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Hitch Advice

gillman
Explorer
Explorer
I just bought a new 5th Wheel. I have had one before and it came with an old hitch (don't recall the brand but it was nothing special). My new 5th wheel has a GVWR of 12,000 lbs - Dry Hitch of 1625. I have a 2002 Chevy 2500HD, 6'6" bed, Duramax/Allison trans. I don't want to break the bank on a new hitch but I do want something good. I was looking at this one: (anybody out there use it and have experience you can share?:

Reese Pro Series 5th Wheel Trailer Hitch w/ Square Tube Slider - Slide Bar Jaw - 15,000 lbs
Reese Universal Base Rails and Installation Kit for 5th Wheel Trailer Hitches - 10 Bolt
Part Numbers: PS30094, RP30035

It is about $600 which seems like a reasonable price.

Thanks in advance for your advice.
John and Patti
Chevy 2500 HD / Duramax/Allison
2014 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
http://www.painthorsefarm.com
45 REPLIES 45

filrupmark
Explorer
Explorer
Another vote for B&W Patriot .We had a drawtite slider for 9 years. Im not going to say anything bad it served us well. But I will say we love our Patriot. So smooth and Quiet !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
2004 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.0 Diesel, Bilstein 4600 Shocks, 16K B&W Patriot, Michelin M&S
2014 Augusta Flex AF34RS Trailair Tri Glide pinbox,
JT Strong Arms , Bridgestone R250'S, KYB Monotube Gas shocks
Finally a smooth ride !!!

usmohls2
Explorer
Explorer
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Busdriver wrote:
Just bought a B&W patroit from Tweedy's.com $399.80 very nice hitch.I think the rail kit is about $160.00. The workmanship on the hitch is second to none plus it is American made with American steel.


And you never see a dented bed with a B&W.


NEVER!

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
I don't pin my handle I use a padlock. I lock the brake away cable to the lock.

If you have a B&W 3000 B&W will send free of charge two hard plastic strips to put under each side of the hitch base in the low channel of the bed. This transfers the weight directly to the cross members.

I have read of people closing the handle of their B&W hitch but not pin it or lock it and arrived at their destination without a problem. I would not trust mine to stay closed like that.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
up2nogood wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
MFL wrote:
I have been on the road all day, so missed a lot of this thread that I posted on earlier.

I am another that said I, myself, just do a look test with my B&W. To be fair, I did the same look test with my previous hitch (not B&W), as it also had a locking pin, and a sliding bar, that was clearly visible, when closed behind the pin.

I do agree with previous poster, about not saying that no one needs to do a pull test, and I did not say that. New RVers should take every precaution. I have been pulling FWs for over 20 years, so I have a pretty good idea where, and what to look for on the hookup. My day may be coming though, especially since I got a new truck.

I am not now, but have towed over GVWR. I do not suggest to others that they should do this. But when some one says they go by RAWR, rather than GVWR on their truck, I don't condemn them for it.

I bought a B&W hitch due to all the good reviews here, and else where. I read many of the posts Cummins made, and after having the hitch, seeing for myself, I agree with him. Still the pull test is something the manufacturer recommends, so each person needs to make their own decision, on ratings, or pull tests.



Jerry


Jerry

I am glad you are happy with your hitch. I try to give good reasons for the B&W hitches based on my experience with them.

I never say not to do a pull test. I give the conditions that you need to verify "test" that IMHO make it to where I don't need to do a pull test. Based on those steps I have spelled out many times I don't need to do a pull test and others that have the same hitch and do the same exact "visual tests" agree that they don't need to do a pull test either.

I have also said I used to do a pull test with my RBW hitch because I did not trust the hitch.

I personally want all options in front of me so I can make an informed decision based on all evidence available. We are adults here, we don't need to censor information!



At this point we can agree to disagree, at least I am not hearing the fool proof quote, with the hopes that being adults as you say ,you guys have come to realize there is no such thing. It seems that you will stick to the point that a pull test is not necessary for you, thats great .

I personally don't trust any mechanical devise, being in manufacturing for over 42 years, I have seen what can happen to the best of equipment.


