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Insulating the TH floor...

roller183
Explorer
Explorer
Have been giving thought to insulating the Toy hauler floor and tanks. I am trying to find out where I can buy the plastic cardboard material that is used similar to political signs in sheets of 4x8 like plywood.

Looks like a clear install from truss to truss. I suppose I'd use self tapping 1/4 " screws with fender washers etc to hold it up ..

Any idea's? Not keen on the spray foam, as it does not allow for any easy removal if necessary.

Would like to go up to colder weather during this time of year and not worry too much about tanks freezing.
2007 Forest River Sierra Sport F 40 SPTS 40' 3 axle TH.
2013 RAM Mega cab Dually 6spd.auto gray
9 REPLIES 9

roller183
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for all the great ideas..One of the reasons I like this BB is the experience of all the members..:)

Ed
2007 Forest River Sierra Sport F 40 SPTS 40' 3 axle TH.
2013 RAM Mega cab Dually 6spd.auto gray

IOWASTROKER
Explorer
Explorer
Welding is easier...until you have to pull a panel. I suspect a grinder would cut the weld ...but then it looks like something an RV MFG might try:))))))))))))))))) My DeWalt cordless put my self-tapper screws in easily...and it looks awesome. A little overkill, but I caulked each piece where there is the 3/4 inch raised lap. No mouse is going to get inside my TH:)))))))

SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Explorer
Fishbreath wrote:
With regards to the above post stating that galvanized steel can be welded.....
Although it can be welded, it is a task that should never be performed. Welding galvanized steel puts off a very deadly fume that can make you very sick.

Just FYI

Bill
Bill, thank you for voicing your concern about welding of galvanized material. ๐Ÿ™‚

I am a professional, certified structural welder. I weld for my living. I weld galvanized steel ALOT, and have been doing so for several years. One of my certifications, AWS D-1.3, is specifically for welding light gauge galvanized and primer coated structural members (studs, tracks, joists, clips, etc).

Yes, the fumes can be dangerous when exposed on a long term basis, and they can make you feel sick even on a short term basis. There are very easy safety precautions to take when welding galvanized material....

Galvanized is best welded outdoors, whenever possible. Keep your face upwind of the weld, and/or wear an inexensive and easy to use 3M respirator mask under your hood, with the pink P-series filters, and all is well. ๐Ÿ™‚

If welding galvanized insdoors in a shop, use a fan to direct the smoke away from yourself and leave doors and windows open, wherever possible, if there is no fume extracting upduct ventilation system in place. OSHA will require the shop to provide upduct ventilation at each welding station, if the shop is performing galvanized welding, on a production/manufacturing basis.

Also, for best results welding galvanized steel, either use E71T-GS or E71T-11 class flux-cored self-shielded wire, or 6011 or 6013 stick electrode. Using ER70S-x solid mig wire and shielding gas sometimes results in porosity in the weld.
01 International 4800 4x4 CrewCab DT466E Allison MD3060
69Bronco 86Samurai 85ATC250R 89CR500
98Ranger 96Tacoma
20' BigTex flatbed
8' truck camper, 14' Aristocrat TT
73 Kona 17' ski boat & Mercury 1150TB
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6 285 BFG AT 4.56 & LockRite rear

Fishbreath
Explorer II
Explorer II
With regards to the above post stating that galvanized steel can be welded.....
Although it can be welded, it is a task that should never be performed. Welding galvanized steel puts off a very deadly fume that can make you very sick.

Just FYI

Bill

SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer
Explorer
I would go with galvanized steel sheet. Mice can't chew through it, nothing can tear it, it doesn't soak with water, doesn't warp, split or rot and it can be welded in, rather than screwed, which is much faster and easier for installation.
01 International 4800 4x4 CrewCab DT466E Allison MD3060
69Bronco 86Samurai 85ATC250R 89CR500
98Ranger 96Tacoma
20' BigTex flatbed
8' truck camper, 14' Aristocrat TT
73 Kona 17' ski boat & Mercury 1150TB
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6 285 BFG AT 4.56 & LockRite rear

camp-n-family
Explorer
Explorer
Check out the local sign shop. They may even have a stash of old signs that you could use.
'17 Ram 2500 Crewcab Laramie CTD
'13 Keystone Bullet Premier 310BHPR
Hitched by Hensley

dalen
Explorer
Explorer
you can buy the underbelly plastic at this website
http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/products.php?product_id=2212

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

The material is called Coroplast.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

IOWASTROKER
Explorer
Explorer
Cut 1.5 inch styrofoam for sides of I-beam, then 1.5 inch sheets to sit on bottom edge of Ibeam from side-to-side. Threw the black belly sheets away and used ProPanel II steel roofing with fender washers and self-tapping screws. Removed the spare tire and its frame work to justify the added weight of steel. Roofing weighed less:))))

BUT: on my new Cyclone 3950...had to relocated wiring, water lines, gas lines, etc.etc upwards in order to accommadate the 1.5 sheets across the bottom.

Drilled hole in bottom of kitchen sink and dropped a thermostat sensor so I can monitor the actual temp of my "new basement". It is always8-10 degrees warmer than coach AND my floors are warm. Still NOT happy with my digital thermostat for my furnace. 5-8 degrees drop before furnace decides to "fire up" A true PITA when snowmobiling in MI.