DRW vs SRW Trucks

[Hookem2004]

Wife and I are looking at a Grand Design Momentum 397TH. Weight on that 5'er is 20,000 lbs loaded. I currently have a 2006 DRW truck now and need to buy a newer truck to handle that sort of capacity.

I see that the single rear wheel drive trucks have a capacity of only 17,000 lbs. Does anyone tow in the 20,000 lb class with a single? I know your not legal, but just curious if anyone has had any issues with single rear wheel.

Thanks....I know I'll be getting another DRW, but if I can get the wife to scale down on the trailer size, maybe I can get a SRW instead.

[lawnspecialties]

fly-boy wrote:
Driver experience should absolutely factor into the equation. Many towing trailers have no business driving let alone towing a large rv. But don't forget the tow ratings on a vehicle are set by the manufacture and based on continuous duty. For many towing over the mfg ratings is not any more dangerous than removing your mattress tags- regardless of the terrain.

An excellent post. Maybe if I was pulling a car hauler all over the country, I could see problems over time. But my truck is hooked to the camper maybe 25% of its miles.

[fly-boy]

Lantley wrote:

fly-boy wrote:
As a confessed habitually overloaded trailer tower I can speak first hand from experience. These trucks are not made to even tow at the max ratings on a continual basis- which most don't come anywhere near. If you do you will want to sell or trade your truck in very near the 100k mile mark.

With the above in mind, the big three can all very safely tow over their ratings and if it is not a continuous everyday deal I would not even sweat it.

While I understand where you are coming from towing experience and where you are towing are huge factors to consider. Towing in the flats allows for a lot more operator error and will be way more forgiving to an overweight combo vs. towing through mountain and more challenging terrain.
I would not advise those with no experience that it is OK to tow over their ratings.
Sounds like something an RV salesman might say...

Driver experience should absolutely factor into the equation. Many towing trailers have no business driving let alone towing a large rv. But don't forget the tow ratings on a vehicle are set by the manufacture and based on continuous duty. For many towing over the mfg ratings is not any more dangerous than removing your mattress tags- regardless of the terrain.

[Lantley]

fly-boy wrote:
As a confessed habitually overloaded trailer tower I can speak first hand from experience. These trucks are not made to even tow at the max ratings on a continual basis- which most don't come anywhere near. If you do you will want to sell or trade your truck in very near the 100k mile mark.

With the above in mind, the big three can all very safely tow over their ratings and if it is not a continuous everyday deal I would not even sweat it.

While I understand where you are coming from towing experience and where you are towing are huge factors to consider. Towing in the flats allows for a lot more operator error and will be way more forgiving to an overweight combo vs. towing through mountain and more challenging terrain.
I would not advise those with no experience that it is OK to tow over their ratings.
Sounds like something an RV salesman might say...

[fly-boy]

As a confessed habitually overloaded trailer tower I can speak first hand from experience. These trucks are not made to even tow at the max ratings on a continual basis- which most don't come anywhere near. If you do you will want to sell or trade your truck in very near the 100k mile mark.

With the above in mind, the big three can all very safely tow over their ratings and if it is not a continuous everyday deal I would not even sweat it.

[LowRyter]

what would it take to make your current dually haul it?

[lincster]

jshupe wrote:

lincster wrote:

jshupe wrote:

lincster wrote:

jshupe wrote:

tinner12002 wrote:

joebedford wrote:
@jshupe: you're right but we're looking at different numbers.

I assumed that rig would have a GVWR of 21K but it's only 19.5K so he's only 3500 over max tow rating.

Its just a matter of time before towing over your trucks rating will start to show up on equipment failures, tranny, rear axle or more. Those ratings are there for a reason, not just #s to look at and say ah those are just there for ***** and giggles. Everyone just needs to do what their pocketbook can afford and what they feel comfortable with.