Sounds good, thanks!
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
rhagfo wrote:
...I have made one modification to my 16K Reese twin jaw. I removed the upward bend in the Handle, which prevents any possible contact with the pin box.


I did about the same thing, although my reason was so that I could close my Retrax cover over the hitch and clear that Reese handle. The Reese system still works fine with the shorty release handle.



BTW, this is how you make sure your Reese is latched and ready to go. You L@@K!
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
Cummins12V98 wrote:
goducks10 wrote:
As a Patriot owner I see absolutely no way the pin can come out of the jaws when hitched. If you back into the hitch so that the pin box presses on the top of the 5th hitch and the handle closes then it's secure. Pin the handle and that's it. Only way a B&W can not be hitched is if you don't pin the handle and it comes lose. That's not B&W's fault, that's owner error. I had an older Reese before the B&W and same thing on hitching. A look test when plugging in the 7 pin is all that's needed. Those that disagree with this don't own a B&W. Your pin has to be at the right elevation in the jaws to close the handle. It's a no brainer.


Thank you, thank you thank you!!!

Like I have said I don't care what others do. I have explained what I do and why. If I were the only one to do so that is my choice. But it is nice to see others agree.

Like when I was Jury Foreman and there was not enough evidence to prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that this guy was guilty. I said I would not convict and all but one went all emotional but there was this one little old lady that agreed with me. That was awesome. If they were all against me I would still hold my position.

I do a "Visual Test" same result as a pull test. I just won't repeat the obvious.

I used to do a pull test with the RBW hitch I had last. All depends on the hitch.


Well, well a weak spot! I will admit to forgetting to lock the handle of my Reese twin jaw TWICE, the first time drove a 1/4 block before remembering.
The second time I drove over 15 miles on a combination of Freeway, county roads and crossing Rail Road tracks. Wide turns tight turns stop and go, the hitch stayed latched. I have made one modification to my 16K Reese twin jaw. I removed the upward bend in the Handle, which prevents any possible contact with the pin box.

While the B&W is a fine hitch, I have concerns about single point of attachment to the frame (Ball replacement), and that basically the weight of the hitch sits on the bed floor. This has caused some deformation in newer truck beds.

BEFORE



AFTER
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
Cummins12V98 wrote:
MFL wrote:
I have been on the road all day, so missed a lot of this thread that I posted on earlier.

I am another that said I, myself, just do a look test with my B&W. To be fair, I did the same look test with my previous hitch (not B&W), as it also had a locking pin, and a sliding bar, that was clearly visible, when closed behind the pin.

I do agree with previous poster, about not saying that no one needs to do a pull test, and I did not say that. New RVers should take every precaution. I have been pulling FWs for over 20 years, so I have a pretty good idea where, and what to look for on the hookup. My day may be coming though, especially since I got a new truck.

I am not now, but have towed over GVWR. I do not suggest to others that they should do this. But when some one says they go by RAWR, rather than GVWR on their truck, I don't condemn them for it.

I bought a B&W hitch due to all the good reviews here, and else where. I read many of the posts Cummins made, and after having the hitch, seeing for myself, I agree with him. Still the pull test is something the manufacturer recommends, so each person needs to make their own decision, on ratings, or pull tests.



Jerry


Jerry

I am glad you are happy with your hitch. I try to give good reasons for the B&W hitches based on my experience with them.

I never say not to do a pull test. I give the conditions that you need to verify "test" that IMHO make it to where I don't need to do a pull test. Based on those steps I have spelled out many times I don't need to do a pull test and others that have the same hitch and do the same exact "visual tests" agree that they don't need to do a pull test either.

I have also said I used to do a pull test with my RBW hitch because I did not trust the hitch.

I personally want all options in front of me so I can make an informed decision based on all evidence available. We are adults here, we don't need to censor information!



At this point we can agree to disagree, at least I am not hearing the fool proof quote, with the hopes that being adults as you say ,you guys have come to realize there is no such thing. It seems that you will stick to the point that a pull test is not necessary for you, thats great .

I personally don't trust any mechanical devise, being in manufacturing for over 42 years, I have seen what can happen to the best of equipment.

