Hitch Advice

[gillman]

I just bought a new 5th Wheel. I have had one before and it came with an old hitch (don't recall the brand but it was nothing special). My new 5th wheel has a GVWR of 12,000 lbs - Dry Hitch of 1625. I have a 2002 Chevy 2500HD, 6'6" bed, Duramax/Allison trans. I don't want to break the bank on a new hitch but I do want something good. I was looking at this one: (anybody out there use it and have experience you can share?:

Reese Pro Series 5th Wheel Trailer Hitch w/ Square Tube Slider - Slide Bar Jaw - 15,000 lbs
Reese Universal Base Rails and Installation Kit for 5th Wheel Trailer Hitches - 10 Bolt
Part Numbers: PS30094, RP30035

It is about $600 which seems like a reasonable price.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

[cummins2014]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

up2nogood wrote:

Javi1 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Javi1 wrote:
I'll respect your right NOT to do a pull test... but I won't NOT laugh when you finally drop the trailer... 😄

If I do drop the RV on my truck It will be my fault for sure. You can laugh I won't mind.

The only time I have heard of a B&W/dropped RV situation was when the guy pinned his handle open backed under the RV DID NOT LOOK AT THE JAWS and drove ahead and bam!

I never pin my handle open and always look at the jaws. I lock handle closed with break away cable attached to said lock.

And doing a pull test is as easy as pinning the lever, plugging in the cord, stepping back into the truck, put the transmission into D, apply the brake controller, take your foot off the brake pedal, lightly tap the accelerator.... if the hitch don't separate.. take your foot off the accelerator, put your foot on the brake pedal, turn loose of the paddle on the BC, put the tranny back in park, get out of truck and finish your routine.

Got used to doing it years ago with 18 wheelers and just don't mind doing it now.

Took a lot longer to type it than to do it... 😄

This is a discussion that has been going on for awhile now, there are a lot of new comers ,and ones just starting out towing fifth wheels, and the last thing in the world they need to hear from us seasoned rvers is this or that is fool proof ,it is a recipe for disaster . There are steps to follow, and they should be shared ,but to claim foolproof when there is no such thing is just bad news.

If you are a seasoned veteran here, and chose to skip some procedures ,or practices that insure safety that is your business as long as it does not affect the rest, but has no place on an open forum. Everyone should be encouraged to follow the guidelines of hitching, and not be told there is no need because a product is FOOL PROOF .

That was a good civil response! I do explain what I do and why. I think there are people that can understand a basic mechanical device and treat it as one.

Just the act of doing a pull test can have damaging results if not done properly also.

Thanks again!

And hopefully get this fool proof nonsense off the forum. I am fully aware of a hitch being a mechanical device, which IMO makes it even more important to NOT skip hitching procedures. and will repeat no problem at doing whatever you chose , but some practices need to be kept to ones self . I am all for bragging about the quality of a good proven product, but it should be left at that

You could make argument for or against a pull test. Never have heard of anyone damaging anything, but sure it could happen, these trucks have a lot of power, but there is a guarantee if you don't do one , and happen to do one of the many things that can cause a drop, case in point locking your handle open on a B & W hitch and driving off .

[bpounds]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
If I do drop the RV on my truck It will be my fault for sure. You can laugh I won't mind.

If you did that, you might be considered a fool.

Cummins12V98 wrote:
The only time I have heard of a B&W/dropped RV situation was when the guy pinned his handle open backed under the RV DID NOT LOOK AT THE JAWS and drove ahead and bam!

I think we could agree that this guy did a foolish thing, no?

Therefore, NOT foolproof.

Every hitch out there is safe if used correctly. And none of them are foolproof. Fools are just too innovative for that.

[Cummins12V98]

up2nogood wrote:

Javi1 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Javi1 wrote:
I'll respect your right NOT to do a pull test... but I won't NOT laugh when you finally drop the trailer... 😄

If I do drop the RV on my truck It will be my fault for sure. You can laugh I won't mind.

The only time I have heard of a B&W/dropped RV situation was when the guy pinned his handle open backed under the RV DID NOT LOOK AT THE JAWS and drove ahead and bam!

I never pin my handle open and always look at the jaws. I lock handle closed with break away cable attached to said lock.

And doing a pull test is as easy as pinning the lever, plugging in the cord, stepping back into the truck, put the transmission into D, apply the brake controller, take your foot off the brake pedal, lightly tap the accelerator.... if the hitch don't separate.. take your foot off the accelerator, put your foot on the brake pedal, turn loose of the paddle on the BC, put the tranny back in park, get out of truck and finish your routine.