-

*Rear axles on a dually have different hubs and deeper rotors on the end. Still an AAM 11.5 with identical gearing. AAM rates both for 10900#.
Identical engine (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical transmission (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical transfer case (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical axles (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)*
- Identical brakes (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical front suspension (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Different wheels and tires**
- Different rear suspension***

**Wheels on my truck have a 4500# rating. Tires a 4950# rating. Factory had 3150#.
***My rear suspension has been completely upgraded to what is considered an upgrade for DRW trucks

What exact components are going to fail? Please tell me how my engine, transmission, and rear axle are suddenly going to fail due to a door sticker. I researched this meticulously, spending an enormous amount of time digging into parts diagrams, and have yet to find the answer. I'm well within the limits of a DRW but over the limits of a SRW. Limits that happen to be directly tied to only suspension and tires, it seems, both of which have been upgraded accordingly. The only advantage to a DRW for me at this time would be if I were getting anywhere close to the 9000# "weak link" of the wheels (4500# x2) for the RAW.

Identical engine (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical transmission (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical transfer case (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical axles (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)* Not True
- Identical brakes (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) Not True
- Identical front suspension (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)

Go to the body builder guide for Ford and you can find tables to support what I disagree with.

DRW gearing is 3.73. You can't get that on a SRW.

I am giving numbers for my 2012 Ford. I did a lot of research before I bought.
Other manufactures may differ, I am referring to Ford to dispute your claims.

And you can clearly see in my sig that I drive a GM. They use the same 3.73 gears for all Duramax engines - SRW or DRW. You can confirm here:

https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/Chevrolet/northamerica/usa/nscwebsite/en/Home/Vehicles/Commercial/02_PDFs/MY15-Trailering-Guide.pdf

So your issue isn't an issue of SRW vs DRW, it's an issue with Ford's specs.

First, I don't have an issue, I have the correct truck for my trailer and am within ALL of my tow ratings without having to modify anything.
Second, you need to state that in your quotes as I did, what brand you are referring to, instead of making blanket statements....

First, I don't have an issue either. Yes I had to make some modifications, but you have not told me specifically how these components are going to fail when I'm within all specifications for the components currently installed on my truck. What matters are the components on your truck while doing the work, not what components were on the truck when it shipped empty to a dealer lot. Door stickers show what the truck was configured for from the factory. I acknowledge that the sticker will not change, but stickers cannot take into consideration changes made after the truck leaves the factory. I'm still waiting to hear -- from a purely technical standpoint -- what is going to fail due to a sticker; last I checked, the sticker isn't a weight bearing component. I'm not asking about legality here, as I was specifically told in this thread that my components are going to fail. I want to know why tinner12002 believes that, and how specifically tinner12002 anticipates things will fail.

Second, when I say "my" and have my rig clearly noted in my signature, I don't think it is too far of a stretch to figure out what I'm talking about.

Do you even own a toy hauler???? AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Wrong forum dude......

I'm out!!!!!!!

[tinner12002]

I don't really care if someone wants to pull a loaded semi trailer around with their pickup, all I'm saying that a pickup won't last long to that kind of use.
I just as many prefer to get the TV we need rather than to get one that will marginally work and spend loads of money or time making it so it can do the job your wanting it to do. OK not saying any more about it...lol!

[lawnspecialties]

dedmiston wrote:

lincster wrote:
Where is the dead horse getting beat dedmiston???? LOL

Hey man, leave me outta this. The only reason I joined the Dually Club was so you wouldn't give me grief for my numbers.

:B

:B:B:B:B

[tinner12002]

jshupe wrote:

lincster wrote:

jshupe wrote:

lincster wrote:

jshupe wrote:

tinner12002 wrote:

joebedford wrote:
@jshupe: you're right but we're looking at different numbers.

I assumed that rig would have a GVWR of 21K but it's only 19.5K so he's only 3500 over max tow rating.

Its just a matter of time before towing over your trucks rating will start to show up on equipment failures, tranny, rear axle or more. Those ratings are there for a reason, not just #s to look at and say ah those are just there for ***** and giggles. Everyone just needs to do what their pocketbook can afford and what they feel comfortable with.

