Full extension of landing gear making me nervous

[aviator41]

Howdy all,

We ran into a new experience this weekend. For the first time, we have set up the Heartland Oakmont on a spot that hasn't been graded close to level. In fact, we've had to extend the landing gear to their full extension in order to level the RV, even after putting a set of 4 blocks under both of the front legs. Unfortunately there are no real alternative locations at the spot. and choosing not to camp here is out of the question as we are camping in order to compete in a Regional shooting match that we've worked hard to get to all year. The only way to get it level was to do it manually. The 6 point level up wouldn't do it.

I'm assuming that being able to extend the legs fully in order to get the RV level is okay. Is there any reason why I should NOT leave the RV in this condition?

[aviator41]

Just as a follow up on my original post. I made some 12x16 landing pads using three pieces of 4x4x16 sandwiched between two pieces of 2x16x12 on top and 1 2x16x12 on bottom. Once in place under the landing gear and plastic blocks were under each of the stabilizers, the Level Up system was able to level the RV with no problems. The hand made blocks are now a permanent addition to the RV. If not needed to level the RV, they make great entry stairs!

[tdsxt51]

korbe wrote:
I get nailed for recommending this, but I have dug holes in the ground for my tires to help with very uneven sites. Of course when we leave, I fill in the holes and compact to pre-dug conditions.

Really good idea; I probably never would have thought of that.

[Cummins12V98]

I built these blocks out of 7 ply solid core Douglas Fir plywood.

The larger ones weigh 12.3 lbs and are 10x10x16 with two 3/4" dividers inside

The smaller ones are 10x10x8 high and weigh 6.0 lbs each.

So per volume the plywood boxes are lighter than solid lumber. I will also add the plywood will not crack or warp.

[avvidclif1]

larry barnhart wrote:
cummins tells about his wife adding weight to the truck and rv and then he shows how he keeps his side of the rving with adding boxes. 3/4" wood. Now when we see he buys the 2017 Ram next year he will have a good reason. Not easy to fool us rv.net fellers.

chevman

Out of curiosity I weighed one of my blocks. 6x8x12" treated wood with a screen door handle. 11 lbs. And what does the box weigh?

[Cummins12V98]

pyoung47 wrote:
If you have the front jacks far off the ground on blocks, be careful when hitching that you don't knock the blocks over as your backing into the pin. This could cause a nasty (really nasty) ding in your truck bed.

That is why I have my blocks 16" long.

[pyoung47]

If you have the front jacks far off the ground on blocks, be careful when hitching that you don't knock the blocks over as your backing into the pin. This could cause a nasty (really nasty) ding in your truck bed.

[Cummins12V98]

larry barnhart wrote:
cummins tells about his wife adding weight to the truck and rv and then he shows how he keeps his side of the rving with adding boxes. 3/4" wood. Now when we see he buys the 2017 Ram next year he will have a good reason. Not easy to fool us rv.net fellers.

chevman

Waiting on the 19's.

Gotta lighten the load somehow since she keeps adding and adding!!!

[larry_barnhart]

cummins tells about his wife adding weight to the truck and rv and then he shows how he keeps his side of the rving with adding boxes. 3/4" wood. Now when we see he buys the 2017 Ram next year he will have a good reason. Not easy to fool us rv.net fellers.

chevman

[Cummins12V98]

avvidclif1 wrote:
I just went to the local lumber supply and bought an 8' 6x8 piece of treated lumber and cut it into 12" pieces. Put a screen door handle on the ends to make them easy to carry. Heavy BUT there is no give.

That is what I am getting away from. Plywood is lighter and does not crack/check also I made mine larger.

[Cummins12V98]

Arcamper wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I made these for those conditions. 10x10x16 for the fronts and 10x10x6 for the 4 rear. I will be using them even on more level ground as it keeps the jacks shorter and more stable.

And if you stay somewhere long enough they will double as bird houses!

Yea that was a brain PHART. I will be installing some recessed D ring anchors. SoCal/AZ with Scorpions and Black Widows would not be a good thing with the holes. The holes are for using an awning metal pole to hook these and move them around. The D rings will do the same.

[avvidclif1]

I just went to the local lumber supply and bought an 8' 6x8 piece of treated lumber and cut it into 12" pieces. Put a screen door handle on the ends to make them easy to carry. Heavy BUT there is no give.

[aviator41]

Thanks for all the replies. I don't have photos, but will get some tomorrow when we arrive back in camp. I'm fabbing up some 2x12 blocks and I can use in conjunction with the plastic lego-type risers currently in service (I can't come up with the mfg name right now) so that I can provide a larger pad for the feet to rest on. We have a chance of rain during this week, so i want to spread the weight out as much as I can, just in case.

On the upside, I've receive a number of compliments on the rig and a few requests for a tour. I know Heartland gets knocked on this board a lot, but we are certainly enjoying out camper immensely!

[Arcamper]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I made these for those conditions. 10x10x16 for the fronts and 10x10x6 for the 4 rear. I will be using them even on more level ground as it keeps the jacks shorter and more stable.

And if you stay somewhere long enough they will double as bird houses!

[Cummins12V98]

I made these for those conditions. 10x10x16 for the fronts and 10x10x6 for the 4 rear. I will be using them even on more level ground as it keeps the jacks shorter and more stable.