Got used to doing it years ago with 18 wheelers and just don't mind doing it now.

Took a lot longer to type it than to do it... 😄

This is a discussion that has been going on for awhile now, there are a lot of new comers ,and ones just starting out towing fifth wheels, and the last thing in the world they need to hear from us seasoned rvers is this or that is fool proof ,it is a recipe for disaster . There are steps to follow, and they should be shared ,but to claim foolproof when there is no such thing is just bad news.

If you are a seasoned veteran here, and chose to skip some procedures ,or practices that insure safety that is your business as long as it does not affect the rest, but has no place on an open forum. Everyone should be encouraged to follow the guidelines of hitching, and not be told there is no need because a product is FOOL PROOF .

That was a good civil response! I do explain what I do and why. I think there are people that can understand a basic mechanical device and treat it as one.

Just the act of doing a pull test can have damaging results if not done properly also.

Thanks again!

[cummins2014]

Javi1 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Javi1 wrote:
I'll respect your right NOT to do a pull test... but I won't NOT laugh when you finally drop the trailer... 😄

If I do drop the RV on my truck It will be my fault for sure. You can laugh I won't mind.

The only time I have heard of a B&W/dropped RV situation was when the guy pinned his handle open backed under the RV DID NOT LOOK AT THE JAWS and drove ahead and bam!

I never pin my handle open and always look at the jaws. I lock handle closed with break away cable attached to said lock.

And doing a pull test is as easy as pinning the lever, plugging in the cord, stepping back into the truck, put the transmission into D, apply the brake controller, take your foot off the brake pedal, lightly tap the accelerator.... if the hitch don't separate.. take your foot off the accelerator, put your foot on the brake pedal, turn loose of the paddle on the BC, put the tranny back in park, get out of truck and finish your routine.

Got used to doing it years ago with 18 wheelers and just don't mind doing it now.

Took a lot longer to type it than to do it... 😄

This is a discussion that has been going on for awhile now, there are a lot of new comers ,and ones just starting out towing fifth wheels, and the last thing in the world they need to hear from us seasoned rvers is this or that is fool proof ,it is a recipe for disaster . There are steps to follow, and they should be shared ,but to claim foolproof when there is no such thing is just bad news.

If you are a seasoned veteran here, and chose to skip some procedures ,or practices that insure safety that is your business as long as it does not affect the rest, but has no place on an open forum. Everyone should be encouraged to follow the guidelines of hitching, and not be told there is no need because a product is FOOL PROOF .

[Javi1]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Javi1 wrote:
I'll respect your right NOT to do a pull test... but I won't NOT laugh when you finally drop the trailer... 😄

If I do drop the RV on my truck It will be my fault for sure. You can laugh I won't mind.

The only time I have heard of a B&W/dropped RV situation was when the guy pinned his handle open backed under the RV DID NOT LOOK AT THE JAWS and drove ahead and bam!

I never pin my handle open and always look at the jaws. I lock handle closed with break away cable attached to said lock.

And doing a pull test is as easy as pinning the lever, plugging in the cord, stepping back into the truck, put the transmission into D, apply the brake controller, take your foot off the brake pedal, lightly tap the accelerator.... if the hitch don't separate.. take your foot off the accelerator, put your foot on the brake pedal, turn loose of the paddle on the BC, put the tranny back in park, get out of truck and finish your routine.

Got used to doing it years ago with 18 wheelers and just don't mind doing it now.

Took a lot longer to type it than to do it... 😄

[Cummins12V98]

Javi1 wrote:
I'll respect your right NOT to do a pull test... but I won't NOT laugh when you finally drop the trailer... 😄

If I do drop the RV on my truck It will be my fault for sure. You can laugh I won't mind.

The only time I have heard of a B&W/dropped RV situation was when the guy pinned his handle open backed under the RV DID NOT LOOK AT THE JAWS and drove ahead and bam!

I never pin my handle open and always look at the jaws. I lock handle closed with break away cable attached to said lock.

[Cummins12V98]

goducks10 wrote:
As a Patriot owner I see absolutely no way the pin can come out of the jaws when hitched. If you back into the hitch so that the pin box presses on the top of the 5th hitch and the handle closes then it's secure. Pin the handle and that's it. Only way a B&W can not be hitched is if you don't pin the handle and it comes lose. That's not B&W's fault, that's owner error. I had an older Reese before the B&W and same thing on hitching. A look test when plugging in the 7 pin is all that's needed. Those that disagree with this don't own a B&W. Your pin has to be at the right elevation in the jaws to close the handle. It's a no brainer.