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
MFL wrote:
I have been on the road all day, so missed a lot of this thread that I posted on earlier.

I am another that said I, myself, just do a look test with my B&W. To be fair, I did the same look test with my previous hitch (not B&W), as it also had a locking pin, and a sliding bar, that was clearly visible, when closed behind the pin.

I do agree with previous poster, about not saying that no one needs to do a pull test, and I did not say that. New RVers should take every precaution. I have been pulling FWs for over 20 years, so I have a pretty good idea where, and what to look for on the hookup. My day may be coming though, especially since I got a new truck.

I am not now, but have towed over GVWR. I do not suggest to others that they should do this. But when some one says they go by RAWR, rather than GVWR on their truck, I don't condemn them for it.

I bought a B&W hitch due to all the good reviews here, and else where. I read many of the posts Cummins made, and after having the hitch, seeing for myself, I agree with him. Still the pull test is something the manufacturer recommends, so each person needs to make their own decision, on ratings, or pull tests.



Jerry


Jerry

I am glad you are happy with your hitch. I try to give good reasons for the B&W hitches based on my experience with them.

I never say not to do a pull test. I give the conditions that you need to verify "test" that IMHO make it to where I don't need to do a pull test. Based on those steps I have spelled out many times I don't need to do a pull test and others that have the same hitch and do the same exact "visual tests" agree that they don't need to do a pull test either.

I have also said I used to do a pull test with my RBW hitch because I did not trust the hitch.

I personally want all options in front of me so I can make an informed decision based on all evidence available. We are adults here, we don't need to censor information!
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
gillman wrote:
Wow. This has taken quite a change from my original question. I haven't had a chance to look at this for a few days to get input on the brands of hitches. I have another question...

I have a 2002 Chevy 2500HD shortbed. In the past (10 years ago), I pulled a 5th wheel with it and did not have a slider. Maybe I never got into a bad enough parking spot to have needed a slider. I used to drive an 18 wheeler for a living in my younger days so maybe that just helps...

I like the input on the B&W Patriot and it looks like a great hitch. However, If I really need a slider, then I guess I can get one. The issue is that a B&W slider looks a lot more expensive than just a normal Patriot (unless I have overlooked a specific model). Our new Fifth wheel (ordered - not here yet) has a curved / notched front if that helps. It is a Reflection 303.

Thoughts on that? Anyone got a B&W slider or know what B&W slider models there are out there? I like that it is made in the the U.S.A.


If you have the extended kingpin and rounded front I doubt you will need a slider.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

gillman
Explorer
Explorer
Wow. This has taken quite a change from my original question. I haven't had a chance to look at this for a few days to get input on the brands of hitches. I have another question...

I have a 2002 Chevy 2500HD shortbed. In the past (10 years ago), I pulled a 5th wheel with it and did not have a slider. Maybe I never got into a bad enough parking spot to have needed a slider. I used to drive an 18 wheeler for a living in my younger days so maybe that just helps...

I like the input on the B&W Patriot and it looks like a great hitch. However, If I really need a slider, then I guess I can get one. The issue is that a B&W slider looks a lot more expensive than just a normal Patriot (unless I have overlooked a specific model). Our new Fifth wheel (ordered - not here yet) has a curved / notched front if that helps. It is a Reflection 303.

Thoughts on that? Anyone got a B&W slider or know what B&W slider models there are out there? I like that it is made in the the U.S.A.
John and Patti
Chevy 2500 HD / Duramax/Allison
2014 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
http://www.painthorsefarm.com

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
up2nogood wrote:
MFL wrote:
I have been on the road all day, so missed a lot of this thread that I posted on earlier.

I am another that said I, myself, just do a look test with my B&W. To be fair, I did the same look test with my previous hitch (not B&W), as it also had a locking pin, and a sliding bar, that was clearly visible, when closed behind the pin.

I do agree with previous poster, about not saying that no one needs to do a pull test, and I did not say that. New RVers should take every precaution. I have been pulling FWs for over 20 years, so I have a pretty good idea where, and what to look for on the hookup. My day may be coming though, especially since I got a new truck.

I am not now, but have towed over GVWR. I do not suggest to others that they should do this. But when some one says they go by RAWR, rather than GVWR on their truck, I don't condemn them for it.

