cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

Cable pulls out but won't push in

B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Explorer II
Dealing with a gray tank valve that's stuck open. I opened the Cloroplast and found the valve. I can push the valve closed by hand. The wire inner cable is tight and moves with the valve and the handle in the cabinet goes in like it's supposed to. I can then pull the handle and the valve opens. When I go to push the handle in to close the valve it acts like it's disconnected. The housing is tight where it connects to the valve and the wire is tight where attached to the plunger for the valve. What am I missing?

B.O.
Former Ram/Cummins owner
2015 Silverado 3500 D/A DRW
Yup I'm a fanboy!
2016 Cedar Creek 36CKTS
10 REPLIES 10

golf_bears
Explorer
Explorer
I had the same problem. Valve closes by hand, the cable works to open the valve but the cable will not close the valve.

My problem and I suspect yours, is that the cable housing has pulled apart (unraveled) from where it connects to the fire wall mounting close to the handle. So every time you push on the handle the cable and housing both move. Just buy a new cable and replace the old one. Solved my problem.

Here check out what Amazon has.

Waste Valve Cables.

Allworth
Explorer II
Explorer II
You may be able to use a lawn mower throttle cable. A heavy duty one from a commercial mower repair shop, not a big-box special.
Formerly posting as "littleblackdog"
Martha, Allen, & Blackjack
2006 Chevy 3500 D/A LB SRW, RVND 7710
Previously: 2008 Titanium 30E35SA. Currently no trailer due to age & mobility problems. Very sad!
"Real Jeeps have round headlights"

B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Explorer II
HappyKayakers wrote:
B.O. Plenty wrote:
Thanks for all the replies. Found the problem. The cable housing has pulled out from the barrel located at the top of the cable right behind where it goes through the wall. When I pulled on the cable it slid into place and worked. When I pushed on it the whole outer housing moved away. If I can't re-crimp it back into place,(like that's likely to happen) it's new cable time. I priced one onlne they're sure proud of those things...

B.O.


This sounds like the same problem I had a few years ago. Someone on another forum had a DIY fix for it. Get about a 3" length of 1/4" all thread and a couple of small hose clamps. Position the all thread next to the outer housing and the cable, like a splint. Tighten clamps and test. Good luck.
$50.00 for a new cable! Outrageous the way they try to fleece you on this stuff. I'll give you solution a try. Thank you.

B.O.
Former Ram/Cummins owner
2015 Silverado 3500 D/A DRW
Yup I'm a fanboy!
2016 Cedar Creek 36CKTS

HappyKayakers
Explorer
Explorer
B.O. Plenty wrote:
Thanks for all the replies. Found the problem. The cable housing has pulled out from the barrel located at the top of the cable right behind where it goes through the wall. When I pulled on the cable it slid into place and worked. When I pushed on it the whole outer housing moved away. If I can't re-crimp it back into place,(like that's likely to happen) it's new cable time. I priced one onlne they're sure proud of those things...

B.O.


This sounds like the same problem I had a few years ago. Someone on another forum had a DIY fix for it. Get about a 3" length of 1/4" all thread and a couple of small hose clamps. Position the all thread next to the outer housing and the cable, like a splint. Tighten clamps and test. Good luck.
Joe, Mary and Dakota, the wacko cat
Fulltiming since 2006
2006 Dodge 3500 QC CTD SRW Jacobs Exhaust brake
2017 Open Range 3X388RKS, side porch

FlatBroke
Explorer II
Explorer II
Trouble with most of these new trailers they put everything in a docking station. Most times the dump cables are bent and directed in awkward places. I have seen cables twice as long as they need to be instead of cutting them to length. Making them difficult to operate. I would rather have my dump handles several feet apart with short straight runs. Fortunately The cables in my latest trailer are as smooth as butter.

Hitch Hiker
"08" 29.5 FKTG LS

B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks for all the replies. Found the problem. The cable housing has pulled out from the barrel located at the top of the cable right behind where it goes through the wall. When I pulled on the cable it slid into place and worked. When I pushed on it the whole outer housing moved away. If I can't re-crimp it back into place,(like that's likely to happen) it's new cable time. I priced one onlne they're sure proud of those things...

B.O.
Former Ram/Cummins owner
2015 Silverado 3500 D/A DRW
Yup I'm a fanboy!
2016 Cedar Creek 36CKTS

Gunpilot77
Explorer
Explorer
I got so tired of replacing cables on my last 5er (a Monaco McKenzie) that I tore all the drain plumbing out and reinstalled new drain lines routed along the frame, drilled a couple holes for the handles and used simple blade valves. Much to my chagrin, my new 5er has cables too.:(
Fifth wheel pulled with a pick-up

therink
Explorer
Explorer
Check to see if the cable has an unusual or sharp turn on it. Sometimes moving the cable by hand so it flexes or curves in a different direction helps. I adjusted one of my cables a while back and helped the inner cable move more freely.
Steve Rinker
Rochester, NY
2013 Keystone Sydney 340FBH 5th Wheel, 12,280 lbs loaded (scale)
2015.5 GMC Sierra Denali 3500, SRW, Duramax, CC, Payload 3,700 (sticker- not scaled yet)

Take my posts for what they are, opinions based on my own experiences.

BTPO1
Explorer
Explorer
Sometimes when the cable is fixed the holding device breaks and the cable will move instead of sliding. You might want to check that along with what Old-Biscuit mentioned.
Jack
2003 Rexhall Vision 27'
2019 Chevrolet Equinox
States we have been to with this MH

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Cable operated valve.......you push and cable bends vs pushing valve stem in.

Unless cable has a straight, taunt run to valve or is 'fixed'/held in position the cable can flex when wire inside binds even in the slightest

Spraying lubricant down inside cable helps....if you can get it to flow by spraying while moving wire back/forth.
Dry graphite is good lubricant.

I have found that once they start flexing......time to replace with new.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31