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Dropped 5er with Pullrite SuperGlide?

MNRon
Explorer
Explorer
I recognize that the internet breeds paranoia. I've read several threads over the years about dropped fifth wheels on pickups, but another current thread got me to wondering. I have a Pullrite Superglide that I'm very happy with. The wrap-around jaws make it difficult to believe that they could release if closed properly, and it's hard to understand how they could be closed improperly.

All of that preamble is setting up the question. Has anyone actually dropped a fifth-wheel using a Pullrite Superglide? Not looking for "saw one dropped once" or "heard of one" etc. Just trying to understand if anyone has live experience with this problem when using a Pullrite.

As always, thanks.
Ron
Ron & Pat
2022 F350 Lariat CCSB SRW Diesel
2019 VanLeigh Vilano 320 GK
93 REPLIES 93

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
johndeerefarmer wrote:
up2nogood wrote:
Hannibal wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
johndeerefarmer wrote:
I have only had mine a few months. I always do the pull test but for added insurance have one of these. Lots cheaper than a tailgate and new sides for your truck bed.

http://www.5thwheellatchkit.com/


Look at the bottom pics on the site listed. It is a B&W hitch. If you have their product you would have to get your face right up there to install the bar with this product. So if all you did instead is LOOK at the jaws to see they are wrapped around the kingpin and the hitch and kingpin plates are touching and the hitch handle is closed and locked it can't come un hitched.

Put the bar in place is just another step just like doing a visual.



Same is true with the Reese two jaw hitch.



He fails to realize, that all hitches require these same steps. the two are touching, the jaw is closed ,and the handle is locked. Good grief there is nothing else, unfortunately some do not do all the correct things resulting in a dropped fifth wheel.


Just because the jaws are closed doesn't mean that it's locked. On the Pullrite the jaw can close around the visible part of the pin and it still might not be locked. Furthermore, I can visually see that my added latch kit is in fact latched- no ifs, ands or buts.


I understand your system and I may do the same if I had a SB truck.

I look at the jaws closed around the kingpin and then lock the handle closed. It can't come undone at that point with the hitch I pictured above.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

johndeerefarmer
Explorer III
Explorer III
up2nogood wrote:
Hannibal wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
johndeerefarmer wrote:
I have only had mine a few months. I always do the pull test but for added insurance have one of these. Lots cheaper than a tailgate and new sides for your truck bed.

http://www.5thwheellatchkit.com/


Look at the bottom pics on the site listed. It is a B&W hitch. If you have their product you would have to get your face right up there to install the bar with this product. So if all you did instead is LOOK at the jaws to see they are wrapped around the kingpin and the hitch and kingpin plates are touching and the hitch handle is closed and locked it can't come un hitched.

Put the bar in place is just another step just like doing a visual.



Same is true with the Reese two jaw hitch.



He fails to realize, that all hitches require these same steps. the two are touching, the jaw is closed ,and the handle is locked. Good grief there is nothing else, unfortunately some do not do all the correct things resulting in a dropped fifth wheel.


Just because the jaws are closed doesn't mean that it's locked. On the Pullrite the jaw can close around the visible part of the pin and it still might not be locked. Furthermore, I can visually see that my added latch kit is in fact latched- no ifs, ands or buts.
2020 Ford 350 6.7 PSD & 2017 F150 3.5 EB max tow
GD Reflection 29rs

Bird_Freak
Explorer II
Explorer II
Out of 8 pages I think there are maybe 3 post that really answered the OP's question. Everyone else is pushing their hitches or pull test and everything else. Why can't folks here just answer the question? Is it just a chance to argue yours is better or what?
OP, I have a PR Superglide and have never had a problem of dropping and know of no others.
Eddie
03 Fleetwood Pride, 36-5L
04 Ford F-250 Superduty
15K Pullrite Superglide
Old coach 04 Pace Arrow 37C with brakes sometimes.
Owner- The Toy Shop-
Auto Restoration and Customs 32 years. Retired by a stroke!
We love 56 T-Birds

Pete_k
Explorer
Explorer
If the jaws are closed around the pin. You look to make sure along with do the pull test. Theres no way its coming out unless you hooked up high and the king pin is on top of the jaws and not down inside the jaws.
I would say 99.9999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999 % of the people that dropped there trailers, it was there fault. That other person know its there fault but will not tell you it was.