-

*Rear axles on a dually have different hubs and deeper rotors on the end. Still an AAM 11.5 with identical gearing. AAM rates both for 10900#.
Identical engine (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical transmission (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical transfer case (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical axles (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)*
- Identical brakes (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical front suspension (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Different wheels and tires**
- Different rear suspension***

**Wheels on my truck have a 4500# rating. Tires a 4950# rating. Factory had 3150#.
***My rear suspension has been completely upgraded to what is considered an upgrade for DRW trucks

What exact components are going to fail? Please tell me how my engine, transmission, and rear axle are suddenly going to fail due to a door sticker. I researched this meticulously, spending an enormous amount of time digging into parts diagrams, and have yet to find the answer. I'm well within the limits of a DRW but over the limits of a SRW. Limits that happen to be directly tied to only suspension and tires, it seems, both of which have been upgraded accordingly. The only advantage to a DRW for me at this time would be if I were getting anywhere close to the 9000# "weak link" of the wheels (4500# x2) for the RAW.

Identical engine (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical transmission (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical transfer case (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical axles (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)* Not True
- Identical brakes (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) Not True
- Identical front suspension (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)

Go to the body builder guide for Ford and you can find tables to support what I disagree with.

DRW gearing is 3.73. You can't get that on a SRW.

I am giving numbers for my 2012 Ford. I did a lot of research before I bought.
Other manufactures may differ, I am referring to Ford to dispute your claims.

And you can clearly see in my sig that I drive a GM. They use the same 3.73 gears for all Duramax engines - SRW or DRW. You can confirm here:

https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/Chevrolet/northamerica/usa/nscwebsite/en/Home/Vehicles/Commercial/02_PDFs/MY15-Trailering-Guide.pdf

So your issue isn't an issue of SRW vs DRW, it's an issue with Ford's specs.

First, I don't have an issue, I have the correct truck for my trailer and am within ALL of my tow ratings without having to modify anything.
Second, you need to state that in your quotes as I did, what brand you are referring to, instead of making blanket statements....

First, I don't have an issue either. Yes I had to make some modifications, but you have not told me specifically how these components are going to fail when I'm within all specifications for the components currently installed on my truck. What matters are the components on your truck while doing the work, not what components were on the truck when it shipped empty to a dealer lot. Door stickers show what the truck was configured for from the factory. I acknowledge that the sticker will not change, but stickers cannot take into consideration changes made after the truck leaves the factory. I'm still waiting to hear -- from a purely technical standpoint -- what is going to fail due to a sticker; last I checked, the sticker isn't a weight bearing component. I'm not asking about legality here, as I was specifically told in this thread that my components are going to fail. I want to know why tinner12002 believes that, and how specifically tinner12002 anticipates things will fail.

Second, when I say "my" and have my rig clearly noted in my signature, I don't think it is too far of a stretch to figure out what I'm talking about.

What I was referring to was those who overload their TV either by axle rating, overloading or towing more than TV is rated to tow. I'm just saying those limitations/stickers are put on there for a reason, to give the owner an amount by which he/she can safely tow or load their vehicle and stay within the limitations of the tranny, the rear axle and chassis. Any time those limits are exceeded the owner runs the risk of premature equipment failure.

[2BLAZERS]

I'm always been a fan of going dually.

No worries about pin weight.
Usually equals a long bed.
Currently duals on Rams are the only way to get the lower gears in the axles.
Saves reserve capacity to you can add diesel tanks in the bed or larger replacement tanks. Or just throw a bunch of firewood and stuff in the bed.

The only way I'd do a short bed and or SRW - if I had to park in a garage cause of an HOA or in a parking garage cause of work.

[n0arp]

lincster wrote:

jshupe wrote:

lincster wrote:

jshupe wrote:

tinner12002 wrote:

joebedford wrote:
@jshupe: you're right but we're looking at different numbers.

I assumed that rig would have a GVWR of 21K but it's only 19.5K so he's only 3500 over max tow rating.

Its just a matter of time before towing over your trucks rating will start to show up on equipment failures, tranny, rear axle or more. Those ratings are there for a reason, not just #s to look at and say ah those are just there for ***** and giggles. Everyone just needs to do what their pocketbook can afford and what they feel comfortable with.

