Dometic RM2652 has a 'preset factory temp control' so moving the thermistor WILL affect temps by 4*F -- 6*F overall.
Moving thermistor/clip UP results in MORE COOLING (longer cycles)
Moving thermistor/clip DOWN results in LESS COOLING (shorter cycles)
But 20*F in freezer and 60*F in food compartment.........sliding thermistor is NOT going to cure that!
Freezer temps have to get below 10*F before food compartment can beginning cooling down within range
Same whether on electric or propane then need to look at common items:
*How long have you been running it?.....takes 12 hrs min
*Level..rig reasonably level?
*Ventilation....no insulation fallen down causing air flow obstruction (outside compartment)
*Ventilation......bottom/top vent free/clear
*Thermistor.......BAD
*Cooling Unit.....internal clogs/blockages
Thermistor.....
Unplug thermistor leads from control board.....outside compartment/under cover ---P2 (top left corner)
Run fridge w/o thermistor overnight......force cools ---check temps in AM
Freezer S/B 0*F and food compartment 38*F
If not---replace thermistor
Cooling Unit>........
Check area around burner for 'yellowish powder/residue'....cracked tube...cooling unit toast
No yellow powder/residue then:
*unplug ac power cord from outlet
*remove electric element leads from control board
*plug element leads directly into outlet...energizing element
Run with element directly wired overnight.
Check temps in AM.
Freezer S/B 0*F and food compartment 38*F
If not....cooling unit obstructed...bad....replacement needed
Is it time for your medication or mine?
2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31