When a king pin is in the jaws bottom flange is below the jaws. Your going to rip the king pin out of the unit. Or the 5th wheel off the truck. Before it fails.
I for one always even when I was running over the road in a Semi. I go to the back and look to make sure its inside the jaws and not up on them. The jaws are closed around the pin. Also that the pull lever is in and locked. Then do the pull test. And in 30+ years have only had one trailer come unhooked.. That one was from a broken hitch. And caught the trailer before it hit anything. AS I was doing the pull test when it happened.
Good luck and be safe.
Pete
2022 Ram Big Horn DRW
2016 Eagle Cap 1200
2012 Landmark Key Largo
2005 Chevy Kodiak c5500 Cummins 5.9/Allison Trans

justafordguy
Explorer
Explorer
Always do a pull test.
2015 Heartland Gateway 3650BH
2017 F350 CCLB KR FX4
2005 F250 CC FX4
77 Bronco, 302,C4,PS,PB,A/C,33" KM2s,D44/Lock-Right,9"/Grizzly locker

MarkTwain
Explorer
Explorer
Doing a "Pull Test" ๐Ÿ™‚
You Have everything to gain and nothing to loose:):)

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
Hannibal wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
johndeerefarmer wrote:
I have only had mine a few months. I always do the pull test but for added insurance have one of these. Lots cheaper than a tailgate and new sides for your truck bed.

http://www.5thwheellatchkit.com/


Look at the bottom pics on the site listed. It is a B&W hitch. If you have their product you would have to get your face right up there to install the bar with this product. So if all you did instead is LOOK at the jaws to see they are wrapped around the kingpin and the hitch and kingpin plates are touching and the hitch handle is closed and locked it can't come un hitched.

Put the bar in place is just another step just like doing a visual.



Same is true with the Reese two jaw hitch.



He fails to realize, that all hitches require these same steps. the two are touching, the jaw is closed ,and the handle is locked. Good grief there is nothing else, unfortunately some do not do all the correct things resulting in a dropped fifth wheel.

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
larry barnhart wrote:
Dave H M wrote:
I don't recall doing a pull test ever. I see no reason for it if the jaws have closed and locked.

I do do a brake test though.



why do a brake test they worked the last time you hit the brakes.
I know I m being silly but I would do both it is so easy.

chevman


Larry, if you are following this thread I think it is apples and oranges. hitch is mechanical - brakes are electric and cannot be checked visually like a set of jaws. :h

Hannibal
Explorer
Explorer
Cummins12V98 wrote:
johndeerefarmer wrote:
I have only had mine a few months. I always do the pull test but for added insurance have one of these. Lots cheaper than a tailgate and new sides for your truck bed.

http://www.5thwheellatchkit.com/


Look at the bottom pics on the site listed. It is a B&W hitch. If you have their product you would have to get your face right up there to install the bar with this product. So if all you did instead is LOOK at the jaws to see they are wrapped around the kingpin and the hitch and kingpin plates are touching and the hitch handle is closed and locked it can't come un hitched.

Put the bar in place is just another step just like doing a visual.



Same is true with the Reese two jaw hitch.
2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
johndeerefarmer wrote:
I have only had mine a few months. I always do the pull test but for added insurance have one of these. Lots cheaper than a tailgate and new sides for your truck bed.

http://www.5thwheellatchkit.com/


Look at the bottom pics on the site listed. It is a B&W hitch. If you have their product you would have to get your face right up there to install the bar with this product. So if all you did instead is LOOK at the jaws to see they are wrapped around the kingpin and the hitch and kingpin plates are touching and the hitch handle is closed and locked it can't come un hitched.

Put the bar in place is just another step just like doing a visual.