Thank you, thank you thank you!!!

Like I have said I don't care what others do. I have explained what I do and why. If I were the only one to do so that is my choice. But it is nice to see others agree.

Like when I was Jury Foreman and there was not enough evidence to prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that this guy was guilty. I said I would not convict and all but one went all emotional but there was this one little old lady that agreed with me. That was awesome. If they were all against me I would still hold my position.

I do a "Visual Test" same result as a pull test. I just won't repeat the obvious.

I used to do a pull test with the RBW hitch I had last. All depends on the hitch.

[goducks10]

As a Patriot owner I see absolutely no way the pin can come out of the jaws when hitched. If you back into the hitch so that the pin box presses on the top of the 5th hitch and the handle closes then it's secure. Pin the handle and that's it. Only way a B&W can not be hitched is if you don't pin the handle and it comes lose. That's not B&W's fault, that's owner error. I had an older Reese before the B&W and same thing on hitching. A look test when plugging in the 7 pin is all that's needed. Those that disagree with this don't own a B&W. Your pin has to be at the right elevation in the jaws to close the handle. It's a no brainer.

[Javi1]

I'll respect your right NOT to do a pull test... but I won't NOT laugh when you finally drop the trailer... 😄

[JIMNLIN]

Every hitch makers web I've been on also recommend a tug or pull test .... they do so for a reason and has nothing to do with what brand someone else owns or any CYA on their part.

Your recommendations that others with a B&W can ignore their hook up procedures is reckless at best and just your opinion.

[Cummins12V98]

JIMNLIN wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Nice to see other of the same opinion. I was ripped many times for saying "no pull test needed" and "fool proof" about the Companion.

Nice to see some common sense!

Common sense ?? LOL
has nothing to do with not doing a pull test even when B&W recommends doing so.

It's called CYA just like McDonalds has HOT on a coffee cup.

My pull test is using my brain and the eyes attached to it. If you want to do something that is a complete waste of time have at it. Several on here with B&W's do agree. So I am going to take a guess, you have another brand?

[sljkansas]

B&W now makes a manual slider, which uses the head piece of their regular hitch. Best of both worlds.

[cummins2014]

JIMNLIN wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Nice to see other of the same opinion. I was ripped many times for saying "no pull test needed" and "fool proof" about the Companion.

Nice to see some common sense!

Common sense ?? LOL
has nothing to do with not doing a pull test even when B&W recommends doing so.

Couldn't agree more, pretty misleading , and hardly foolproof

[JIMNLIN]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Nice to see other of the same opinion. I was ripped many times for saying "no pull test needed" and "fool proof" about the Companion.

Nice to see some common sense!

Common sense ?? LOL
has nothing to do with not doing a pull test even when B&W recommends doing so.

[diazr2]

handsome51 wrote:
I know you said you did not want to break the bank. It sounds like you will have a 5th wheel for a while. Plus you bought a new one. I bought my first 5th wheel in Sept 2006. Never had one before. Had a cabover camper for 23 years. I listened to a friend who had a regular Reese hitch till January 2006. He bought a 25k airsafe hitch with a Holland/Binkley Head. He pulls his center console boat behind the 5th wheel to the lake. He said he forgot and left a soap bottle on the kitchen counter when they left to go home one time. When he got home the soap bottle was still on the counter where he left it. I spent the money for the 25k airsafe hitch with the Holland/Binkley head. It only hurts when you write the check. But I am glad I did. I have a 36 foot Carriage 5th wheel and I don't even know it is back their. It just floats going down the road. Their is no stress on the 5th wheel or the truck. Even the wife said the first time, that you don't even feel the 5th wheel back their. Wife had some nick nacks on a end table at the back of the trailer. You know that behind the wheels is the roughest riding. At the end of the day the nick nacks were still on the end table and did not move. Now if you slam on the brakes that is a different story. On our first trip the first thing I did was see if the dishes in the cabinet had moved. Nothing moved. I know the hitch is a lot of money. But you paid a lot of money for your 5th wheel. Like I said it only hurts as you write the check out.

Have you ever traveled the Alcan Highway? I wonder if your hitch would have smoothed that road out? Reason I ask I travel it once and would like to do it again but the perma frost and heaves in the road are devastating on a 5er. I wonder if your hitch would smooth that out.. It would certainly be worth the extra money not to have to have the axles straightened, now that gets expensive.