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converter

v2k1966
Explorer
Explorer
Our lights are starting to dim and the converter seems to be kicking on a lot more than it used to.

We have a 2011 Cougar 318 SAB. Where would the converter be located on this camper?

Is there a converter that is better than others if we have to a new one?

Thank You.
33 REPLIES 33

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
v2k1966 wrote:

We are going camping again in 8 days so I am going to put everything back together and see if the lights go dim or not again.


A better plan would be to find out BEFORE you go.
Charge up the battery; let it sit overnight. Measure the voltage.
Connect it back up. Connect to shore power or run gen.
Measure the voltage again.

Turn off the external shore (or gen) power.
Turn on a couple of lights and leave them on for an hour or so.
Measure battery.
Re-connect shore power.
Measure again.

Given those readings, you (we) should be able to have a good idea how things are working well before your next trip.

Readings should be at least to one decimal place ......12.6
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

v2k1966
Explorer
Explorer
When I took the panel off the converter is screwed to the wall behind the panel. I took a picture of the converter with my phone and it says
Model: WF-9855
Input: 105-130VAC, 950W
Output: 13.6VDC 55 amp

We are going camping again in 8 days so I am going to put everything back together and see if the lights go dim or not again.

I like the idea of buying LED light bulbs also.

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
v2k1966 wrote:
it said 12 point something volts.


That "point something" is really important.

And the battery voltage immediately upon removing from a charger is pretty much meaningless.

A reading before you disconnected everything.....while connected to shore power.....would have told the whole story probably but it does appear that your converter is shot.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
This is the converter upgrade I would use. Mine has not failed, but I've still planned to replace it for better charging performance. Just haven't pulled the trigger yet.

http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4655TV-55-Amp-Converter-Upgrade-Section-for-WFCO-8955-or-Parallax-7155-Includes-Remote_p_616.html#.V5DhD9jruUk

If you just want to replace with the same thing that is in there now, this is the WFCO replacement board.

http://www.bestconverter.com/8955MBA-Main-Board-Assembly-For-8955-ANP-or-PEC_p_117.html#.V5Dh49jruUk
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
v2k1966 wrote:
I found the converter, it was behind the fuse panel, it is a WF-9855.

I had the camper plugged in to charge the battery for 3 days and the lights still seemed a little dim. I took the battery out of the camper and tested it, it said 12 point something volts.

I then put the battery on a trickle charger for about 8 hours and tested it again and it said 13.42 volts. I will put the battery in the camper again and see if the lights get dim again.


I'm sure you mean 8955, not 9855. Looks like this?


It is not looking good for your converter, but I still recommend you get your battery load tested. You cannot really test it just by charging and checking voltage. Also, the poor performing converter could have caused premature failure of the battery. Get it tested, even if you replace the converter.

Don't upsize the converter unless you are sure your wiring will support the load. There isn't much point in upsizing IMO. 55A is plenty for that Cougar.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

Mike_LeClair
Explorer
Explorer
Yup, yer converter is SHOT! I'm really surprised that it lasted this long. Ours died after less than 2 years of FT service. Regardless of the chest thumping for this brand vs that brand, even if you go with a WFCO, upgrade the load from 55 amp capacity to 75 amp capacity. I'm surprised that you rig only has one battery. Other suggestion is to get on the LED band wagon and start replacing the stock 921 bulbs with LED's - you won't regret it.

Cheers!

Mike
Something Old, Something New
2012 F350 SRW, 6.7l Powerstroke, 3.55's front and rear.
2008 Fleetwood Regal 325RKTS
Mike, Carol and our 4 legged "furry child" Kenzie Shweenie Tod

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
v2k1966 wrote:
I found the converter, it was behind the fuse panel, it is a WF-9855.

I had the camper plugged in to charge the battery for 3 days and the lights still seemed a little dim. I took the battery out of the camper and tested it, it said 12 point something volts.

I then put the battery on a trickle charger for about 8 hours and tested it again and it said 13.42 volts. I will put the battery in the camper again and see if the lights get dim again.


Plugged in for 3 days and battery voltage only 12.something
8 hours on trickle charger battery voltage 13.42

That WFCO converter charger is NOT putting out the correct DC Voltage.

Replace it ......preferably with a 3 stage Progressive Dynamics Model
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

v2k1966
Explorer
Explorer
I found the converter, it was behind the fuse panel, it is a WF-9855.

I had the camper plugged in to charge the battery for 3 days and the lights still seemed a little dim. I took the battery out of the camper and tested it, it said 12 point something volts.

I then put the battery on a trickle charger for about 8 hours and tested it again and it said 13.42 volts. I will put the battery in the camper again and see if the lights get dim again.

ventrman
Explorer
Explorer
The Converter is under the Fuse Panel.
God Bless!

RustyJC
Explorer
Explorer
If you have a multi-stage converter, it sounds like it's cycling between the boost and normal modes. Again, this more rapid cycling over time can be a sign of a deteriorating battery.

Rusty
2014.5 DRV Mobile Suites 38RSSA #6972

2016 Ram 3500 Dually Longhorn Crew Cab Long Bed, 4x4, 385/900 Cummins, Aisin AS69RC, 4.10, 39K+ GCWR, 30K+ trailer tow rating, 14K GVWR

B&W RVK3600

v2k1966
Explorer
Explorer
it seems like when the fan or noise starts then the lights get bright. Once the fan or noise quits the lights then start to dim again. The more lights that are on the shorter the time before the fan kicks in and then the lights get brighter again.

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
And just a minor point of clarification:
If by "Kicking on" you mean the sound, that's just a cooling fan.
The converter "runs" all the time to power the 12 V electrics and keep the battery charged. It charges a bit more at some times than others but you usually can't tell the difference without some meters.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
Your converter should be built-in to your load center. So find the panel that has the AC breakers and DC fuses. It will be inside the coach, usually down low on a cabinet face. Your converter is part of that. It is a WFCO brand. I would bet it is the same model as mine, a WFCO 8955PEC.

I don't know if you need a converter at this point, but if you do, be advised that there are better converters available that will install in your existing load center. Check out www.bestcoverter.com, and look at the Progressive Dynamics and the Boondocker brands.

At this point I would guess you do NOT need a converter. Because they usually either work, or they don't. They don't work weakly or dimly.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

v2k1966
Explorer
Explorer
The camper has only 1 - 12 volt battery. The connection ends all looked good.

caberto
Explorer
Explorer
I'm thinking you should have two batteries... ours is a 2010 324rlb unit and has two. I would think we also have the same or similar converter. Our converter is in the hallway close to the floor.

We replaced both batteries recently due to similar symptoms; lights dim, and wouldn't hold a charge as well as they used to. All is good with the new
batteries.
2010 Keystone Cougar 324RLB
2005 GMC 2500HD Duramax/Allison 4x4 Crew Cab S/B
www.imagesbyberto.com
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