Electric Brake Performance Issues

[LarryDSLA]

I recently changed the brake pads (12" X 2" 6K Axles) on my 2007 Cedar Creek Fifth Wheel trailer and adjusted as per manufacturer recommendations but the brakes are now week. Prior to the change, I could hold the manual slide and attempt to pull off and the trailer wouldn't move but now the trailer will move with some drag. I have approximately 50% of braking capacity that I had prior to the change of pads. I am using the 2011, F-250 integrated controller that came from the factory. What would you suggest I check and/or do from this point?
I tried listening for the magnets pulling into the inner drums but only heard humming at each wheel. The wheels were static and not free spinning at the time of this observation. Do the wheels need to be in rotation before hearing the magnets actually engaging with the drums or should I have heard them hit the inner surface even in a static situation?
1) I re-inspected and compared before and after photos taken in the duration of this task to verify all parts were re-installed correctly.
2) I re-adjusted the tension (more drag) on the brakes but I am not comfortable with the latest adjustment but it did increase braking slightly but not where they should be. My concern is they will run hot with the current tension.

2011 Ford Super Duty F-250
2007 Cedar Creek Fifth Wheel Travel Trailer 34RLTS

[LarryDSLA]

Thank you. I readjusted and will check them again after my next trip.

[Vulcaneer]

Larry. Now that you have your brakes fully seated to the drums, you might want to go back and re-adjust them again. Because once you have worn off the high spots on the shoes, the brake adjustment is now less than it should be for full travel. Your shoes are a bit thinner than they were on your first adjustment. So that initial break in wear needs to be compensated by adjusting out a little more.

[LarryDSLA]

Update...I worked through the break-in procedure as recommended by a previous post and the Lippert recommendations were the same as described. After about 30 minutes working through this procedure, the brakes now feel normal. Thanks again for all of the responses as this proved to be very helpful.

Larry

[LarryDSLA]

Thanks to all who responded and I apologize for the confusion on the pads vs. shoes. All of my road vehichles have pads and that's what I normally work with and mis-stated pads for shoes. Very helpful information and the manufacturer recommendations were as stated in one of the posts as too adjust to a tight tension and then back off to a slight drag. I had a chance yesterday to free spin each wheel and the brake functions seem to work correctly. I also tested my voltage to the magnets from the controller as well as ohming the magnets and all checks passed and were in the correct ranges. The only thing I haven't had a chance to do is to drive the trailer and set the shoes. I will do that over the weekend and post my results. Again, very grateful for the responses and very helpful information. Still learning the electric brake systems. Thanks, Larry

[LarryDSLA]

Thanks to all who responded and I apologize for the confusion on the pads vs. shoes. All of my road vehichles have pads and that's what I normally work with and mis-stated pads for shoes. Very helpful information and the manufacturer recommendations were as stated in one of the posts as too adjust to a tight tension and then back off to a slight drag. I had a chance yesterday to free spin each wheel and the brake functions seem to work correctly. I also tested my voltage to the magnets from the controller as well as ohming the magnets and all checks passed and were in the correct ranges. The only thing I haven't had a chance to do is to drive the trailer and set the shoes. I will do that over the weekend and post my results.

Again, very grateful for the responses and very helpful information. Still learning the electric brake systems.

Thanks,

Larry

[MC9]

You'll be surprised how hot your drums get during the breaking in process.

[lakeside013104]

I just recieved a new 2013 Bighorn. The manual tells how to "brake in" the new brake shoes. It says to drive 40 mph and use only the brake controler to slow the unit down to 20 mph. It says to complete this exercise about 20 times along with driving for a short distance between episodes so that the brake shoes / drums will cool corectly. The manual indicates it takes this amount of "brake in" peroid before shoes and drums mate up for 100% braking efficency. Good luck. Keep us posted.

Lakeside

[Charlie_D_]

Had the same problem after replacing brake shoes. I was getting poor connection between the supply wires and the new magnets.

[time2roll]

5 amps would be high IMO and I would be inspecting the magnet for excessive wear or short.

[Vulcaneer]

Amp spec should be 2.7 to 3.2 per wheel. Volts should be 11+ for full braking.

[sk734]

smkettner wrote:
The amp draw s/b close to 3 amps per wheel. Have you measured it? Either high or low is bad.

I assume you are experienced in drum brakes? Might be best to have a second experienced person help inspect the braking action one at a time.

Could be the shoes need to wear in a bit and this could take some time if the drums were not turned.

I have been told amps can be 3 to 5 amps per wheel. What do you call high?

[Mont_G_J]

This note was copied from Dexter Axle FAQ.

" NOTE: After replacing your brake shoes and magnets you will experience a decrease in braking performance until the components have worn into the drum and finished the burnishing process. This process requires many stops to bring the new shoe's performance back to normal. This may take more than 100 stops to finish this break-in period with stops of 20 mph decreases in speed. Please refer to the Dexter Service Manual for detailed troubleshooting instructions to further determine the cause of poor brake performance."

[time2roll]

The amp draw s/b close to 3 amps per wheel. Have you measured it? Either high or low is bad.

I assume you are experienced in drum brakes? Might be best to have a second experienced person help inspect the braking action one at a time.

Could be the shoes need to wear in a bit and this could take some time if the drums were not turned.

[Vulcaneer]

LarryDSLA wrote:
I recently changed the brake pads (12" X 2" 6K Axles) on my 2007 Cedar Creek Fifth Wheel trailer and adjusted as per manufacturer recommendations but the brakes are now week.

I have approximately 50% of braking capacity that I had prior to the change of pads.

I tried listening for the magnets pulling into the inner drums but only heard humming at each wheel. ...

the magnets actually engaging with the drums


1) I re-inspected and compared before and after photos taken in the duration of this task to verify all parts were re-installed correctly.
2) I re-adjusted the tension (more drag) on the brakes but I am not comfortable with the latest adjustment but it did increase braking slightly

Your post is very confusing. You say you changed PADS. But the describe adjusting...which you do not do with pads. And you show dimensions for SHOES (12X2). And you mention PADS again. But describe DRUMS again as well. Brakes SHOES go with DRUMS. They are adjustable. Brake PADS go with DISKS. These are not adjustable.

I think you are describing your brake shoes as pads. When they really are shoes (shaped like a half moon) or like this (0) around the hub.

It does take a few miles and stops for the brake shoes to wear in to conform correctly to the drums. Until the shoes are worn in, they will only contact on the high spots. So your braking contact will be hit and miss compromise. Best to put on some miles and about 50 or so stops. Then go back and re-adjust.

To adjust tighten the adjuster star down until the wheel gets hard to turn. Then back the star off, until the wheel turns with only a little resistance. Could be 3 or 4 clicks...or more or less.

Once your brake shoes are fully "seated" to the drums, you will get full braking. But until then, you'll get partial braking, like you are experiencing now. So what you are seeing is normal. But you have a little more to do yet with one more adjustment.