new Redwood 38 GK at the end of June. This unit uses cable controlled waste valves as well. We'll be full-timing soon after, and I plan to keep the valves closed for daily living, then opening and flushing tanks when the BW tank reaches about half full. So this may be every 3-5 days - time will tell. I read about the problems people have, and just wonder if many could be averted by an effective regimen from the beginning. Thanks in advance.
Angele & Alan & the Four MusKateers
Redwood 38GK (42 ft)
Ram 3500 Crew Cab, Dually chassis cab: Knapheide Westerner body
Will start full timing 2015

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
Pipeman wrote:
I have the cable operated dump valves also. I had a failure of the black water valve when 2000 miles from home. Took it into a dealer and they said it was the valve that was bad & would have to be replaced but it would take 10 days for the valves to arrive at their location.We would be half way home by that time. I had an end of line valve on the sewer dump line so I used that until I got home. Took it into my dealer and they replaced the cables to the black water and one gray water valve. Works much better. Oh yes, while out west I ended up trying to get a look at the cable, so I took the handle off and proceeded to pull on the cable. There had to be 2 miles of cable in there. Why? Who knows, but my dealer shortened the new one. They said it was the inner sheath that was damaged therefore making it hard to pull and push and eventually failed altogether.


Why, the cables come only one, long, length, and it would take too much time for the workers to shorten it to a more optimal length. They've got the next trailer to work on, don't ya know?

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have my black valve out and a new assembly on order at amazon. They beat any price I found.

The local stealer was in the ozone layer with his price.

Course along with the savings i get to have a little stinky stuff dribble down my arm. :W

Pipeman
Explorer
Explorer
I have the cable operated dump valves also. I had a failure of the black water valve when 2000 miles from home. Took it into a dealer and they said it was the valve that was bad & would have to be replaced but it would take 10 days for the valves to arrive at their location.We would be half way home by that time. I had an end of line valve on the sewer dump line so I used that until I got home. Took it into my dealer and they replaced the cables to the black water and one gray water valve. Works much better. Oh yes, while out west I ended up trying to get a look at the cable, so I took the handle off and proceeded to pull on the cable. There had to be 2 miles of cable in there. Why? Who knows, but my dealer shortened the new one. They said it was the inner sheath that was damaged therefore making it hard to pull and push and eventually failed altogether.
Pipeman
Ontario, Canada
Full Member
35 year Fire Fighter(retired)
VE3PJF

Duck
Explorer
Explorer
filrupmark wrote:
Lube the stainless shaft by the handle also.


X2 this helped mine a lot.
Don
08-FORD F350 PSD
13 Bighorn 3055RL {For Sale}

Stefonius
Explorer
Explorer
Pull the coroplast off of the bottom of your rig and follow the cable back to the valve. You may find that the valve is installed in such a way that the cable makes an unnecessarily sharp bend. This can make it difficult to operate, or cause it to fail to open or close properly.

One of the other forum members had this problem on his unit. I suspect that his tanks may have been installed after a "two joint coffee break" at the factory.
2003 F450 Crew Cab, 7.3 PSD "Truckasaurus"
2010 Coachmen North Ridge 322RLT fiver "Habitat for Insanity"
I love my tent, but the DW said, "RV or Divorce"...

Timothy
Explorer
Explorer
I had Auto Drain electric valves and they worked great. They attached right to my existing valves with no plumbing required. My valves were standard and not cable operated though.

filrupmark
Explorer
Explorer
Lube the stainless shaft by the handle also.
2004 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.0 Diesel, Bilstein 4600 Shocks, 16K B&W Patriot, Michelin M&S
2014 Augusta Flex AF34RS Trailair Tri Glide pinbox,
JT Strong Arms , Bridgestone R250'S, KYB Monotube Gas shocks
Finally a smooth ride !!!

tvman44
Explorer
Explorer
A little mineral oil and a little water and operate the valve a few times and it is lubed for awhile. Works for me. ๐Ÿ™‚
Papa Bob
1* 2008 Brookside by Sunnybrook 32'
1* 2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L PSD
Husky 16K hitch, Tekonsha P3,
Firestone Ride Rite Air Springs, Trailair Equa-Flex, Champion C46540
"A bad day camping is better than a good day at work!"

dbbls
Explorer
Explorer
I had an electric valve once, a Drainmaster. It worked very good until it had water against it, then it would not open. I replaced it once, same problem. Replaced it with a manual one and problem solved. Try some drain valve lubricant in the tank.
2011 F-350 CC Lariat 4X4 Dually Diesel
2012 Big Country 3450TS 5th Wheel