I bought a B&W hitch due to all the good reviews here, and else where. I read many of the posts Cummins made, and after having the hitch, seeing for myself, I agree with him. Still the pull test is something the manufacturer recommends, so each person needs to make their own decision, on ratings, or pull tests.


Jerry



I think some of you B & W owners seem to be missing the point here, which is no matter what hitch you have ,and do a visual check to see if the jaw is closed, well then it is either closed or not, some paint them white to make them more visual, and that the handle is locked ,well you are hooked up, this applies to any hitch.

Agreeing about being fool proof is probably something you two should share between you on a PM, and leave it off the open forum for the new comers ,and rookies . They need all the help they can get, and misleading information is not what they need.


If you reread my above post, you may have missed the point about my doing a visual check on a previous hitch, NOT B&W BRAND, as it too, was clearly locked in.

I never agreed that any hitch was fool proof. I would recommend the B&W to any new comer, due to the fact that it is a very well built hitch, that is dependable, easy to use, can be purchased at a great price, and has excellent factory support.

Forums are for discussion, and giving ones opinion openly!

Be safe, many happy travels to you,
Jerry

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
MFL wrote:
I have been on the road all day, so missed a lot of this thread that I posted on earlier.

I am another that said I, myself, just do a look test with my B&W. To be fair, I did the same look test with my previous hitch (not B&W), as it also had a locking pin, and a sliding bar, that was clearly visible, when closed behind the pin.

I do agree with previous poster, about not saying that no one needs to do a pull test, and I did not say that. New RVers should take every precaution. I have been pulling FWs for over 20 years, so I have a pretty good idea where, and what to look for on the hookup. My day may be coming though, especially since I got a new truck.

I am not now, but have towed over GVWR. I do not suggest to others that they should do this. But when some one says they go by RAWR, rather than GVWR on their truck, I don't condemn them for it.

I bought a B&W hitch due to all the good reviews here, and else where. I read many of the posts Cummins made, and after having the hitch, seeing for myself, I agree with him. Still the pull test is something the manufacturer recommends, so each person needs to make their own decision, on ratings, or pull tests.


Jerry



I think some of you B & W owners seem to be missing the point here, which is no matter what hitch you have ,and do a visual check to see if the jaw is closed, well then it is either closed or not, some paint them white to make them more visual, and that the handle is locked ,well you are hooked up, this applies to any hitch.

Agreeing about being fool proof is probably something you two should share between you on a PM, and leave it off the open forum for the new comers ,and rookies . They need all the help they can get, and misleading information is not what they need.

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
I have been on the road all day, so missed a lot of this thread that I posted on earlier.

I am another that said I, myself, just do a look test with my B&W. To be fair, I did the same look test with my previous hitch (not B&W), as it also had a locking pin, and a sliding bar, that was clearly visible, when closed behind the pin.

I do agree with previous poster, about not saying that no one needs to do a pull test, and I did not say that. New RVers should take every precaution. I have been pulling FWs for over 20 years, so I have a pretty good idea where, and what to look for on the hookup. My day may be coming though, especially since I got a new truck.

I am not now, but have towed over GVWR. I do not suggest to others that they should do this. But when some one says they go by RAWR, rather than GVWR on their truck, I don't condemn them for it.

I bought a B&W hitch due to all the good reviews here, and else where. I read many of the posts Cummins made, and after having the hitch, seeing for myself, I agree with him. Still the pull test is something the manufacturer recommends, so each person needs to make their own decision, on ratings, or pull tests.



Jerry

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
bpounds wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
If I do drop the RV on my truck It will be my fault for sure. You can laugh I won't mind.


If you did that, you might be considered a fool.

Cummins12V98 wrote:
The only time I have heard of a B&W/dropped RV situation was when the guy pinned his handle open backed under the RV DID NOT LOOK AT THE JAWS and drove ahead and bam!


I think we could agree that this guy did a foolish thing, no?

Therefore, NOT foolproof.

Every hitch out there is safe if used correctly. And none of them are foolproof. Fools are just too innovative for that.



Well said, hopefully it will be heeded