-

*Rear axles on a dually have different hubs and deeper rotors on the end. Still an AAM 11.5 with identical gearing. AAM rates both for 10900#.
Identical engine (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical transmission (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical transfer case (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical axles (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)*
- Identical brakes (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical front suspension (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Different wheels and tires**
- Different rear suspension***

**Wheels on my truck have a 4500# rating. Tires a 4950# rating. Factory had 3150#.
***My rear suspension has been completely upgraded to what is considered an upgrade for DRW trucks

What exact components are going to fail? Please tell me how my engine, transmission, and rear axle are suddenly going to fail due to a door sticker. I researched this meticulously, spending an enormous amount of time digging into parts diagrams, and have yet to find the answer. I'm well within the limits of a DRW but over the limits of a SRW. Limits that happen to be directly tied to only suspension and tires, it seems, both of which have been upgraded accordingly. The only advantage to a DRW for me at this time would be if I were getting anywhere close to the 9000# "weak link" of the wheels (4500# x2) for the RAW.

Identical engine (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical transmission (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical transfer case (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical axles (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)* Not True
- Identical brakes (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) Not True
- Identical front suspension (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)

Go to the body builder guide for Ford and you can find tables to support what I disagree with.

DRW gearing is 3.73. You can't get that on a SRW.

I am giving numbers for my 2012 Ford. I did a lot of research before I bought.
Other manufactures may differ, I am referring to Ford to dispute your claims.

And you can clearly see in my sig that I drive a GM. They use the same 3.73 gears for all Duramax engines - SRW or DRW. You can confirm here:

https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/Chevrolet/northamerica/usa/nscwebsite/en/Home/Vehicles/Commercial/02_PDFs/MY15-Trailering-Guide.pdf

So your issue isn't an issue of SRW vs DRW, it's an issue with Ford's specs.

First, I don't have an issue, I have the correct truck for my trailer and am within ALL of my tow ratings without having to modify anything.
Second, you need to state that in your quotes as I did, what brand you are referring to, instead of making blanket statements....

First, I don't have an issue either. Yes I had to make some modifications, but you have not told me specifically how these components are going to fail when I'm within all specifications for the components currently installed on my truck. What matters are the components on your truck while doing the work, not what components were on the truck when it shipped empty to a dealer lot. Door stickers show what the truck was configured for from the factory. I acknowledge that the sticker will not change, but stickers cannot take into consideration changes made after the truck leaves the factory. I'm still waiting to hear -- from a purely technical standpoint -- what is going to fail due to a sticker; last I checked, the sticker isn't a weight bearing component. I'm not asking about legality here, as I was specifically told in this thread that my components are going to fail. I want to know why tinner12002 believes that, and how specifically tinner12002 anticipates things will fail.

Second, when I say "my" and have my rig clearly noted in my signature, I don't think it is too far of a stretch to figure out what I'm talking about.

[lincster]

jshupe wrote:

lincster wrote:

jshupe wrote:

tinner12002 wrote:

joebedford wrote:
@jshupe: you're right but we're looking at different numbers.

I assumed that rig would have a GVWR of 21K but it's only 19.5K so he's only 3500 over max tow rating.

Its just a matter of time before towing over your trucks rating will start to show up on equipment failures, tranny, rear axle or more. Those ratings are there for a reason, not just #s to look at and say ah those are just there for ***** and giggles. Everyone just needs to do what their pocketbook can afford and what they feel comfortable with.

-

*Rear axles on a dually have different hubs and deeper rotors on the end. Still an AAM 11.5 with identical gearing. AAM rates both for 10900#.
Identical engine (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical transmission (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical transfer case (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical axles (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)*
- Identical brakes (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical front suspension (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Different wheels and tires**
- Different rear suspension***

**Wheels on my truck have a 4500# rating. Tires a 4950# rating. Factory had 3150#.
***My rear suspension has been completely upgraded to what is considered an upgrade for DRW trucks

What exact components are going to fail? Please tell me how my engine, transmission, and rear axle are suddenly going to fail due to a door sticker. I researched this meticulously, spending an enormous amount of time digging into parts diagrams, and have yet to find the answer. I'm well within the limits of a DRW but over the limits of a SRW. Limits that happen to be directly tied to only suspension and tires, it seems, both of which have been upgraded accordingly. The only advantage to a DRW for me at this time would be if I were getting anywhere close to the 9000# "weak link" of the wheels (4500# x2) for the RAW.

