My 8k axle and disc conversion job complete. I am extremely happy with the axle upgrade as the rig just doesn't "lumber" around behind the truck anymore, it looks like it has an adequate suspension under it. One thing I started to do was just replace the springs which would probably have done the same thing, but since I was going that far, I opted for the axles as well. As I stated before, you don't have to change out the axles if you don't want to as the 7k and 8k axles have the same spindle on them, only the tube size is different. You can still get the 8k disc system that has 9/16" lug studs if you opt not to replace the axles, allowing you to upgrade the axles later if you like. I opted for the axles as well as with my generator and Legacy package, I am higher up into the 1k pounds that Keystone says they build the unit to handle. Here are pics and and explanation of my install. I did it myself with the help of my dad, wife and son. I used 4 12 ton jack stands as a safety as I've had a couple of friends perish due to vehicles falling. Removing the stock axles was easy and I bought the shear springs as mine is a '16.5 and thought I would replace them, however opted not to replace them as there were no cracks in them. I opted not to add the springs to the axles out from under the rig, so I put in the springs first and torqued the HD MorRyde shackles to 45-50 ft/lbs. I then hung the axles under the springs with all new hardware supplied by Performance Trailer Braking, torquing the ubolts to 75ft/lbs and greased the wet bolts with Dexter's recommended grease. I then installed the brake caliper brackets with blue loctite on the threads and torqued to 50ft/lbs. I used a bearing packer to pack the wheel bearings with Lucas Red Tacky grease and installed. The caliper pins were greased with Permatex Ultra Disc brake lube and calipers installed and torqued to 45ft/lbs. The supplied, pre-made up lines were installed and I had to use a couple of custom brackets of angle iron. to hang the right side flexible hoses to. The problem I ran into was that the crossover lines are 66" and are just short for my rig. I mounted the actuator in the battery compartment and ran the line to it. With the angle I had there, I made a support bracket for the flexible to hard line connection as Roy did in his install. I also ran the crossover lines between the two layers of belly material so they would be protected from road debris. I wasn't too pleased with the running of the main line down the outside of the frame so I changed the line clamps around and got it in a safer location from debris. The electrical connections were not as bad I was expecting, but a quick phone call to Michael at Performance and all was good. The lines were bled from the farthest one back to the closest several times to insure all air was removed and then the wheels were put back on and torqued to 140-170ft/lbs as the wheel stud size is now 9/16". Initial impression is GREAT!!! The new springs stop the unit from swaying as much and the brakes are indeed a welcome change. The pads will have to break in a bit but already dropped the controller from a 9.5 from the electric to 6.5 with the electric over hydraulic. I did not lock up the brakes during the test run as I see no need unless absolutely necessary. I am very pleased with the upgrade. Here are pics of the process. While I was under the rig, I noticed that the J panel had several bolts that had been pulled through it, so I put larger fender washers on them to help keep the vibration down. Also, on the first trip out, my family laughed at me the first couple of stops as I stopped well short of the stop bars. The rigs should come this way from the factory. Total cost of the install is under $3400.