2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

johndeerefarmer
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have only had mine a few months. I always do the pull test but for added insurance have one of these. Lots cheaper than a tailgate and new sides for your truck bed.

http://www.5thwheellatchkit.com/
2020 Ford 350 6.7 PSD & 2017 F150 3.5 EB max tow
GD Reflection 29rs

milo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Haven't drop it yet...knock on Pinocc's head. After pulling TT's for over 30 yrs we switched to a 5er. I practiced hitching & unhitching in the driveway maybe 25 times so I had an idea of what I was doing when it came time out in the wild. Well on our 2nd trip while trying to hitch back up after out camping in a FSCG, the truck was on a slight side to side slant and also a front to back slant. Took 3 or 4 tries to hook it up but finally got it. Did pull test... thought all was good. Got home & couldn't get it unhooked. Pulled handle, jaws wouldn't open. Had to do some prying and the little lever under the jaws just fell off. Jaws opened and finally got it unhitched after some work.
When I hitch I bent the lever that pivots under the jaws and it wedged the pin in there with the jaws around the pin. Was lucky we didn't drop it on the way home. Had to call Pullrite & get them to send me a new lever. Also left the jaws open while unhitched, Now each time after unhitching I close the jaws and reopen em before I hitch op again & make sure .... I really make sure everything is totally lined up & the pin is exactly where it is suppose to be on the hitch when backing up to the pin. May take me a few extra minutes but could save me some bucks.
Janet & Milo ...47 fantastic yrs 2gether :B
Mona Yorkie & Buddy our beloved Beagle (both in spirit)
2013 F-150 Kodiak Brown XLT 4X4 HD Ecoboost
2014 Cougar 26sab

Living under the best Government money can buy ... Bob Brinker ๐Ÿ˜‰

CJW8
Explorer
Explorer
MNRon wrote:
Has anyone actually dropped a fifth-wheel using a Pullrite Superglide? Not looking for "saw one dropped once" or "heard of one" etc. Just trying to understand if anyone has live experience with this problem when using a Pullrite.

As always, thanks.
Ron


Yes I have dropped mine once in 2007. First time hook up with new SuperGlide and new to me 5th wheel.

I couldn't get it to latch. Tried for an hour in hot sun till past dark. I became frustrated. Tried hitting it a little harder with no latching occurring. Finally I thought I would back it up a bit as I knew I couldn't move forward. I lifted the front jacks some inches and backed up 1-2 feet. Stopped truck but RV kept rolling about another foot. BOOM! I didn't want to look! It dropped but the front legs caught it. It just barely made contact with the truck, no real damage.

I finally unpinned the head from the SG and manually shoved it onto the pin so I could see what was happening. The trip lever was not being moved far enough to trip the latch. I found an appropriate size piece of rubber hose and cut a 1/2' long piece of it and shoved it on the latch roller to make it slightly larger. Walla! It worked. I have had many connections since then. I always make sure the handle is all the way in the lock position and look to make sure the jaw is closed. I also never hook/un-hook without trailer wheels choked. I use a checklist.

To this day I do not know why this adjustment was necessary but I saw no way to adjust the latching trigger mechanism so I always wondered if my pin was slightly undersized.
2003 Forest River Sierra M-37SP Toy Hauler- Traded in
2015 Keystone Raptor 332TS 5th wheel toy Hauler (sold)
2004 Winnebago Vectra. 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad

wilber1
Explorer
Explorer
If you forget to put the landing gear down before you unhook, it won't matter what kind of hitch you have, Murphy never sleeps.
"Never trust a man who has not a single redeeming vice" WSC

2011 RAM 3500 SRW
2015 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS

CarlT100
Explorer
Explorer
Sorry to hear that. I hate a freaking thief!
Carl S
US Army Retired

'11 F-450, 6.7, 4X4, crewcab; '14 Fuzion Impact toyhauler
'12 Triumph Tiger 800XC; '03 Triumph Bonneville T100, 1968 Triumph TR6 Trophy 650cc
SWMBO: '13 HD Sportster; '06 Honda Big Ruckus