Identical engine (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical transmission (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical transfer case (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical axles (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)* Not True
- Identical brakes (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) Not True
- Identical front suspension (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)

Go to the body builder guide for Ford and you can find tables to support what I disagree with.

DRW gearing is 3.73. You can't get that on a SRW.

I am giving numbers for my 2012 Ford. I did a lot of research before I bought.
Other manufactures may differ, I am referring to Ford to dispute your claims.

And you can clearly see in my sig that I drive a GM. They use the same 3.73 gears for all Duramax engines - SRW or DRW. You can confirm here:

https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/Chevrolet/northamerica/usa/nscwebsite/en/Home/Vehicles/Commercial/02_PDFs/MY15-Trailering-Guide.pdf

So your issue isn't an issue of SRW vs DRW, it's an issue with Ford's specs.

First, I don't have an issue, I have the correct truck for my trailer and am within ALL of my tow ratings without having to modify anything.
Second, you need to state that in your quotes as I did, what brand you are referring to, instead of making blanket statements....

[dedmiston]

lincster wrote:
Where is the dead horse getting beat dedmiston???? LOL

Hey man, leave me outta this. The only reason I joined the Dually Club was so you wouldn't give me grief for my numbers.

:B

[n0arp]

lincster wrote:

jshupe wrote:

tinner12002 wrote:

joebedford wrote:
@jshupe: you're right but we're looking at different numbers.

I assumed that rig would have a GVWR of 21K but it's only 19.5K so he's only 3500 over max tow rating.

Its just a matter of time before towing over your trucks rating will start to show up on equipment failures, tranny, rear axle or more. Those ratings are there for a reason, not just #s to look at and say ah those are just there for ***** and giggles. Everyone just needs to do what their pocketbook can afford and what they feel comfortable with.

-

*Rear axles on a dually have different hubs and deeper rotors on the end. Still an AAM 11.5 with identical gearing. AAM rates both for 10900#.
Identical engine (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical transmission (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical transfer case (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical axles (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)*
- Identical brakes (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Identical front suspension (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)
- Different wheels and tires**
- Different rear suspension***

**Wheels on my truck have a 4500# rating. Tires a 4950# rating. Factory had 3150#.
***My rear suspension has been completely upgraded to what is considered an upgrade for DRW trucks

What exact components are going to fail? Please tell me how my engine, transmission, and rear axle are suddenly going to fail due to a door sticker. I researched this meticulously, spending an enormous amount of time digging into parts diagrams, and have yet to find the answer. I'm well within the limits of a DRW but over the limits of a SRW. Limits that happen to be directly tied to only suspension and tires, it seems, both of which have been upgraded accordingly. The only advantage to a DRW for me at this time would be if I were getting anywhere close to the 9000# "weak link" of the wheels (4500# x2) for the RAW.

Identical engine (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical transmission (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical transfer case (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) True
- Identical axles (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)* Not True
- Identical brakes (can be confirmed by replacement part #s) Not True
- Identical front suspension (can be confirmed by replacement part #s)

Go to the body builder guide for Ford and you can find tables to support what I disagree with.

DRW gearing is 3.73. You can't get that on a SRW.

I am giving numbers for my 2012 Ford. I did a lot of research before I bought.
Other manufactures may differ, I am referring to Ford to dispute your claims.

And you can clearly see in my sig that I drive a GM. They use the same 3.73 gears for all Duramax engines - SRW or DRW. You can confirm here:

https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/Chevrolet/northamerica/usa/nscwebsite/en/Home/Vehicles/Commercial/02_PDFs/MY15-Trailering-Guide.pdf

So your issue isn't an issue of SRW vs DRW, it's an issue with Ford's specs.